Going Built

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  #16  
Old 05-16-2013, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
You can drop your oil pan to find out for sure.

I got 4wd
 
  #17  
Old 05-16-2013, 02:36 PM
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I think each main cap has four bolts and two snubber bolts.
 
  #18  
Old 05-16-2013, 04:12 PM
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Everybody going built.
 
  #19  
Old 05-16-2013, 04:48 PM
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It's your turn!!
 
  #20  
Old 05-16-2013, 06:28 PM
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If fatherford even starts his truck its a major event. Let alone install a built motor
 
  #21  
Old 05-16-2013, 06:35 PM
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Yup factory forged crank in my build. Not sure if they all had it thou?

Not sure on its HP limit. Never heard of one breaking.
 
  #22  
Old 05-16-2013, 06:45 PM
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1000hp on the factory forged crank
 
  #23  
Old 05-16-2013, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
1000hp on the factory forged crank
Oh good!

That's about the recommended limit for the H-Beam rods with ARP2000's.

1000 x .85 = 850 Wheel He He He
 
  #24  
Old 05-17-2013, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
If fatherford even starts his truck its a major event. Let alone install a built motor
Hey I remembered to put a battery tender on it last time!

I might start it this weekend

My 40x60 should break ground in 2-3 weeks. I'll have a place to work on my junk where I live so you never know. I already have a set of heads, shortblock, and some h-beam rods. Some pistons, few other misc parts and a little machine work ill be ready to go on the short block.
 
  #25  
Old 05-17-2013, 07:10 AM
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Sure you don't want to sell any of those parts?
 
  #26  
Old 05-17-2013, 06:19 PM
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what is your estimated budget?

no way i do all of this and do home ported heads.
 
  #27  
Old 05-17-2013, 07:32 PM
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What do you shift at with a built trans now Jason?
 
  #28  
Old 05-18-2013, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BROTHERDAVE
what is your estimated budget?

no way i do all of this and do home ported heads.
I would love to spend the money on the heads. But right now the money just isn't there. A built bottom is just a smart move to prevent destroying what I have. My original plan was to run the stocker till she blew then get a built shirt block. Now I'm thinking why lose the block and crank I have? Go ahead build it, have a solid motor, get 600rwhp and have a blast with it. Something I can take to the track without wondering will this be the night. Anyway I'd really like to keep this build under $5k. Heres some prices I have so far.

$965 Machine work, balancing, and short block assembly labor. Will be less if she doesn't need a 20 over bore or line bore.
$1800-2000 Forged internals (depends on which parts I choose) and could be reduced by finding parts for sale cheap.
$320 valve springs 26125-24
$620 cams 127350. Will use 127650 if I do port the heads.
$120 Ford head bolts head gasket kit
$20 oil pan gasket
$200 timing kit
$500-530 Accufab throttle body
$$$ JDM Dyno tune
I already have new coils and plugs in tool box.
 
  #29  
Old 05-18-2013, 11:52 AM
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Heres an interesting read http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/05-09-...ted-heads.html
Notice the comment from JDM with regards to porting the 3v heads. Same thing Jim Jr told me on the phone last week.
" FRPP heads are a mild port job with stock valves and springs. The 3v heads flow pretty efficiently on their own and porting isnt going to gain much unless you go to a larger valve size and upgrade the valve train. We perform a full CNC race port job on our cylinder heads and upgrade to 1mm oversize valves, high pressure springs, and light weight retainers. This along with some cams will make for some killer power gains. When doing something like this we offer a core on the cylinder heads because of the cost value. The gains are much more worth it than the FRPP heads and if your going to endure that much labor your better off going with a better performing setup, like ours."

The prices from MMR have perked my interest though.
All below stages include disassembly/assembly, Competition valve job and new seals along with the full port and polish

of the intake port, exhaust port and combustion chamber. We Guarantee our head porting to be the best in the business!!

Stage 1 Port and Polish 286 int/203 EX @ .500 $800.00 20hp

Stage 2 Port and Polish 290 int/210 EX @ .500 $900.00 30hp

Stage 3 Port and Polish 306 int/222 EX @ .500 $1000.00 40hp As used by Team MMR


Options:
Upgrade to MMR Stainless Steel Valves (std or 1mm oversize) $349.99
Upgrade to Manley Nextec Spring kit $349.99
Change valve guides to bronze $265.00
Upgrade to Titanium retainers $299.99
Upgrade to Titanium Intake valves (call)
 

Last edited by twinskrewd; 05-18-2013 at 12:59 PM.
  #30  
Old 05-18-2013, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
$620 cams 127350. Will use 127650 if I do port the heads.
I hate to be a nitpick **** but here are some videos to feed the ears

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Notice the comment on the 127550
Just got done swapping the 127350's for 127550's and picked up 59whp and 40wtq. On pump gas, it makes 705whp and 590wtq.
Honestly all 3 are good cams, but I would pick up the 127550 over the 127350 even though you lose vct. With the increased horsepower you wont miss the vct. Also the idle will let others know you own something badass. The 127550 cam would be perfect in stock heads shifting at 6500RPM. The 127650 is only needed for stage 3 heads with bigger valves.

All the mustang guys recommend the 1275X0 cams based on N/A or F/I.
 


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