For those of you that have changed their oil. How easy/hard is it? Do you have to remove anything? Also, did you have to add any and how much between changes?

If you respond, please let me know what brand and vescosity you went with.

Thanks

 

Hey there cooper

YOU MUST USE 5W30 according to Ford. They even published a TSB about it. Failure to do so may void warrenty on your engine. There are other threads on this site that talk about that. Also the Ford filter has a anti-siphon valve which some others do not. Failure to use the right filter will cause valve noise on start up. I believe it is an 820S filter--Motorcraft. The "S" is for the siphon valve. Do not use Frams as they are known to cause this problem. Again there is plenty written here in other areas. It would be best to do a search if you need to know more.

I personnaly use Jiffy Lube and Mobil 1 oil. I've never had a problem with their filters (yet).

When filling it it should take 6 maybe 6 1/2 quarts. Fill it to the middle of the dip stick range, again that's been talked about here also. The top level is the max not desired.

Hope this helps---Bob

PS The above is for a 5.4 liter engine with tow package (oil cooler)

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99 EB Expedition 5.4L with all the perks,3.73 LS,Heated Mirrors and Seats. Everything but sun-roof. Rhino Step Bar, Ford Bug Shield,More to come...




[This message has been edited by ExpyBob (edited 04-19-2000).]

 

Changing your own oil and filter is actually quite simple.

I agree with ExpyBob...avoid the FRAM filters (in the F-150s). I experienced valve chatter in my 98 5.4L...as soon as I removed the FRAM filter and reinstalled a Motorcraft filter..everything was fine.

I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30 oil and a Motorcraft FL-820s filter in my 2000 5.4L. Actually..the S stands for silicone valve. It retains flexibility and seals better than the plastic valve used in the FRAM filter.

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99

 

This may seem like a dumb question, but if you change your own oil, how could you prove that it was changed at the correct intervals during the warrantee period?

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2000 F-150 XLT SC 4x4

• 4.6L
• 5-Speed Manual
• Deep Wedgewood Blue
• Dark Graphite Cloth Interior
• Single CD Stereo
• Sliding Rear Window
• Remote Keyless Entry

Pics: www.bigfoot.com/~trelease

 

Save your receipts and keep a very good log book. At least thats what the dealer told me.

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The vehicle above is one of many. Try refreshing. It goes by random but the Expy is exactly like mine.
99 EB Expedition 5.4L, Dark Toreador Red with all the perks,3.73 LS,Heated Mirrors and Seats. Everything but sun-roof. Rhino Step Bar, Ford Bug Shield,Even the hitch propeller, More to come...




[This message has been edited by ExpyBob (edited 04-20-2000).]

 

A couple things.
First, to answer the original thread question, the oil change is a little easier than a japanese car...But not much. The placement of the Oil Filter is obstructed badly by the front drive axle on the 4x4. So, much so that I am considering a filter relocation kit. With the anti-siphon valve filters, it seems like it will be important not to significantly change the height of the filter. It is still very much a do it yourself job. I think changing your own oil doesn't save you a whole lot of money; but getting into your hood and under your front end every 3000-5000 miles is a very good thing.

Second, Recordkeeping. I strongly agree that it is a good idea and is actually rewarding to keep a good log. (My neighbor returned a 6 year old radiator for full credit refund once by pulling the receipt out of his log book.) I use a regular school type notebook and divide it into sections. First is the "Log" all events go in here, line by line, by mileage at the event. From a fill-up and MPG calc to warranty work, and of course all owner maintenance. Other sections have receipts for dealer warranty work, parts & accessories, and maintenance items respectively. All neatly placed into clear sheet protectors. The notebook fits easily into the driver door map pocket.
But the burden of proof regarding failed maintenance (as I understand the law) rests on the dealer. While it is still wise to keep good records and of course to do the maintenance, they would have to show that Your failure caused the problem in dispute

Joe

[This message has been edited by 1stSuperCrew (edited 04-20-2000).]

 

Oooops! forgot my sig

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2001 SuperCrew 4x4 Lariat 5.4/4-spd auto, 3.55 l/s, elec xfer case, Skids, Class III tow, Stock 17"s, Oxford White/Med Graphite leather capts chairs, Rhinolined
Planned: K&N FIPK (When they get the CARB # for 2001's), Superchip

 

Hi Guys!

Just did my first (700KM/450MI) oil change over the weekend on the SCREW. I have been using Fram filters for a lot of years and never had a problem with them....BUT reading the above comments on oil filters, now I am wondering if i have done a bad thing. Is it really vital that we use a Ford oil filter, and why is it that now I should stay away from the Fram type?

Just looking for a good piece of mind I guess!


2001

 

What I have gathered from this site and the owner's manual is that the Motorcraft (a purolator product) filter has a silicone anti-drainback valve. Fram (based on which source I read) either has no such valve or makes theirs out of a rubber compound that is less effective, particularly with synthetic oils or 5W-30, depending on the post I read.

Apparently (and hopefully) the anti-drainback feature keeps the oil punp primed and maybe even some oil in the top end of the engine, both are a very good thing. I have no idea if the Fram fails to measure up in reality. I will say that the regluar shelf price of the Motorcraft filter at my run of the mill AutoZone is only $3. At these prices, I am all for letting someone else test the Fram filters over the life of their truck.

I personally used Frams my whole life and have always thought I was buying a premium product. I never had an oil circulation related problem before. Our Honda has 140,000 miles on Fram filters and conventional oil and still runs like new. But the filter is alo located very high on the engine block. I am not professing to know exactly what difference that makes. My Ford 4.0L V-6's had a super low mount filter that does not sport a valve at all. That seems to make sense to me; where would the oil drain to, if it is already at sump level?

Our trucks have the filter sort of at the middle of the block level.

So, if I were you, I'd run with motorcraft filters starting with your next oil change. 2500 miles on a Fram probably won't hurt a thing.

Just my 2 cents (Canadian )

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2001 SuperCrew 4x4 Lariat 5.4/4-spd auto, 3.55 l/s, elec xfer case, Skids, Class III tow, Stock 17"s, Oxford White/Med Graphite leather capts chairs, Rhinolined, SUPERCHIPS equipped
Planned: K&N FIPK (When they get the CARB # for 2001's)

 

Thanks for the comments SuperCrew!

I will stop by my Ford dealer tonight and pick up a case of oil filters. One more comment is that I decided to stick with a motor oil I have used for many years (Pennzoil 5W30) and wonder if you have any comments on the oil I am using. I figure that if a person does a good job in regular oil changes (every 3500KM), it shouldn't matter on weather you use a synthetic or top grade product.

Guess I just want to make the right call and look forward to everyones comments!