I was looking for a set of replacement speakers for my 2004. After doing some searches I have almost nailed it down to a set of infinity 6832s for the front. But when I read some reviews on amazon people were saying they dont have any bass. Anyone have these that can comment? I need my bass. Im running the stock deck for now. I know the next step up is the 6830s but I dont know what "component" means. I want to keep the install pretty simple.

Ok now I just found the 6829s that have this crossover deal on them. Again not too familiar with this stuff. Price wise they fall between the 32s and 30s I dont think I can afford the 6830s so would the 29s be a good compromise between the 2? Again I need something that has some bass to it.

 

Component means the tweet and mid are separate, with a crossover network set up to send high frequencies to the tweet, lows to the mids.

Most co-ax speakers have the tweet mounted over the mid, and a small cap in line to roll off the lower frequencies to the tweeter (normally at 6db slope) and the mid plays until it cannot play any more.

Generally components are less efficient due to the crossover not passing the power through, but you will almost always get better sound from the components.

For me, infinity speakers are not the best, they are a bit harsh.

For a basic upgrade they should blow the factory stuff out of the water, but at that price you could get some pioneer TS-D720 components and probably get better sound.

An amp will help all of these do better, but that may not work for you.

Best of luck

Matt

 

Thanks Matt, So my truck has factory tweeters up in the door right? Will it matter if I use a speaker that has a tweeter built in?

 

I dont know if it does. They all appear to have the cutout and grill for it, but my Lariat does not have anything in the tweeter spot, just the factory 5x7/6x8 with the whizzer tweeter. You can pull the grill off with a screwdriver (just pops off) and check.


If not, just plug the new ones in and you are good to go.

If so, you may need to do some extra work. I do not know if Ford uses a factory amp with built in crossovers for individual speakers or not...

 

Negative on the factory amp for the audiophile, the front components are driven by the head unit, the crossover is on the 4" mid plate that is in the standard 6x8 location. If you remove the mid, the factory tweeters no longer work because you're also removing the crossover.

I bought the Pioneers that el chupo recommends based on some good reviews and they come with the 6x8 adapter plates as an added bonus. I got them for $120 shipped IIRC.

 

You may want to look at the Pheonix Gold RSD65cs if you really need to stay down in the price range of those coaxs. You should be able to find them shipped around $75.
Heres the CA&E review http://caraudiomag.com/articles/prod...-gold-rsd-65cs

 

Nice, good to know. I had a set of the 6x8 "audiophile" speakers from Ford that I bought for my Mazda to put back in if I sold the car, then a friend blew theirs and I threw them in that truck. Never got to mess with em, and didnt know they were the same.


A good budget kit as well. Cadence also has a 6" kit for about 100.

Matt

 

They are fun to mess with. mine took about 250 watts before sparks and smoke.

 

So If I dont get the Bass im looking for from whatever speakers I get in the front is there smaller subs that I could put in my rear doors?

 

IMO, subs dont go in doors.

You cannot effectively make the doors stiff enough on the outside, and sealed enough on the inside (against the skin) to get effective sub-bass. Not to say that it cannot be done to satisfaction (I have seen some thin subs in the doors of a Toyota, but they built a FG enclosure for the door), and you may not need/want the volume or output that I do, etc, but not worth it for me.

If you wanted to try it then I would start with the Tang Band 6x9 or Genesis 6x9 sub, or a Tang Band 6.5" neo sub from Parts Express. The 6.5" is impressive, but gets NOTICEABLY better with a good enclosure.

 

If you're going to stick with the factory H/U then consider an inexpensive 4-channel amp to drive those new speakers. Driving something like Pioneer D-series direct replacments in the doors (I used them in my 07, see sig for details) should give you that little added oomph you want.

Give serious consideration to upgrading the deck. A 50wx4 unit in addition to some new speakers would give you noticeably better sound without breaking the bank. It would also give you a power upgrade over stock, and without having to get an amp and a line-level converter. An added bonus is it also sets you up for future upgrades. Adding an amp would be pretty much plug and play. There are several decent H/U with descrete F/R/SW line-level outs that can be had for under $150.

Brad

 

While sound quality will be noticeably better with most aftermarket head units, head unit power is "Peak" or "Max", most are closer to 15W RMS/Channel, so external amplification will make a major difference regardless of whether your using a stock or aftermarket head.

 

Agreed. But 15w is still a drastic improvement over the four or five watts the factory units provide. Combined with some decent speakers it will improve the sound quality and quantity along with setting him up for future upgrades.

Brad

 

Most factory decks are much better than a decade ago, with many actually outputting about 8-10w in basic form. While I am not sure about the OP's deck, I would suspect that at best, you would double the power with an average aftermarket deck, gaining about 3db of output, assuming equal speakers.

Coupled with a better or more efficient speaker this could be a noticeable difference, but I would venture that spending the same money for an amp would provide a FAR greater improvement in volume, (especially bass-takes power to move those cones) dynamics, and overall quality.

 

I am planning on getting a double din DVD HU in the near future but I thought I would start out with the speakers first.