Sure I do. Switching pulse width modulation instead of linear 180.

I simply mentioned that the Class D was causing more efficient analog output in those low ranges (push-pull) and causing the speaker to reach its excursion limit. As opposed to a Class A/B that only amplifies half of the input wave. I will always trade SPL for accurate reproduction and efficiency.

Jeez guys. Don't be so elitist

 

.

8" and 6.5" don't always fit easily in every car, and the system I'm talking about isn't in my F150. 8" and 6.5" aren't always the best choices for everything.

Listen guys, I don't know everything and never said I did. But to come in here and shoot down everyone's choices because you are electronics nerds doesn't win any points with me. I don't come in here and say "why the HELL would you want a black truck?" Stop nitpicking and just help the guy.

 

That would be awesome.

 

I'm reminded of a recent visit I made to the computer store. I walked up to two pimply-faced, socially-deficient clerks and this is the conversation that ensued-

Me: hey guys, will this firewire card be fast enough to import digital video?
Clerk 1: (sarcastically) Yeah, if you only want to upload video at a resident PCI bus speed!
both clerks: chuckle chuckle snort.

I walked away. I was thinking that these two clerks were of the opinion that online gaming should be a course at the community college.

 

Here is a better idea. Whoever would like to help me, I think this would work out best. Give me 3 choices that you would go with for my front speakers. It doesnt matter to me if they are component or not, just whatever you think is best. I will say that there is a $150 limit for the fronts. I would also like your suggestions for an amp to power those front speakers.

I think I am going to buy this box, sub, amp, sound processor from a guy that is a member here:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/pa...y-sub-amp.html

Is this a good deal, and are these pretty decent items?

I think I have decided that for the time being I will run the stock rear speakers off of the head unit. Is this ok?

Thanks again for the help!

 

These are clean and are $150
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=5023

Front Amp:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6655

As far as a sub:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3171

Sub amp:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6664

Total $560 -

Not really into Infinity subs at all, just my $.02

 

More help please:

If I want to go with just one amp to power a set of Cadence CWM6 components in the fronts and also to power a 10" sub, what amp would any of you guys suggest? Looking for something quality and budget friendly if possible.

The Cadence components are rated at 100W RMS. Is there a place to order an adapter for the 6.5" speakers in the CWM6 kit?

What sub would work well with the QLogic box I mentioned before? Trying to find something in the $100 to $125 range if possible.

 

ok just take an old fisher 15" house speaker from the living room it has high mid and low all in one box, bolt it to the bed so no one steals it, run a speaker wire to the radio, tape it to the ceiling, add a 9 volt battery, and hook it to the radio, done....

 

just kidddn, the guys that know and understand all the soundwaves and stuff get pretty involved and can be confusing, go to your local professional stereo shop, see what they have and buy somethn decent, that way when u tear em up the warranty is easy, if u arent competing, it isnt worth the headache of freakn out over your door speakers, play em and b happy, i beleive in good amps, and good source, the speakers u have to play by ear... google and search for boxes u can find deals,, im hooked on jl amps, not budget friendly, thats all i know. i buoght 4 jl 2way 5x7 coax. just fine for the truck 180.00 for all four at dealercostcaraudio.com

 

You can find a good Rockford Fosgate Power 1000 25 to Life Special Edition for under $500 including shipping. It will power fronts, rears and one or more subs. It will get you where you want to go quick...and in the future you can add more speakers to your system without upgrading amps.

As an example: here is one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-POWER-1000-5-4-3-CHANNEL-AMPLIFIER-NEW_W0QQitemZ200315071543QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Am plifiers?hash=item200315071543&_trksid=p3286.c0.m1 4&_trkparms=72%3A1234|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A 1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

Just one suggestion.....

 

Thanks for the suggestion!

My money will limit me to about $200-$250 for an amp. Is there a 5-channel that I can run that falls in that price range?

Would I be ok running the rear doors off of the HU itself? If so, then I wouldnt need a 5-channel. What is something quality and cost-friendly that I can run to power both the front speakers and one 10" sub?

 

After researching both here and DIYMA, please evaluate and suggest alternatives to this set up:

HU - Pioneer P4100DVD (14W RMS, 6-Channel Preamp Outputs) - $450
Front Speakers - CADENCE CWM6-KIT (100W RMS, 6.5 Component System) - $89
Sub - MB Quart RWE-252 (10", 300W RMS) - $79
Rear Speakers - Polk Audio DB571 (60W RMS) - $70
Amp - MB Quart PAB 5400 (RMS@ 4 Ohms : 55 W x 4 ch + 200 W x 1 ch) - $279
Sub Box - QLogic 10" Custom F150 Sub Box

Total - under $1200

Am I on the right track?

What changes would you make that would leave the approx. total the same or lower?

 

That amp wont be enough for the Cadence components. If you want that amp, i would recommend going with the Phoenix Gold RSd components, also on ebay for like 90 bucks or so. They are less power hungry than the cadence speakers.

 

Like MSaLL said, better to be overpowered than underpowered...

That 5ch Kicker amp I linked on page 2 is solid for the same money and will run all your stuff very nicely

 

Maybe another silly question. But do you still use the crossovers that come with a component kit if you are using an amp?

If I decide to go with a 2-channel for the front and a mono for the sub, I need to also get a distribution block. Is that correct?