What about this box/amp/sub combo from a store that I ran across on Ebay?

http://cgi.ebay.com/04-08-Ford-F150-...4.c0.m14.l1262

 

i personally would not go with that combo. carpet boxes look so cheap, also the box is a downfire which would not sound as good as one thats upwards. but the amp and sub is good for that price

 

Sorry if this is a silly question...but what other options are there besides carpet?

I am not looking for window-shattering bass, so would the down firing really be that bad a choice for me? I want to hear the bass when it is supposed to be heard, but nothing ground shaking.

 

my ProBox is a rough black finish. sort of like a bedliner spray but looks good.
heres their website: http://www.proboxrocks.com/

It wouldnt be a "bad choice" but just doesnt sound as good.
Like i said if you wanna see/hear mine, i live in plano/dallas

 

no you should do downfiring you can always turn the amp down a little if you think its too window shattering

and just get a carpet box lol they sound fine!

 

Point me in the right direction to find a suitable box for one 10" sum located below the rear seat.

 

Point me in the right direction to find a suitable box for one 10" sum located below the rear seat.

 

I can drive my 6.5s lower, but two things prevent me from doing that; 1) at the 100w I give them, they run out of excursion on anything below 200 hz, partly because I'm driving them with a class D, and with the 200w going to my 6x9 midbass drivers and the 600w going to my single sealed 10", there is no reason to get another 1 db from 6.5s in that range. I'm only losing an octave on the 6.5s, and its more than compensated for with the rest. The 6.5s are 24db/oct at 200hz HP. The 6x9 mids are 12db/oct LP at 300hz and 24db/oct HP at 80hz. Sub is 24db/oct LP at 100hz. I pushed the 6x9s to overlap the 200-300hz range because I was getting a 2db drop in that range; most likely from the fact that the 6x9s face each other in opposite doors.

It makes for a very nice linear response that is a little heavy on the bottom around 60 hz but I'm not going to complain. One of my install philosophies is to make the best use of your wattage and go overkill. Too many times people try to get flat response and linear bass from normal coax sets like 6x9, so they amp them to the sky and realize that high frequencies are really easy and lows are a little tougher to make. Giving 200w to a coax will reproduce far more highs than lows. I go overkill and don't ask drivers to reproduce sounds in their lower octave since efficiencies drop off fast. Kinda like buying a Powerstroke to tow a motorcycle trailer.

Not saying its right, but there is nothing like overkill for a clean sound. I listen mostly to jazz, folk, classic rock, and acoustic, so I like it clean and tight. Just like my women.

 

I'll stand by the CDT 6x9s. retail for $240, on sale for $99. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=5435

I use 2-ways. There is rarely a need for 3-ways since most coax drivers can easily cover their audio range with 2. No need to waste any wattage in a passive crossover array just to further define the sound. Plus, anytime you are crossing over, you run the risk of dead spots or hot spots in the frequency range. A 2-way only has one crossover gap. A 3-way has two. Provided your drivers can cover the frequency range in a linear volume response, there is no need for 3-ways.

Rear doors can be just 1-way mid drivers. 2-way might be preferred if you want to impress the ladies in the back seat, but here's something to consider. Your soundstage in the front seat will be drawn by the front speakers. Adding lots of complexity to the rear soundstage won't really affect your front seat experience. Plus, if you look at the placement of those rear speakers, there is no thought given to proper placement. They're just tucked out of the way in the corner. No real reason to waste good wattage on producing high frequencies when they won't help much anyway. BUT, having said that, it won't really hurt anything to have some treble for the rear seat riders.

 

Curtis

You are suggesting those CDTs instead of running components in the front doors?

 

Yes. Components just separate out the tweeter for more versatile mounting to customize the soundstage. You could get a bit better soundstage by putting the tweeters farther forward, but the stock placement isn't that bad. The secret is to get the tweets as equidistant as possible from your ears. That usually means moving them forward. In a car with low seats, one of my favorite places to mount tweets is on the front of the doorsill behind the kick panel. Velvety smooth. Not very practical with a truck since the kick panels are too far below ear level.

But, another pitfall many people get into is moving the tweets too far away from the mids. Keep them within about 4-5" of each other, otherwise you might get into phasing issues with how/when the soundwaves reach your ear. The best soundstage is when all the mid and high frequencies come from the same spot AND on the same plane. That can't technically happen all the time, but that's why we use two-way drivers to establish a soundstage. Also, avoid the urge to put the tweeters up on the dash. Not only does it put them too far away from the mids, they will play all kinds of funny games off the windshield and you'll end up with highs that scream at you and you risk creating a big frequency gap in between what the tweets make and what the mids make.

Both are an equally fine choice. If you want to step up to components, go for it. I just don't like advising new installers to add complexity to their system if they don't need it. When in doubt (especially with audio) simple is almost always better. The same drivers are available as components from CDT for $180. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...t=account_name

 

Man, replace those 6x9s with some Peerless SLS 8" drivers in fully sealed doors, oooohh now you're in business.

And i agree on the amp overkill. My amps are currently capable of over 2000w rms but they never see more than 1500 tops because they drive the speakers with ease. Much better sound when the amps arent stressed.

 

The amp design isnt going to cause that. Do you understand what class-D actually means? Do you understand the difference between that and a A/B?

And why in the HELL would you go to a 6x9 over a 8" or 6.5"?

I completely disagree. Why would you not go for the 3-way. It lets all speakers produce less of a range. This actually helps SQ dramatically. Why use the passives either. If you can go Active, DO SO.

Im shocked at a lot of what I have read in this thread. There is many things dramatically wrong. And i really dont care to rewrite this entire thread. But I figured I should cover a few parts in it.

Oh and Infinity, there are very few competitors that have ever been able to do well in the lanes with those. Polk does much better.

 

LOW E

Getting way confused in my thread about building my system.

Could you tell me what you would go with for front and rear speakers, sub, and amps in my 08 screw. I would have $750-$1000 to spend on those items.

I am planning on running it with the Pioneer P4000DVD or P4100DVD. Is there a better choice in that price range?

Thanks so much for any insight you may have.

Tried to send you a PM.

 

1) I don't think he does...lol

2) Sd BABY!!! That's why I like em' And forget what we've all heard about off-axis response and the likes of an oval, I've seen multiple systems using 6x9's win everything!