fuel system question

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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 04:40 AM
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fuel system question

I have a 06 F-150 with a whipple and trying to upgrade my fuel system so I can raise the boost.. my question is can a kb boost a pump help me run 60lb injectors with a factory pump or am I going to have to bite the bullet and buy a complete fuel system from Troyer for $+1000? I did a search but only founds tips to installing the boost a pump.. any help would be appreciated..
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 06:41 AM
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How much do you plan on running? Boost and Horse power wise?

A boost a pump and 60# injectors will more then likely do the trick. I would throw in a 310lph pump out of a ford GT also.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 07:11 AM
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I have the GT pumps for sale if anyones looking for them.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 11:47 AM
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well FATHERFORD I should be around 10psi already since I have the 3" pulley.. but I want to add an overdrive pulley and port my supercharger; I really dont know how much this would add exactly.. but my injectors are already at max and need to upgrade before doing this.. are the GT pumps a direct swap twinscrewed? or what would I have to modify?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 11:49 AM
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off the subject FATHERFORD, did the PI stall help you on your times?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 02:59 PM
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They do not simply clip in the fuel hat. You will need to secure them to the hat a different way. This has been talked about on here before and I believe a hose clamp will do it. FatherFord knows a bit more about it. I bought them with the goal of adding boost but I think I'm going to leave well enough.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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I would THINK a boost a pump would be good to around the 475rwhp range, past that I would feel very uncomfortable without a dual or tripple pump setup like Troyer sells.

I haven't put my stall in yet. I plan on doing that here in two weeks. I'm going to install several things on my truck.. Line lock, Saleen radiator, the stall, and possibly a deep sump tranny pan and maybe a shift kit.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 06:50 PM
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I think to do a converter you need to do a valve body from what my understanding is. Just to be on the safe side.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
I think to do a converter you need to do a valve body from what my understanding is. Just to be on the safe side.
I've asked around and it doesn't really matter. I might have to adjust the tune for lock up though.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 10:11 PM
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What stall are you going with? I just installed a 3500 circle d and I love it.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 02:12 AM
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Thanks for the input.. I have a shift kit; but only like it under wot.. while driving in the city it gets to be a pain..
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
What stall are you going with? I just installed a 3500 circle d and I love it.
2400.. I got told by several tuners that to go no more then 2600 with my stock shortblock. When I go built and wind the truck out past 6500rpm then to go with a 3000 or so.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 07:22 AM
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Interesting. Both BC Auto and Troyer told me our stock TC is 2800. They both recommended the 3000-3500. And when I talked to Darrin at BC more about what I do with the truck he started leaning hard toward the 3500. I like it though I have not been to the track yet. Curious about something. In 1st gear with your foot on the brake enough to keep it from moving and your other foot on the gas easing in to it, at what rpm do your tires start to break loose? Also from a stand still and flooring it at what rpm do they break loose? Mine is in the 2300-2500rpm range.
 

Last edited by twinskrewd; Apr 30, 2010 at 07:27 AM.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 07:55 AM
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about 1800 or so RPM for me... no where near 2800 RPM
 

Last edited by FATHERFORD; Apr 30, 2010 at 08:04 AM.
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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So that indicates the stock stall is around 2800 then. Usually you will start to break the rear tires loose around 1000rpms less than the TC stall speed.
 
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