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1 where did you purchase the box and do they make one that will hold two 10"s
2 If I went with a different brand name amp will I be able to acheive the remote turn on without running a wire
1 I got the box from foxacoustics.com, but I wouldn't recommend this one because mine sounds pretty crappy (I had there 04-08 model that held 2 10s and it was awesome though). supercrewsound.com has boxes too.
2 Make sure the amp has this feature, not many do. Most require a remote wire from the HU, or you can run one from the fuse box (really easy). But these "IX" Kicker amps are awesome, and can be had for a good price on eBay.
Yes, it is a high level input straight from the factory wires.
I couldn't find a yes/no answer anywhere. Thanks for the clarification once and for all.
Originally Posted by SLW-SVT
good info I'm about to do this as well except I'm using this to convert the signal to a cleaner one.
The device cuts down signal strength by half. And it needs to be raised back up with the subamp. Why not feed the speaker level signal directly to the subamp? I bet subwoofer will receive a cleaner signal by direct feeding than de-amplifying and re-amplifying.
I am confused as to how you run a high level input on rca's?? Is this something that only works with kicker amps?
I'm sure it works with some other amps as well, but yes, the Kicker amp has an option to choose high or low level through the RCA inputs. You're probably thinking of those amps that have a seperate high level input, and the RCAs are just for low level; but the Kicker amp has them both in the RCA input.
I just added two rockford sp2 8". Fosgate 1000/1 amp and a fosgate LOC. I have a feeling I may have done it incorrectly however.
I left the factory amp and connect its speaker outputs (originally to factory sub) to the LOC. Then from the LOC to the amp, amp to speakers etc etc etc. With that said a TON of bass was sent to the speakers. VOL at 1, subs were loud, yet audio hardly came out of the door speakers. I turn it up more, more audio everywhere.
Anyway, after turning everything down on the amp and turning the gain all the way down on the LOC. Results were better.
My question is, is this the typical setup for a factory sub swap?
Yes, it is a high level input straight from the factory wires.
Great thread!! You have inspired me to try this since it doesn't seem to have to be as expensive as I thought it might be!
A question though...It looks like from your picture that you spliced into all 4 of the original sony sub wires. Did you run all 4 of those to your amp's high level inputs?
From the wiring diagram it looked like maybe you would only need to use 2 of those wires since one is labelled "Sub Shield" and another labelled "Sub Enable", then the other two as (+) and (-).
Last edited by Gas Can; Aug 4, 2014 at 12:43 PM.
Reason: image issue
Hello Everyone I am New to this, and really new to the page.
I've always wanted a F150 and I am 35 and finally I got my truck,
2009 Kings Ranch, So I'll try to be to the point, running this same setup on the 11' w/ Kicker 500.1 amp, can I tap in straight from the sub wires located in the rear passenger side seat?? This is the version I have?? any help on keeping the stock HU would help.. Thank You
David B - Sierra Vista, Az.
Well, I'm a basshead, and the little factory Sony sub just wasn't cutting it for me, so I decided to add an aftermaket sub in it's place. I also replaced the door speakers, but they are still powered by the factory Sony amp. Adding just the sub was very easy. All I needed was an amp, a sub, a wiring kit, and some speaker wire to RCA adapters. I didn't even have to get behind the HU, or mess with the Sony amp (which is under the center console). Here's what I got:
JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW 2-channel speaker output converter
Kicker 4 guage amp kit
Kicker IX500.1 amp
JL Audio 12w3v3-2ohm
Fox Box with 1/4" adapter plate because the sub was about 1/8" too tall
And the best part about the amp is that I didn't have to run a remote wire, it turns on by detecting signal. And the feature works great. I was debating between my amp and a JL Audio 500/1v2 (great amp as well), but I'm very happy with the Kicker amp.
I ran my power wire down the passenger fender, along the under edge of the truck, and through a factory grommet in the door sill of the rear passenger side door, then under the trim and around to the back wall, where it comes out in this perfect little groove.
Some of you make these awesome, elaborate amp racks on the back wall, but I wanted this to be as stock as possible. So I just used velcro to secure the amp to the back wall. That way when I trade in the truck, I just have to let down the seat and pull out the amp . There will just be 2 little pieces of velcro stuck to the back wall. And it's plenty secure, the back seat holds it against the wall when let up.
I used this factory screw that held the factory sub (I used a wire brush to scrape away the black paint, and a bare metal washer to get a good ground connection)
I used tap-ins to splice the RCA adapters to the OEM sub wires for signal
Then I just hooked the sub up, and that was it.
which one were the right and left on the factory sub wires you spliced into? Having issues figuring that part out.
How did you find the the +/- and left and right when you tapped into the factory sub harness for the RCA's that's the only thing i am lacking to complete my system.
Well, I'm a basshead, and the little factory Sony sub just wasn't cutting it for me, so I decided to add an aftermaket sub in it's place. I also replaced the door speakers, but they are still powered by the factory Sony amp. Adding just the sub was very easy. All I needed was an amp, a sub, a wiring kit, and some speaker wire to RCA adapters. I didn't even have to get behind the HU, or mess with the Sony amp (which is under the center console). Here's what I got:
JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW 2-channel speaker output converter
Kicker 4 guage amp kit
Kicker IX500.1 amp
JL Audio 12w3v3-2ohm
Fox Box with 1/4" adapter plate because the sub was about 1/8" too tall
And the best part about the amp is that I didn't have to run a remote wire, it turns on by detecting signal. And the feature works great. I was debating between my amp and a JL Audio 500/1v2 (great amp as well), but I'm very happy with the Kicker amp.
I ran my power wire down the passenger fender, along the under edge of the truck, and through a factory grommet in the door sill of the rear passenger side door, then under the trim and around to the back wall, where it comes out in this perfect little groove.
Some of you make these awesome, elaborate amp racks on the back wall, but I wanted this to be as stock as possible. So I just used velcro to secure the amp to the back wall. That way when I trade in the truck, I just have to let down the seat and pull out the amp . There will just be 2 little pieces of velcro stuck to the back wall. And it's plenty secure, the back seat holds it against the wall when let up.
I used this factory screw that held the factory sub (I used a wire brush to scrape away the black paint, and a bare metal washer to get a good ground connection)
I used tap-ins to splice the RCA adapters to the OEM sub wires for signal
Then I just hooked the sub up, and that was it.
do you have pictures of the wiring to the rca to the factory sub wires, in the same bait don’t know where the wires go and what color is what
Well, I'm a basshead, and the little factory Sony sub just wasn't cutting it for me, so I decided to add an aftermaket sub in it's place. I also replaced the door speakers, but they are still powered by the factory Sony amp. Adding just the sub was very easy. All I needed was an amp, a sub, a wiring kit, and some speaker wire to RCA adapters. I didn't even have to get behind the HU, or mess with the Sony amp (which is under the center console). Here's what I got:
JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW 2-channel speaker output converter
Kicker 4 guage amp kit
Kicker IX500.1 amp
JL Audio 12w3v3-2ohm
Fox Box with 1/4" adapter plate because the sub was about 1/8" too tall
And the best part about the amp is that I didn't have to run a remote wire, it turns on by detecting signal. And the feature works great. I was debating between my amp and a JL Audio 500/1v2 (great amp as well), but I'm very happy with the Kicker amp.
I ran my power wire down the passenger fender, along the under edge of the truck, and through a factory grommet in the door sill of the rear passenger side door, then under the trim and around to the back wall, where it comes out in this perfect little groove.
Some of you make these awesome, elaborate amp racks on the back wall, but I wanted this to be as stock as possible. So I just used velcro to secure the amp to the back wall. That way when I trade in the truck, I just have to let down the seat and pull out the amp . There will just be 2 little pieces of velcro stuck to the back wall. And it's plenty secure, the back seat holds it against the wall when let up.
I used this factory screw that held the factory sub (I used a wire brush to scrape away the black paint, and a bare metal washer to get a good ground connection)
I used tap-ins to splice the RCA adapters to the OEM sub wires for signal
I'm about to do this as well except I'm using this to convert the signal to a cleaner one.
. There will just be 2 little pieces of velcro stuck to the back wall. And it's plenty secure, the back seat holds it against the wall when let up.
