Adding Sub to Sony System in '11 Lariat (Pics)
 

Well, I'm a basshead, and the little factory Sony sub just wasn't cutting it for me, so I decided to add an aftermaket sub in it's place. I also replaced the door speakers, but they are still powered by the factory Sony amp. Adding just the sub was very easy. All I needed was an amp, a sub, a wiring kit, and some speaker wire to RCA adapters. I didn't even have to get behind the HU, or mess with the Sony amp (which is under the center console). Here's what I got:
JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW 2-channel speaker output converter
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...-male-rcas.jpg
Kicker 4 guage amp kit
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Kicker IX500.1 amp
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...er-ix500-1.jpg
JL Audio 12w3v3-2ohm
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Fox Box with 1/4" adapter plate because the sub was about 1/8" too tall
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And the best part about the amp is that I didn't have to run a remote wire, it turns on by detecting signal. And the feature works great. I was debating between my amp and a JL Audio 500/1v2 (great amp as well), but I'm very happy with the Kicker amp.
I ran my power wire down the passenger fender, along the under edge of the truck, and through a factory grommet in the door sill of the rear passenger side door, then under the trim and around to the back wall, where it comes out in this perfect little groove.
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Some of you make these awesome, elaborate amp racks on the back wall, but I wanted this to be as stock as possible. So I just used velcro to secure the amp to the back wall. That way when I trade in the truck, I just have to let down the seat and pull out the amp :). There will just be 2 little pieces of velcro stuck to the back wall. And it's plenty secure, the back seat holds it against the wall when let up.

I used this factory screw that held the factory sub (I used a wire brush to scrape away the black paint, and a bare metal washer to get a good ground connection)
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...tal-washer.jpg

I used tap-ins to splice the RCA adapters to the OEM sub wires for signal
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Then I just hooked the sub up, and that was it.
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Looks good.... smart, efficient. Wondering what you put in the doors, and how they sound as replacements while still using all the factory wiring and HU? I am waiting for my 2011 FX4 to arrive, and thinking about doing just about the same thing as you did here... was thinking of using Polks... thanks.

Nice little setup and install.

I have Polk Audio DXi570 in the doors. I chose them because they were pretty cheap, they are 4 ohm, and the sensitivity rating was high. They aren't amazing, but they are better SQ than the Sony's. If I had a bigger budget, I would have gone with some Alpine components in the front. If you're budget is tight, just keep the Sony's for now, and just add a sub. But don't get a too powerful sub and amp because it will drown out your door speakers easily, mine does anyway, I have to keep the bass low. And my box is crappy so I'm looking into a new setup. But running this setup is SO easy and uncomplicated. I loved not having to tear out the HU or get to the OEM amp.

i wish i could get my rear seat to fold down.

What truck do you have? Year? Screw? Scab?

That's exactly what I want to do, thanx for this thread!!

You're welcome. I figured it would help a few people out there.

Glad you finally got it all installed and working. Looks good!

Not bad man! Solid upgrade, however you need to get some kind of loom or conduit on that wire under the truck that is exposed to the elements. I ran 1/0 wire under the truck like you did and ran it through a thick tube of electrical conduit so critters couldn't get to chewing on the wire.

good info:thumbsup: I'm about to do this as well except I'm using this to convert the signal to a cleaner one.
http://www.crutchfield.com.edgesuite...161LC2i-F.jpeg

Haha thanks man! I couldn't have done it without you!

I have a question about using the original sub amp wires. Was it a high level signal? I mean did you set the Kicker amp to high audio input? Thanks.

Yes, it is a high level input straight from the factory wires.

I have a few questions

1 where did you purchase the box and do they make one that will hold two 10"s

2 If I went with a different brand name amp will I be able to acheive the remote turn on without running a wire