Logan what innercooler are you going to be running?

 

thats still up in the air. by the measurements so far, im not going to have any problems fitting the engine under the hood. once its all mocked up we can see how big of an intercooler i can go with.

 

look at the gap between the radiator and a/c condensor, I'm considering having a powerstroke innercoolers tanks widened about 6 inches so it'll clear the radiator, just an option for you unless you can find an innercooler with the tanks wider than 39 inches

 

Yes, I would love to see that diagram.

 

if you're going to do a SAS, i may be interested in your fabtech kit. i'm located in lakeland as well.

 

sorry this is off your original thread. but that is the sweetest headliner i have ever seen. in the future i plan to get some camo seat covers and having a headliner like that to go with it would be awesome. if you dont want to post how you did that in here shoot me a pm. sweet build by the way, only other diesel i could think of would be the 7.3 international but i imagine that would be wayyyyy to heavy.

 

good plan man, ill be in touch as soon as its underway and we'll get something figured out


thanks man, that was actually a wild *** idea i had one day to see if i could do headliners. the worst part of it was taking the damn thing out of the truck. it wasnt hard, just really time consuming. there isnt really any huge secret to it though. just take out your old one, remove all the plastic and metal clips and mounts for the lights and visors and whatnot. then i left the origional fabric on there and didnt mess with it at all, just sprayed WilsonArt contact cement (what we use to stick laminates onto wood cabinets) on the fabric and headliner. let it tack up for about 10 minutes and stick it down. it helps to have 2 or 3 people to help you hold it while youre sticking it down because if the fabric folds over onto itself or touches the headliner in the wrong place, that contact cement sticks and wont let go without doing some damage. get one of the little rollers that they use to put in outdoor screening from home depot (it looks like a little pizza cutter) and use it to press out any little wrinkles. in camo you cant see the wrinkles anyways so i just left them. trim the edges and youre good to go man. its not hard, it just takes time and dont get in a hurry.

 

ok, just let me know when your SAS is underway. i think i saw your truck at the lakeland mall one time, it looked really badass! soon though, it'll be even more badass.

 

Where did you get the camo stuff that you put on? I might do this with my truck.

 

thanks man, its good to get feedback on something that you work hard on ya know?


any fabric store should carry it/can get it. that pattern is RealTree Hardwoods HD. it cost about $12 for the fabric, $10 for glue and thats all i have in it haha.

 

hey Logan. I havent done this mod, id love to do it but thats not really gonna happen anytime soon.

however i can turn a wrench so if you need any help at all send me a PM and ill offer up anything you might need help with.

Im also thinking of SAS in the distant future. so if you do go that route i might need some guide lines.

And were you out at Rancho in the Pics? i blew my engine out there 2 thursday's ago.

my names Cecil hope to hear from you man

 

heyy your gonan make a Fmunnins!! also is that 12 valve or 24? also look out for the 53 code block i hear bad things about those i think they crack and there just a bad block.

 

12 valve, and thanks for the advice. we've already fixed the Killer Dowel Pin that the cummins are so popular for. The aluminum front gear housing on the 5.9 Cummins is precisely located on the front of the cast iron engine block using dowel pins. The dowel pin is about 5/16 inch diameter by 3/4inch length made of steel. During engine assembly the dowel pins are driven into holes drilled in the block such that about half their length protrudes. Matching holes in the gear housing permit a precise fit of the housing the block. Several cap screws are used to hold the housing to the block. The problem with the dowel pin occurs because the hole in the aluminum gear housing was drilled through. During engine operation vibration could cause the dowel pin to work its way out of the hole and fall into the gear case. When the dowel pin falls, it can drop right to the oil pan or land in the gear housing, causing no damage at all.



On the other hand, the pin can be caught in the camshaft gear and forced into the aluminum gear housing, breaking out a big chunk of the housing which would cause a huge oil leak and an expensive, time consuming failure.



Worst-case failure is when the dowel pin goes between the cam and crank gears, or cam and injection pump gears, breaking the gear off the camshaft. The camshaft stops rotating instantly causing valves to stop operating, leaving some valves open and some closed. The crankshaft continues to rotate for a few seconds, slamming pistons into valves, and possibly ruining block, crank, rods, cylinder head, and valve train. Almost no reusable parts in this case, a complete engine swap could be required.

 

you will definately hear from me. and yes some of those pics are from Rancho. The other woods pics are from Richloam right down the road.

and man that sucks about your engine.

 

i'd be willing to lend a hand wrenching as well. i'm more of a shade tree mechanic myself, working in parking lots, driveways, etc, it doesn't bother me. how much lift are you thinking of going w/? 10-12''? are you gonna gut the body lift as well?