Ok guys I am confused on this my truck has a heated PCV how can i do this to my truck to help with the oil?

 

There is plenty of info on that in this forum. I have to say I don't have a lot of experience with this, but from what I have read a catch can is a good initial method of finding out how big your issue is. How much oil/vapor is getting past the rings and into the CC. Once you get a feeling for that then you go from there.

 

I've decided to give the Eco-boost PCV valve a try
(Motorcraft EV289 PCV. They are only $5.90 on Amazon. Reading on the Mustang forums many are using these without catch cans and tuners are recommending them over catch cans. I'm goint to install it, keep the catch can ans see if any oil ends up in the catch can. It'll be interesting to see how it does. It seems the Eco-boost pcv valve works like the Krank vents.

 

Great, let us know if it helps. There seems to be a lot of energy being spent on catch cans for the ecoboost. Why is that? With the PCV being better you would think there would be less interest than normal, not more. Maybe there are other issues?

 

If you actually try to blow air through the pcv outlet on the driver side valve cover you can't do it. If you suck on it like a straw you can get it to flow. The pcv is an integral check valve designed into to valve cover.. The only way I can see any improvement is with a catch can on the outlet. Anything else you put after this valve cover port is just a place where oil mist will inevitably be caught, or pass by... I'm under the impression that once vac drops to zero, and your in boost, your pcv is should be closed unless crankcase pressure forced it open under boost..

That being said..
My intake was full of oil after I dropped both intake valves on cylinder 3..
You can also see I had some intake valve seating issues on that side..

 

Pics are here..

I'm pretty sure the hole in my piston was vacuuming oil from the pan through the wide open intake ports.. So it's hard to say how well my catch can worked..

 

I was looking for a catch can for my 5.4 3v and found this company and after watching this it gave me the impression that there are issues with the current PCV system used for the ecoboost. I don't know, but Craig at RX seems to think it was not designed for an FI engine.

 

Just a heads up. The Eco-boost PCV will not work on the 5.4 3v trucks.
We have a heated PCV valve and I hoped to add the Eco-Boost PCV in line
by attaching it tonthe valve cover since our PCV attaches to the intake. This was a no go as the valve cover part does not come off.

 

I've been reading about the Eco-boost PCV issues as well. This is a nice catch can. Might be time for an upgrade. $329.00 is a chunk of change though.

 

How would that RX catch can connect to a Whipple/Roots setup?

 

Just an FYI, Speedworks is NOT affiliated with RX Performance Products that designed the RX cans, what they sell are cheap made in China copies that are glued together as you can see in this one that came apart when it froze:




For any tech support or to understand any application, I would contact RX Performance themselves direct. All of theirs are made in the USA and are fully tig welded, or Elite Engineering also has applications for every Ford, the 5.4 included.

Most don't know rxspeedworks is just an ex employee selling from his home these cheap made in China knock-off's.

No engineer, not even a Automotive tech.

The OEM PCV system on the ecoboost is designed to work on a NA engine, not a turbo application, so that's why the issues with them. The 5.4 utilizes the same type, but routing would be different. If anyone wants an explanation, here is a top mount roots style Ford 4.6 or 5.4 installation:

2011 - 2014+ Ford Mustang GT 5.0L (Twin-Screw FI)
Catch Can Routing Instructions

1) Center fitting of can to barb in passenger side valve cover.
2) One outside can fitting (with check valve flowing away from can) to existing “T” that goes to 1) barb in blower at top rear of passenger side and 2) to rear valley fitting.
3) The other outside can fitting (with check valve flowing away from can) to new hole/barb location that we install in coupler just before TB.
4) Cleanside Separator. There is a hose going form air inlet tube just before TB to front of driver side valve cover. Remove hose. Cleanside Separator with OEM fitting snaps into barb at front of driver side valve cover. Then hose from Cleanside Separator to existing barb in inlet tube before TB.
5) Cap all factory barbs left open. Check all fasteners, clamps, etc., start engine and test for vacuum leaks. Also ensure no CEL.


A Turbo by nature is quite different and the intake manifold becomes pressurized with boost, so it has to be routed differently, and then a NA engine as well.

To date, it seems only BMW is doing it correctly for turbos, and that is only with the new twin turbo L6 engine where they use the valves and both IM vacuum and turbo inlet for evacuation suction.

Done properly, all of these can be routed to meet emissions compliance and retain a closed system, and every example can also be routed to provide constant evacuation at all times, and with a turbo anytime your making even slight boost no vacuum is present to evacuate the damaging compounds from the crankcase, so these periods all the water, unburnt fuel, sulfuric acid, abrasive soot and carbon particles are falling from a suspended state and accumulating in the oil and crankcase.

For a top mount, the suction is always present as the vacuum chambers of the blower are upstream of the rotors so there is constant suction to evacuate if done properly, and for a plain NA, any time you are accelerating or at WOT, no vacuum is present due to the reversion pulses form cam lobe overlap cancels out the usable vacuum. So you need to also utilize a secondary suction source to maintain constant evacuation.

Anyone needs details on routing, just ask. Or search on youtube for the "RX catchcan install" and the "real" RX has their contact info listed.

But I sure would not trust one of the chinese cheapo's speedworks is selling.

 

Oh, and there is no Craig working at RX....so not sure who you contacted.

 

The guy in the video is Tracy from RX Performance. So I got the name wrong.

So I think everyone online would like to get the right info, maybe provide a link?

If your from RX Performance it appears that not only did they steal your idea , but your YouTube videos as well.

Just did a search for RX Performance and most search's returned a Speedworks link?

 

Your correct! He is still there, but can only reach by email or phone since the speedworks knock-off's started messing up the brand, they pulled their site. rxproducts@aol.com

He is the one that designed the original.