So perhaps I'll play with the tune first.

 

I didn't get the truck dyno tuned but it feels better. I will probably wait until I go supercharged to get it on the dyno. I'm really interested in these tranny mods, but would like step by step instructions (possibly pictures?). thanks in advance guys. Great information

 

my turn now!

I'm looking to put some rough idle types of cams

I called JDM they recommended me the Ford Racing hot rod cams at $750 they told me its a 8-10 hour work, I called my local garage they said it is more 12hours+

Jim wasn't comfortable with me putting the cams with my current setup at 11PSI with a BAP as I would run lean and that BAP is more a patch than anything.

So my plan is to drop my boost level, dropping down -2 to -4PSI in order to get a safe day to day driving and not blowing the engine by running lean.

What do you guys think about cams and blowers, what's the max boost do you think I should get in order to put cams?

I do no have and will not plan to put a $1500 twin fuel pump system, I just have a KB BAP and I'm not looking to get more HP/TQ I'm already close to max out my fuel pump @ 420rwhp/520rwtq @ 11PSI

 

I wish I would quit spending money on NFA stuff and finish building my engine. I had dreams of lumpy cams and more boost.

 

Hey Widj you would love the idle of the hot rod cams. While lobe separation on them is not optimized for blown applications you could still pick up 20rwhp or so. The question regarding how much boost to drop could be better estimated if you could tell me what your fuel consumption is at WOT. You're tuner should have that info.

 

I found a shop that is specialized in Mustangs tuning, they change cams everyday and they just quoted me $1500 all in (7 hours work incl. parts which is the FRPP hot rod cams) while other garages, incl. dealers are all quoting me 12hrs+ and not that comfortable with doing that, one garage even quoted me 25hrs+..

so give me 1-4 weeks and I'll put a video here so you can see if should put it as well (:evil)

I'll also upgrade my single in, dual out exhaust to true dual soon, I've already purchased the parts and waiting to get them, it will be very similar to what twinskrewd has except that I'll be reusing my magnaflow catback

do you want the dynosheets files? it could be in them

JDM told me a gain of 20-30rwhp, to be honest I don't really want to pickup HP, more like choppy sound, I know that's a $1500 sound lol but well, I always get super jelly when I see guys around with classic cars and they are pretty much all cammed.

 

tuning question

after the cams are installed I basically have 2 options as I'll need to dyno the truck to either update or create a tune:

#1 pay JDM $350 for a cammed tune then let TMS to open the file and update it with their dyno

#2 not use JDM and just use TMS to do the tuning (cheaper)

what would you guys do?
http://www.themustangshop.com/

 

Where is there a Whipple for 1200 bucks

 

I won't add cams until I have a built shortblock. I won't build a shortblock until I have worked over cams...

I 100% believe the reason my engine(and a few others on here) has lasted this long is we keep the RPMS's low to help keep the stress down on the rods.

How much I would have to have a good sounding cam, it's not $1000 cool.

I really want to wind my engine to 7500-8000k, but I'm not sure if the blower will flow that much.

 

You are welcome to send them to me but I doubt that is in there. You can call your tuner and ask. He should be able to look in your data log.

FatherFord made some very good points. On a stock motor the rpms have to stay low. The rods won't take it. My drag race tune shifts at 5300 for the 1-2 shift and 5200 for the 2-3 shift. I have a soft rev limiter set at 5575 and a hard limiter set at 5700rpm. Spinning your motor to 6000rpm is asking for trouble. Hopefully you are not.

With the cams you are going to need to drop boost by at least 2psi on the stock rods to keep her alive. Also those 42lb injectors won't be able to keep up with cams and 11psi. Remember boost is going to drop some with cams. This does not count toward the amount of boost you need to drop. Twin 255lph pumps will be in order as well. A single 340lph may work.

Performance cams on the stock motor would be primarily for sound. Dropping 2psi of boost is going lose you 40rwhp. The cams might pick up 20-30 and that will likely be in rpms you will never see on the stock motor. All things to keep in mind. Not trying to discourage you, just pointing some things out.

As stated air charge temps will be a key factor especially when it comes to fuel and timing. Dropping 2psi is going to cool that Roush blower down some so thats in your favor. All in all hp gained with cams vs lost from dropping boost with a pulley swap may be a wash.

 

Thought I would this to the thread. It's from a PM between Widj and myself. Perhaps it benefit others. I would pulley down for at least 2psi then do a dyno run or two and see where you are. If the fuel pump and injectors are below 80% duty cycle while maintaining an A/F ratio of 11.2:1 then you have room to grow. Try the pulley swap and do a dyno run and see where it's at. Two tricks to keeping these things alive. 11.2:1 A/F and never shift above 5300rpm. I shift at 5300 however the engine still reaches 5500 during the shift so keep that in mind. With your A/F commanded at 11.2:1 at WOT do not exceed 6lbs of fuel burn per minute at WOT. It's to much stress/hp on the rods and pistons. She will fail. The 11.8:1 A/F ratio mentioned in the thread is to lean once you are pushing this kind of power at the crank. Can it be done? Yes. Is it safe? Not really. One tank of fuel thats not up to standard or with a higher ethanol content then 10% could spell disaster at WOT. For what it's worth i have drag raced as lean as 12.0 and as rich as 11.2:1 and all points in between. Best times and speed came at 11.2. Thats also what allowed the most timing to be added.

Side note: best hp on the dyno was at 12.0 A/F best torque was at 11.2. A/F.

Using these numbers have kept mine alive and kicking. Now at 93,000 miles. Beat hard and meticulously maintained.

 

When I talked to JDM they told me they are getting away from dual pumps one hat in the trucks as its cheaper and easier to run an in line external pump. Once I get some money together I plan to go this route with the FRPP Hotrods and a retune. I acquired a free 04 Navigator 5.4 DOHC which I intend to use in my project car but I want to build the short block in case my daily driver at 12PSI blows up with the added power. Stock trans is still holding strong though

 

You will wait a while, I just dropped an "engine" on another new 54 gun safe.

 

Sound means power ????

I don't think so....

 

On my old foxes I would run a 255HP pump, modify the factory hat to accept larger fittings, and run a big pusher pump.

If I backhalfed my truck to fit those big 33x22x20 setups I was going to just make a custom tank and run two external pumps with a return system..