Looking at the stainless works 1 3/4 headers and some other knock offs on eBay of same size or the standerd 1 5/8 headers looking for the biggest gains in power and torque truck is used to tow heavy loads but is only towing on 6 psi which is the 8 pound pulley I've got a 10 lb pulley once we finish the fine tuning

So just trying to what is best

Robert

 

stainlessworks FTW

OBX are ok too but gaskets and hardware would need to be upgraded....imo

dynatech if ya got really deep pockets...lol

 

We'll I totally understand the inlet restriction just wanna help lower exhaust temp, just trying to decide on header size

 

Kooks doesn't have headers for us. 1 5/8 is the better, but less common, size from what I've heard; 1 3/4 is just a touch too big apparently. Stainless Works aren't much cheaper than Dynatech. American Racing is another option, though I'd just go Stainless Works if you're okay with how much they cost. I have OBX ones with Percy's Vibelock locking header bolts and new OEM gaskets and I still think mine are leaking, even after taking those expensive measures against leaks. But I'd do them again over paying more than double for a different set.

 

We'll the stainless works are 1 3/4, I just dunno what to go with

 

Oh, you know what. 1 5/8 is probably the best size for NA, I personally don't know, but I'd bet 1 3/4 is fine, and maybe even better, for blown applications.

 

Exactly I'm just not sure what to do

 

I wouldn't worry THAT much about the size of the primaries. The 1 3/4 have to be better for your truck than for mine because of the blower, even if 1 5/8 might be slightly better.

The Stainless is the "best" kit IMO with all things considered. And it comes with a y pipe, IIRC, that can mate up to a catback without too much fuss. My OBX kit's Y pipe mated right up to my Roush SIDO catback using one piece of the factory exhaust. I'd do a full custom exhaust though with 2.5" duals and an x. OBX has 2.5" collectors and 2.5" y pipe that combine into a single 2.5" pipe to mate to the 2.5" factory exhaust. I was unwilling to throw away my $600 catback, so I kept it. Otherwise I'd be running true 2.5" duals with an h or x pipe crossover with 2 Borla mufflers. That will happen at some point, if not running 3" pipe from the y into the 3" pipe before the SIDO muffler.

Why 3" collectors, Crash? You usually want to run 2.5" dual pipe all the way back (or combine them into a single 3") to maintain low end, no?

The possible leak is a massive annoyance to me, but the 16 (or so) gauge stainless steel does project much more engine noise than thicker normal steel, so mine may or may not be leaking. I've had the "exhaust guy" at the dealership I work for tell me the same thing after listening to mine. I've gotten over it, but it's still annoying as hell not knowing for sure one way or the other.

 

We'll as far as budget there isant one except I'm not paying kooks for any cause the custom build is not worth it, if I buy any it will be stainless works the truck has a nice exhaust, very top notch custom build mandreal bent

 

What's your current exhaust set up, Robert? Like how far up the line does it start?

 

It starts from catless front exhaust to dual 2.5 all the way out mandrel bent if still have the cats but the melted my shifter cable, and it could have been very bad, long story

 

I've get some high flow converters to install, there not nearly as big as the oem ones so that should help my heat issue under the truck

 

put on a set of OBX SS LT headers on my 06 FX4 this spring.. got a tune from power hungry prof. made alot of diff. between 2 to 3 thousand RPM plus thay sound cool..

 

I have the obx catless long tubes that are dynatech knock offs and used their supplied gaskets and reused the stock studs/nuts. Zero issues. I check the nuts at oil changes to see if they get loose but none ever have.

Why pay more for the same thing.

 

Wish my experience went this well! The gaskets literally crumbled to pieces when I removed them from the packaging. Some don't like that they aren't equal-length tubing, but who cares and it makes them a hell of a lot easier to install.

Can you hear ticking when in a parking garage or going up on ramps, etc? I can just hear a lot more engine noise than before. I am really **** with this kind of thing though . . .