The Prs midbasses in my doors are considered 6.75" but are more like 6.5". No cutting involved here. The plastic flexed a little bit on top and bottom and like JJDH said it was a snug fit. I deadened the doors and filled in the gaps at the speaker hole (between the panel and the door) with non hardening clay. Put clay on the back of the baffle, mounted the baffle, put clay on top of the baffle, then mounted the speaker.

 

where did u get the clay? what kind is it?

 

update. the premier prs have handled all that i have threw at them. nice component set. works perfect with the subs

 

I got it from Michael's. The clay is rectangular shaped and comes in different colors in a cellophane wrapper. -non hardening modeling clay

 

cool thanks..

 

Really, the best thing you can do for this is: Take a dremel/jigsaw to the door card and remove the entire 5x7 mount. Then cut a baffle out of HDPE or MDF finished with resin. Put clay between baffle and the doorskin. Attach with 4-6 1_1/2" rivets or screws. Then add the speaker in with some CCF. Fully deaden door.

Thats the correct process of doing the doors, it will also allow for maximum midbass.

 

what about the sound that travels up behind the door panel when the doo card is cut out?

 

My stock '06 system ROCKS!!!.......................................... ...................NOT!

Keeping tabs of this thread so when I get my system it gets done right. Thnx guys.

 

Acoustic foam. I'll try to get some pics of how I did it, but something like this:

 

i see the foam, are u talking about sall, putting thats same foam in between the door panel nand door skinwhen door panel is on, to make a tunnel of some sort to take place of the plastic that is cut off of the door card? see what i am getting at? so the air pressure from the front of speaker goes to the cab, not up behind the armrest....hope i am making sense

 

Yes exactly, kinda like a tunnel. This picture is more like what I'm talking about:

 

ok. now we are diggin where there's taters.. umm ok, the way i have them now, the panel doesnt rattle, isnt that the only reason they should be on the skin, the sound itself i dont see any way shape or form of the sound changing because it is the exact same opposite of in or out, since my door panels are sealed well.. now of course i see most people put them on the skin, but with this panel it was a nice fit the way it was. any more input to educate another?

 

you should treat the door behind the woofer. While your door may be (almost) sealed, sound waves go behind the woofer and bounce off the rear panel and go back toward the woofer, disrupting cone movement (of course minimally). But by putting a sound absorption material like Luxury Liner behind the woofer or by putting deflex pads (which deflect the sound waves elsewhere in the door) behind the mids, your midbass will be stronger and midrange will be cleaner.

 

ok, i see what ur sayin. now i have 3 layers of the fat matt behind each speaker directly, and of ofcourse the inside rest of the door has deadening material. is this enough? should i still put somthn like the second skin behind speaker as well? i sound deadened the doors thoroughly, backwall, part of the floor.

 

these sound great even now they have loosened up a bit..