whipple blower ???
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whipple blower ???
so, what will i need...
2006 f150 5.4 3 valve FX4
plan on building a motor(no corner cutting) good everything.
looking for around 750 HP. i know what i need for the motor,fuel system,trans etc.
but i want a bigger blower than just the 140... from what i understand the
lightning upgrade kit(wk-200025b) will bolt up to the intake that comes with
the 06 f150 kit... i dont have a charger on my truck now, so i guess i need a
parts list of what i will need to make it work...
thanx..
2006 f150 5.4 3 valve FX4
plan on building a motor(no corner cutting) good everything.
looking for around 750 HP. i know what i need for the motor,fuel system,trans etc.
but i want a bigger blower than just the 140... from what i understand the
lightning upgrade kit(wk-200025b) will bolt up to the intake that comes with
the 06 f150 kit... i dont have a charger on my truck now, so i guess i need a
parts list of what i will need to make it work...
thanx..
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thanx for the reply crash... i talked to you on the phone about my build
a few months ago...
IF i do this, i have everything covered i just want a bigger blower, it just makes sense... lower charge temps.. cant find a kenne bell system that works, so
the whipple 3.4 is next in line to see if it can be done...
a few months ago...
IF i do this, i have everything covered i just want a bigger blower, it just makes sense... lower charge temps.. cant find a kenne bell system that works, so
the whipple 3.4 is next in line to see if it can be done...
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
thanx for the reply crash... i talked to you on the phone about my build
a few months ago...
IF i do this, i have everything covered i just want a bigger blower, it just makes sense... lower charge temps.. cant find a kenne bell system that works, so
the whipple 3.4 is next in line to see if it can be done...
a few months ago...
IF i do this, i have everything covered i just want a bigger blower, it just makes sense... lower charge temps.. cant find a kenne bell system that works, so
the whipple 3.4 is next in line to see if it can be done...
the only supercharger endorsed by Ford racing besides roush....
KB are prone to lock ups....
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From: BC, Canada
The lightning inlet elbow won't fit on a 3v charge plate. I suspect a mustang 3v would but haven't seen it done.
Also the stock Serp drive blower belt might hinder and as you new to speed the belt up somewhat and this will also speed up the rest of the AUX drive components.
Roush bridge and extended snout, 8 rib belt is te way to go = $$$$.
Also the stock Serp drive blower belt might hinder and as you new to speed the belt up somewhat and this will also speed up the rest of the AUX drive components.
Roush bridge and extended snout, 8 rib belt is te way to go = $$$$.
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So let it be written, so let it be done!
I forgot the BIG question... Do you want to go DOHC or stick to a 2 valve? Heh!
My engine builder is responsible for this project... All aircraft quality. From stock and out of the box ProCharger to the RACE DOHC F series.
www.i-disappear.com/redrum.htm
BTW- Links to video are coming.
And about the KB... I lost respect for them when back in 99 they sold kits with a restrictor in the inlet. A urethane donut that had an ID about 2" in diameter. The 4.6 would never pull to redline. Pull that puppy out and they can scream. That and the BAP turned me off them. But then again, it is a Lysholm and does have it's merits. Plus, technology has come a long way. No intercooler as you know it, they now cool the blower itself.
There appears to no longer be an F-150 application...
http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/SC_pg/layouts/SC.htm
But look at this for comparison... Mammoth series looks bad ***.
http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/H...s/Homepage.htm
I forgot the BIG question... Do you want to go DOHC or stick to a 2 valve? Heh!
My engine builder is responsible for this project... All aircraft quality. From stock and out of the box ProCharger to the RACE DOHC F series.
www.i-disappear.com/redrum.htm
BTW- Links to video are coming.
And about the KB... I lost respect for them when back in 99 they sold kits with a restrictor in the inlet. A urethane donut that had an ID about 2" in diameter. The 4.6 would never pull to redline. Pull that puppy out and they can scream. That and the BAP turned me off them. But then again, it is a Lysholm and does have it's merits. Plus, technology has come a long way. No intercooler as you know it, they now cool the blower itself.
There appears to no longer be an F-150 application...
http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/SC_pg/layouts/SC.htm
But look at this for comparison... Mammoth series looks bad ***.
http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/H...s/Homepage.htm
a good set of rods and pistons(oliver,dimond) prob stage 2 comp blower cams,ported heads +1 SS valves,and a high end oil pump etc. is all i need to
reach my goal... and yes ill stay 3 valve unless i cant find a bigger blower that will work them maybe a set of ported trickflows...
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sounds about right... but prob go with billet rods and ARP 2000 everything..
but we will see when the time comes...thanx for your imput guys
..
crash any luck on a poss whipple 3.4 fitting a 3 valve???
but we will see when the time comes...thanx for your imput guys
..crash any luck on a poss whipple 3.4 fitting a 3 valve???
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From: North Carolina
Even if it doesn't "bolt on" you would simply need to fab up a midplate. And as already mentioned change the snout and use a Lightning/Roush style belt setup.
You mentioned you have the transmission figured out. Don't forget you will need to beef up the rear end. Stronger axles will be a must at that power level. You will need a better driveshaft, a BA5000 mass air flow meter, triple fuel pumps, 80lb injectors, larger fuel lines, possibly larger fuel rails. Or you may discover that none of the fuel upgrades are enough and you will need to switch over to a return system.
Add to the list a dual core radiator, larger brakes, traction bars, and a round of new shocks/struts and springs so you can keep the power under control.
Nothing $20,000-25000 won't take care of.
You mentioned you have the transmission figured out. Don't forget you will need to beef up the rear end. Stronger axles will be a must at that power level. You will need a better driveshaft, a BA5000 mass air flow meter, triple fuel pumps, 80lb injectors, larger fuel lines, possibly larger fuel rails. Or you may discover that none of the fuel upgrades are enough and you will need to switch over to a return system.
Add to the list a dual core radiator, larger brakes, traction bars, and a round of new shocks/struts and springs so you can keep the power under control.
Nothing $20,000-25000 won't take care of.
Last edited by twinskrewd; Oct 15, 2013 at 06:31 PM.
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Even if it doesn't "bolt on" you would simply need to fab up a midplate. And as already mentioned change the snout and use a Lightning/Roush style belt setup.
You mentioned you have the transmission figured out. Don't forget you will need to beef up the rear end. Stronger axles will be a must at that power level. You will need a better driveshaft, a BA5000 mass air flow meter, triple fuel pumps, 80lb injectors, larger fuel lines, possibly larger fuel rails. Or you may discover that none of the fuel upgrades are enough and you will need to switch over to a return system.
Add to the list a dual core radiator, larger brakes, traction bars, and a round of new shocks/struts and springs so you can keep the power under control.
Nothing $20,000-25000 won't take care of.
You mentioned you have the transmission figured out. Don't forget you will need to beef up the rear end. Stronger axles will be a must at that power level. You will need a better driveshaft, a BA5000 mass air flow meter, triple fuel pumps, 80lb injectors, larger fuel lines, possibly larger fuel rails. Or you may discover that none of the fuel upgrades are enough and you will need to switch over to a return system.
Add to the list a dual core radiator, larger brakes, traction bars, and a round of new shocks/struts and springs so you can keep the power under control.
Nothing $20,000-25000 won't take care of.
im talking 750 crank HP so around 600 RWHP guys at MMR told me i would
need 750 to make 600 at the wheels with a 4+4 and 35s
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I will explain the extent of the requirements and get specific details on what it will take to run the big blower. It was on the list for today, but I got slammed and it is first come first serve. No offense, just fair. But you will not be left hanging I can assure you. In fact, we can go over this by phone with quickness, and I will verify everything before I call Whipple. I am aware of the goal of the biggest blower that will fit, and the pulleys required to make your goals attainable.
Plan on upgrading the fuel system, and most likely going to dual 340s. Fore will dictate what parts we need to make that happen, and I will verify that we need to go return style on the rails. But even then, we may have to go with AN lines from the pumps to billet rails to support your needs. The nature of the beast on a high HP returnless system.
And gears to keep it in the powerband... The 35s will require 4.56 or 4.88 gears at least, otherwise you will be disappointed.
750 HP is a general guideline for the limits of a warrantable forged or billet internals with forged pistons. Engines vary and so will this number. But it is easy to see a 100 HP parasitic loss through an automatic, and is actually conservative. We may need to step it up a notch if you want 750 CHP because I want to be able to be well within the capability of the engine for room to play. Added insurance while tuning as well.
Strange axles and C clip eliminators will be required, as will a driveshaft loop. While you are there, consider a Detroit locker or other similar differential. And an aluminum or CF driveshaft. At 600 HP, this truck will incinerate the tires at 85 mph so traction aids are a must. The JLP long bars will transfer weight to the point of using your rear bumper as wheelie bars. Something else we may need to consider.
If you have the towing package, you SHOULD already have a dual core radiator, but I can get you one cheap, and it is OE quality.
More to come. I have been at it since 04:30.
Plan on upgrading the fuel system, and most likely going to dual 340s. Fore will dictate what parts we need to make that happen, and I will verify that we need to go return style on the rails. But even then, we may have to go with AN lines from the pumps to billet rails to support your needs. The nature of the beast on a high HP returnless system.
And gears to keep it in the powerband... The 35s will require 4.56 or 4.88 gears at least, otherwise you will be disappointed.
750 HP is a general guideline for the limits of a warrantable forged or billet internals with forged pistons. Engines vary and so will this number. But it is easy to see a 100 HP parasitic loss through an automatic, and is actually conservative. We may need to step it up a notch if you want 750 CHP because I want to be able to be well within the capability of the engine for room to play. Added insurance while tuning as well.
Strange axles and C clip eliminators will be required, as will a driveshaft loop. While you are there, consider a Detroit locker or other similar differential. And an aluminum or CF driveshaft. At 600 HP, this truck will incinerate the tires at 85 mph so traction aids are a must. The JLP long bars will transfer weight to the point of using your rear bumper as wheelie bars. Something else we may need to consider.
If you have the towing package, you SHOULD already have a dual core radiator, but I can get you one cheap, and it is OE quality.
More to come. I have been at it since 04:30.
i dont want the biggest blower that will fit,just bigger to keep charge temps down. i know i have to upgrade the fuel system, trans... drive shaft,axles will have to come later, hell i might even go procharger,even exploring water/meth injection... just weighting my options to see whats going to work
and what my budget allows...
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We'll if it were mine I'd 2.3 Whipple it with a custom 3 inch pulley and run a lower like twinskrewed is doing, that should put u around 15 psi a plenty to make 550 whp and a crap ton of torque, cooling is no issue with the raven racing gt 500 heat exchanger with dual fans, the highest temp I've ever seen was 129 degrees on a 89 degree day towing 8500 plus pounds up a 6 percent grade for 8 miles of boost, the heat exchanger works great, know maybe I'll add a better pump as twinskrewed did and lower the temps even more, Whipple has a very good intercooler, also the oem axle in 9 3/4 rear end are more than strong enough for the power u are wanting, the stock 9 3/4 will take the abuse
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From: North Carolina
Here's a Whipple 2.3 laying down big numbers on a 2v. Can only imagine what the power would be on a 3v http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...umbers-505309/
Even bigger numbers with the 2.3 http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum...ad.php?t=69798
And here's 742rwhp 722rwtq at 18psi with the 3.4 but once again it's a 2 valve. Would easily hit 850rwhp with a 3v
Even bigger numbers with the 2.3 http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum...ad.php?t=69798
And here's 742rwhp 722rwtq at 18psi with the 3.4 but once again it's a 2 valve. Would easily hit 850rwhp with a 3v
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From: North Carolina
I think this guy had his post wrong. He says 17 and 20psi but the dyno sheet shows 15 and 17psi. Also that's not typical of a twinscrew to start falling off toward redline Crash and you know it. I guarantee you that blowers starving for air. To small a throttle body and/or inlet tube.