plug gap tr6
#16
10-15-2013, 08:01 PM
Senior Member
Yes. Sometimes I get frustrated over a $15,000 failure that could have been prevented. It is what happens offline no one sees that gets to me, and I am human after all. The issue is still very much alive. But I misdirected my frustration.
I have left Troyer to JBravo to handle. It is out of my hands now anyway.
If you notice, I already apologized for being a smart ***. Not the intent, as I remember saying. I also admitted my ignorance, and that is what makes the difference in the first place. But I have no intentions of forgetting, and all of my referrals go to JDM.
I have left Troyer to JBravo to handle. It is out of my hands now anyway.
If you notice, I already apologized for being a smart ***. Not the intent, as I remember saying. I also admitted my ignorance, and that is what makes the difference in the first place. But I have no intentions of forgetting, and all of my referrals go to JDM.
Most everyone that has been around here for awhile knows of my affiliation with the Troyer's, and their business. I spent many months with them over the past 10 or so years, and was always impressed with the tuning abilities, especially with his Roush knowledge. Now that I have moved on and have no need for any of the services they offer, I will continue to respect both Mike and Anita as good friends. You dont throw away years of sharing things you enjoy, and the closeness you had.
Ironically my introduction in the SVT world was originally based on JDM's tuning, from which I quickly ran from after experiencing an unfortunate situation on my 01' Lightning. However, while I respect his contribution to the market, I chose to take my business elsewhere, which lead me to Troyer's.
I may be considered a trader to some here, but I have moved on to the Jeep and GMC side of life.
Take care.
#17
10-25-2013, 12:45 AM
Senior Member
I am runnning 16lbs in my Lightning and the TR6's gapped at 0.035" You will find guys running 20+lbs with the same plugs and gaps as well. There are a few that try the TR7's. But a majority of Lightning guys run the TR6's.
#18
11-07-2013, 03:19 AM
For my 2005 4.6 2v is an autolite 103 the correct one heat range colder copper plug I should be using with my nitrous setup? I read stock gap is .054 and I normally gap all my nitrous or forced induction plugs at .035 and it's always worked well. Just want to change the plugs once before I start tuning on the nitrous.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
#19
11-08-2013, 10:42 AM
#21
11-08-2013, 01:03 PM
For my 2005 4.6 2v is an autolite 103 the correct one heat range colder copper plug I should be using with my nitrous setup? I read stock gap is .054 and I normally gap all my nitrous or forced induction plugs at .035 and it's always worked well. Just want to change the plugs once before I start tuning on the nitrous.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
you better change the plugs first, then hit it with a small "pill", and work your way up
no way would i use a misfire prone autolite plug in anything unless it was to simply get it idling while proper plugs were enroute...
and you aren't running the correct motorcrafts (see the chart) then TR6's would be my only choice
#22
11-08-2013, 01:05 PM
Sorry for the delay... But I was researching the topic.
I can be quoted to saying that the aftermarket has yet to catch up and offer a blower plug for the 3-valve engines. We have been forced to use a production plug and take the gap down, by at least .010" using a gapping tool. And I think I have found the answer to our problems based on my research. Until now, we have been forced to improvise, based on my experience and Ford factory training.
I want to quickly address the requirements of a good blower plug. There are a 4 factors that are important. And remember, spark blowout is as real as pre-ignition, and I experienced it long ago, at only 6 PSI. I used to think it was a myth until I installed my first supercharger. Busted.
1) Electrode composition. No Platinum or Iridium. Copper electrodes is all I support.
2) Heat range. We need plugs 2 heat ranges cooler than stock on these trucks, especially at boost levels over 9 PSI.
3) Plug gap. We need to gap blower plugs to .030"-.035".
4) Electrode geometry. We need the side electrode to be perpendicular to the center. This is actually more important than the gap, within reason. Let me make it clear that we are better off changing the geometry than running a .045"-.056" gap, but it is NOT optimal. It is best to find the plug already gapped to .035" from the factory.
So now I am going to make a recommendation that eliminates the debate over 3 of these 4 factors. And guess what? It is made by Ford Racing Performance Parts!
Ford Racing Modular 3-Valve Zero Degree Spark Plugs # M-12405-3V0
Here is a direct link to the product, followed by a quote from the site...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fm...-3v0/overview/
Shorty Spark Plug: No
Resistor: Yes
Electrode Core Material: Copper
Electrode Tip Material: Copper
Insulator Type: Projected
Spark Plug Thread Size: 16mm
Spark Plug Reach: 22mm
Spark Plug Seat Style: Tapered
Wrench Diameter: 9/16 in.
Ground Strap Quantity: One
Quantity: Sold as a set of 8.
Notes: High thread, special long reach design.
Now, notice I said this part number addresses 3 of the 4 features I mentioned. One thing missing from the specs I posted above is the actual gap from the factory. So, I called Leland at the Ford Racing Performance Parts Hotline. He had NO information on the actual gap from the factory either. We discussed our needs for these trucks, and discussed the fact that these plugs are designed exactly for our applications, and with that, we could only SPECULATE that the gap was reduced as well. I cannot verify the gap these plugs are shipped at. We concurred that plug gap needs to be verified before install anyway but also that the gap must be adjusted to suit our needs. This is imperative. We can only speculate that these plugs have a reduced gap.
So what that leaves is the gapping tool. Can I say you will need it? No. Can Ford Racing tell you the gap? No. Can we speculate that Ford thought of all of these factors and along with that, reduced the gap too? Yes, it is likely that the gap is reduced. Can I tell you that you can screw these plugs in out of the box and they will be fine? NO.
It is VERY likely that the gapping tool will be needed to reduce the gap to .035" to suit our needs. This applies to blower applications as well as Nitrous Oxide.
I can be quoted to saying that the aftermarket has yet to catch up and offer a blower plug for the 3-valve engines. We have been forced to use a production plug and take the gap down, by at least .010" using a gapping tool. And I think I have found the answer to our problems based on my research. Until now, we have been forced to improvise, based on my experience and Ford factory training.
I want to quickly address the requirements of a good blower plug. There are a 4 factors that are important. And remember, spark blowout is as real as pre-ignition, and I experienced it long ago, at only 6 PSI. I used to think it was a myth until I installed my first supercharger. Busted.
1) Electrode composition. No Platinum or Iridium. Copper electrodes is all I support.
2) Heat range. We need plugs 2 heat ranges cooler than stock on these trucks, especially at boost levels over 9 PSI.
3) Plug gap. We need to gap blower plugs to .030"-.035".
4) Electrode geometry. We need the side electrode to be perpendicular to the center. This is actually more important than the gap, within reason. Let me make it clear that we are better off changing the geometry than running a .045"-.056" gap, but it is NOT optimal. It is best to find the plug already gapped to .035" from the factory.
So now I am going to make a recommendation that eliminates the debate over 3 of these 4 factors. And guess what? It is made by Ford Racing Performance Parts!
Ford Racing Modular 3-Valve Zero Degree Spark Plugs # M-12405-3V0
Here is a direct link to the product, followed by a quote from the site...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fm...-3v0/overview/
Shorty Spark Plug: No
Resistor: Yes
Electrode Core Material: Copper
Electrode Tip Material: Copper
Insulator Type: Projected
Spark Plug Thread Size: 16mm
Spark Plug Reach: 22mm
Spark Plug Seat Style: Tapered
Wrench Diameter: 9/16 in.
Ground Strap Quantity: One
Quantity: Sold as a set of 8.
Notes: High thread, special long reach design.
Now, notice I said this part number addresses 3 of the 4 features I mentioned. One thing missing from the specs I posted above is the actual gap from the factory. So, I called Leland at the Ford Racing Performance Parts Hotline. He had NO information on the actual gap from the factory either. We discussed our needs for these trucks, and discussed the fact that these plugs are designed exactly for our applications, and with that, we could only SPECULATE that the gap was reduced as well. I cannot verify the gap these plugs are shipped at. We concurred that plug gap needs to be verified before install anyway but also that the gap must be adjusted to suit our needs. This is imperative. We can only speculate that these plugs have a reduced gap.
So what that leaves is the gapping tool. Can I say you will need it? No. Can Ford Racing tell you the gap? No. Can we speculate that Ford thought of all of these factors and along with that, reduced the gap too? Yes, it is likely that the gap is reduced. Can I tell you that you can screw these plugs in out of the box and they will be fine? NO.
It is VERY likely that the gapping tool will be needed to reduce the gap to .035" to suit our needs. This applies to blower applications as well as Nitrous Oxide.
FYI: his 4.6 is a two-valve, while the 5.4's that year had the three-valve motors
#23
11-08-2013, 01:30 PM
yes, you posted FALSE information about the four thread and eight thread windsor two valve heads
2003 was the cross over year, and with proper torque the sparks plugs don't spit even with HIGH BOOST levels
the romeo two valve heads, had six threads in the spark plugs holes until 2004ish
so anytime a fool says they blew a plug due to lack of threads it means they were too lazy to install the spark plugs properly
2003 was the cross over year, and with proper torque the sparks plugs don't spit even with HIGH BOOST levels
the romeo two valve heads, had six threads in the spark plugs holes until 2004ish
so anytime a fool says they blew a plug due to lack of threads it means they were too lazy to install the spark plugs properly
#25
11-08-2013, 09:04 PM
#26
11-19-2013, 12:32 AM
I talked to My cam guy about my plugs and was told for my 2v 4.6 to use a stock heat range plug but to switch to a copper electrode plug. So I'm going to just close the gap to .035-.040 on a set of copper plugs before I even do a test hit on the juice. So for MY application an autolite 104 would be what I need or a similar plug.
#27
11-25-2013, 04:26 PM
yes, you posted FALSE information about the four thread and eight thread Windsor two valve heads
2003 was the cross over year, and with proper torque the sparks plugs don't spit even with HIGH BOOST levels
the romeo two valve heads, had six threads in the spark plugs holes until 2004ish
so anytime a fool says they blew a plug due to lack of threads it means they were too lazy to install the spark plugs properly
2003 was the cross over year, and with proper torque the sparks plugs don't spit even with HIGH BOOST levels
the romeo two valve heads, had six threads in the spark plugs holes until 2004ish
so anytime a fool says they blew a plug due to lack of threads it means they were too lazy to install the spark plugs properly
I have yet to run into any issues with plug blowout with 4 thread heads, I'm consequently hitting higher boost from the cold weather. I was very careful in torquing the plugs down with a quality torque wrench.