I finally got the time away from work and the family to get the notch put in. My buddy that I had do it is a union metal worker, so that eased my thoughts on weather or not the welding would be quality. Pics are not the best, had to use the phone. Anyway here are some pics........

 

I'd run some plates down the sides. You're going to need the support.

 

That curved piece doesnt look very thick. I agree with Stealth and would run some plates or something to add some strength to it. Better safe than sorry.

What kind of lowering kit do you have in the back?

 

agreed. from what it looks like imo, u simply decreased the structural strenth of the frame by cutting half of it out. more susceptible to damge. defently need some plates on the side for support. but the welding does look good

 

you should make one thread named "2010 build" or something like that and keep on updating that one instead of making a new thread

 

The plate is 1/4". There is plate welded on the inside of the frame rail since it is the flat side.

 

Did you have the truck up on a lift or did you make him weld on his back?

I bought one that is atleast 1/4" thick and i didnt trust it even after we installed it, until i took it up the *** from a fully loaded suburban and no frame damage, then i knew it was strong.

 

When I notch mine I will be doing it just like yours but I will be getting some 2"x2" 1/4" thick square tubing and running along the top of the frame rail

 

thats gona break i bet

 

lol...The install was on the concrete floor..

The install would have been easier if we could have been able to take the bed off. But when I had the line-x done he went over the bed bolts.

 

[QUOTE=fdimeroller;4233425]...but the welding does look good [/QUOTE

It does? I thought it looked pretty sloppy (both pictures of welds looked sloppy and weak). I've done some stick welding (AC and DC) in the distant past and could do better than that (actually, I fixed a cracked frame on a '51 Plymouth Cambridge when I was in college by welding and fishplating and it did look better). And I was not a "union welder." Today's MIG rigs should do even better.

I would have both fishplated it with heavy angle (probably 1/4") bolted to the side of the frame (not the flange!) and boxed the frame from the factory boxing to at least 6" past the notch.

 

its not the best, but deff not the worst it could look like this:

 

^^^^^looks like hammered dog poop^^^^^

 

booger welds is what we call em haha

 

I could have done better with an old LincWeld 220 even though I haven't touched a stinger in over 25 years. Running reverse polarity DC would have been even better for uphill and horizontal welds since the arc wind could be used to keep the puddle from running. Look at the weld in the first photo in Patman's post. That is what a good weld should look like; neat with good penetration and no skips or undercutting. Btw, that plate should be bolted to the side of the frame.