Thinking about it? E-Force

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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 08:28 PM
  #46  
sugar-rush's Avatar
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I found this post where "Mike Troyer" says not to do valve body on 4r75e?

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ch...ons-4r75e.html
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 08:49 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by sugar-rush
I found this post where "Mike Troyer" says not to do valve body on 4r75e?

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ch...ons-4r75e.html
That's kind of odd since he does sell the VB on his site for the 4R75E, maybe his thinking has changed in the last 4 years. I have always heard a VB is better than controlling the shift by boosting up the line pressure with the computer. Me personally I prefer the valve body.

Tim
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #48  
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I've got his vale body, based on his recommendation. I'm happy with it.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #49  
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Yeah. He actually carries a valve body now. The 4r75E is a strong tranny. The valve body inproves lubrication and shifts. Look here. Link didn't work.
From Troyers site:
This valve body fits virtually all 4R70-series automatic transmissions in Ford F-series gas-engine trucks, including the 1997-2003 F-150 with 4.6 V8, the 1999 - 2003 F-150 with 5.4 2V V8, and even the new 2004 & up new body style F-150's with the 5.4 3V V8 engines, too!

Simple bolt-on installation, replaces your factory stock valve body. Delivers much quicker, tighter & crisper shifts - this valve body is a complete unit with enlarged passages, all orifices already sized, springs, etc. have been optimized - it's ready to go.

If you are using a performance chip or programmer, you may (or may not) want to back down the light-throttle shift firmness levels (if you are using our Troyer Performance custom tuning, we can easily take care of this for you, just give us a call at (540) 965-7126), depending on your individual preference for shift firmness.

This valve body will give a relatively smooth part-throttle shift, as well as giving many vehicles (depending on weight & power) tire-screeching WOT (wide-open throttle) 1-2 upshifts, along with quicker downshifts.

Now you can finally get the kind of rapid filling of your transmission's clutch packs and quicker fluid volume flow to the torque converter that will protect that transmission as you increase power, or even at stock power levels for towing, etc.

This is something that NOBODY else offers, as this is the very FIRST valve body on the market that works on the new 4R75-E automatic transmissions!!

No longer do you have to tolerate just a separator plate that whose performance varies because you are not changing the entire valve body & spring package - now you can get all matching hardware so it works correctly on each vehicle!

IMPORTANT NOTE #1: We require you to return your stock factory valve body to us within 30 days of receiving your Troyer Performance unit - all you have to do is to make sure to ship it so that it is insured for full replacement value (we recommend insuring it for $500, as insurance is cheap) and so that it's traceable (retain your tracking number!) - we recommend shipping it back to us via UPS or FedEx, as the U.S. Postal Service tracking system is not very reliable if they misplace the shipment. If you do NOT return your stock valve body within 30 days, there will be an ADDITIONAL $100 *automatically* charged to your credit card! We do not charge this $100 core charge fee up front when you place your order here because we hate core charges just much as you do, and want to give you every possible opportunity to avoid the core charge - so PLEASE, help us to avoid the core charge by promptly returning your stock valve body & thanks for your understanding on this highly specialized part!

IMPORTANT NOTE #2: Requires removal of your transmission pan, so make sure to have a fresh transmission filter & about 8-10 qts. of transmission fluid on hand. Also, remember that when torquing down the new valve body, the spec for the bolts on many of these Ford valve bodies is around 80-90 lbs./in. (inch-pounds). To get it right, you'll need to use a torque wrench that measures in lbs./in. (inch-pounds) instead of the normal lbs./ft. (foot-pounds).
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 11:17 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Windsor
I've got his vale body, based on his recommendation. I'm happy with it.


Good enough for me.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 08:12 AM
  #51  
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After rereading that old post from Troyer, it seems as if he was addressing someone using a shift kit, a separator plate and valve body. The current valve body that Troyer sells pretty much encompasses all three components as an integrated package. It has new springs as well as a modified separator plate that comes with the valve body and probably didn't exist back then. But don't take my word for it, call him. Just be prepared to stay on the phone a while. A better source would be Darrin Birch with BC Automotive, who specializes in these transmissions. He's a member here with his name as his user name and hangs out in the transmission forum. Here's a thread regarding the valve body. Another thread.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #52  
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I would have to agree 100% with that post!
Get a BCautomotive valve-body.

Phil
 
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 10:23 PM
  #53  
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So just an update. I placed a deposit on the whipple from JDM. Wasn't planning to buy until next month, but he said they were starting to get low on stock. I also found a shop only 20 miles away that has a dyno and can do tuning. They're only open 8-5 M-F so have to find some time off work to go by and discuss my plans with them, but I was glad to find someone local!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 10:32 PM
  #54  
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Good deal.
As long as that place dose a good job tuning, your all set.

If I didn't have a local tuner. I don't even think I would mess with a truck again...lol
It helped out a lot!!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 11:48 PM
  #55  
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Sorry about that I said Banks but I meant Edelbrock.

I am in a little different boat because I have a 2010 and as far as I have been able to find Edelbrock is the only one with a S/C available for my truck, both roush and whipple only have them for 04-08 the only 2010 I have found was the Raptor which is the 6.2L. So I may be the guinea pig after all.

The only thing I am confused by is that it comes with a programmer which will tune the engine for the s/c and allow me to adjust my tire size since I will be lifting it as well but have read I won't get the most out of my motor with that tuner. Don't know what is the best way to go as far as tuning. d.

Guess I will be answering a lot of questions for you guys.
 

Last edited by Quackaddict; Feb 18, 2011 at 11:50 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 12:11 PM
  #56  
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a 5.4 3v is a 5.4 3v....The Whipple will work on your 2010 no problem.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 08:12 AM
  #57  
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What was the cost of the whipple package from JDM ? Im torn between buying a blower or a motorcycle for the spring.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 08:37 AM
  #58  
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Get the blower a motorcycle is a death trap its not if your gonna get hit its when your gonna get hit. Id love to have a motorcycle but my life and family is more important.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 12:50 PM
  #59  
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Just an FYI on the edelbrock setup... I was looking at a mustang with it last night, and it looks like a V10 water pump pulley and a mo-saleen idler setup would work to help prevent belt slip.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by FATHERFORD
a 5.4 3v is a 5.4 3v....The Whipple will work on your 2010 no problem.
I believe you because I have read a lot of your posts and you know way more than I do but if you are right why do none of the kits say 04-10 they all stop at 08?

I think this is why so many people lean towards the Edelbrock kit just like me, it gets a little confusing when you have to buy the kit and then try and figure out what other parts you need to add to the kit then find a place to get it tuned. I am not a novice but when you can buy everything you need in one kit, anything that breaks the confusion is worth a little extra I just don't know about 2K more.

I will do some more research on the Whipple but I want to be able to do it my self because I know I can.
 
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