All box building guru's
#1
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#7
Originally Posted by bushtree
use 3/4" MDF
Use a good wood glue, and screws are not needed, but are helpful to hold the box together while the glue drys.
The glue will make a stronger bond than the actual wood itself..
Use a good wood glue, and screws are not needed, but are helpful to hold the box together while the glue drys.
The glue will make a stronger bond than the actual wood itself..
I have always heard that (the glue's bond is stronger than the wood itself), but still have trouble trusting it- so I always double up.
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#8
Good ole' Elmers wood glue works great. 3/4" mdf, 1.5" screws every 3 inches. Then caulk the inside seams if it's a sealed enclosure.
Polyfill (pillow stuffing) can also be used if you have to build the box smaller than the spec for your speaker(s). If your speaker calls for .5 cubic feet, then you could go down to .45 cubic feet using a half pound of polyfill. Depends how worried you are about meeting manufacturer's spec. You might like the sound better without it.
Polyfill (pillow stuffing) can also be used if you have to build the box smaller than the spec for your speaker(s). If your speaker calls for .5 cubic feet, then you could go down to .45 cubic feet using a half pound of polyfill. Depends how worried you are about meeting manufacturer's spec. You might like the sound better without it.
#9
#10
For most enclosured 3/4 inch with some bracing is fine. If its something huge thats going to have a LOT of pressure in it, 1 inch might be a better idea.
I use Liquid Nails on all my joints. Cover the edge from end to end.
As said before, the screws just hold everything together while the glue dries. So, you can either hold the box together with clamps while it dries, or do as most people and use screws. I find it a lot easier to use screws than clamps. Make sure you predrill your holes or you WILL split the wood.
For the corners I run a bead of silicone along every bit of every corner, and smooth it down to make sure its a good seal with my finger.
I use Liquid Nails on all my joints. Cover the edge from end to end.
As said before, the screws just hold everything together while the glue dries. So, you can either hold the box together with clamps while it dries, or do as most people and use screws. I find it a lot easier to use screws than clamps. Make sure you predrill your holes or you WILL split the wood.
For the corners I run a bead of silicone along every bit of every corner, and smooth it down to make sure its a good seal with my finger.
#11
Originally Posted by Bartak1
For most enclosured 3/4 inch with some bracing is fine. If its something huge thats going to have a LOT of pressure in it, 1 inch might be a better idea.
I use Liquid Nails on all my joints. Cover the edge from end to end.
As said before, the screws just hold everything together while the glue dries. So, you can either hold the box together with clamps while it dries, or do as most people and use screws. I find it a lot easier to use screws than clamps. Make sure you predrill your holes or you WILL split the wood.
For the corners I run a bead of silicone along every bit of every corner, and smooth it down to make sure its a good seal with my finger.
I use Liquid Nails on all my joints. Cover the edge from end to end.
As said before, the screws just hold everything together while the glue dries. So, you can either hold the box together with clamps while it dries, or do as most people and use screws. I find it a lot easier to use screws than clamps. Make sure you predrill your holes or you WILL split the wood.
For the corners I run a bead of silicone along every bit of every corner, and smooth it down to make sure its a good seal with my finger.
#12
You should probably be fine with 3/4 inch, and brace that bish GOOD.
Might consider doubling up the baffle though (two pieces of MDF, 1.5 inches).
If you can swing it 1" wouldnt be a horrible idea though. Still need good bracing though. Still nothing wrong with doubling up your baffle with it either
Might consider doubling up the baffle though (two pieces of MDF, 1.5 inches).
If you can swing it 1" wouldnt be a horrible idea though. Still need good bracing though. Still nothing wrong with doubling up your baffle with it either
#13
Originally Posted by Bartak1
You should probably be fine with 3/4 inch, and brace that bish GOOD.
Might consider doubling up the baffle though (two pieces of MDF, 1.5 inches).
If you can swing it 1" wouldnt be a horrible idea though. Still need good bracing though. Still nothing wrong with doubling up your baffle with it either
Might consider doubling up the baffle though (two pieces of MDF, 1.5 inches).
If you can swing it 1" wouldnt be a horrible idea though. Still need good bracing though. Still nothing wrong with doubling up your baffle with it either
#14
#15
Originally Posted by Bartak1
For most enclosured 3/4 inch with some bracing is fine. If its something huge thats going to have a LOT of pressure in it, 1 inch might be a better idea.
I use Liquid Nails on all my joints. Cover the edge from end to end.
As said before, the screws just hold everything together while the glue dries. So, you can either hold the box together with clamps while it dries, or do as most people and use screws. I find it a lot easier to use screws than clamps. Make sure you predrill your holes or you WILL split the wood.
For the corners I run a bead of silicone along every bit of every corner, and smooth it down to make sure its a good seal with my finger.
I use Liquid Nails on all my joints. Cover the edge from end to end.
As said before, the screws just hold everything together while the glue dries. So, you can either hold the box together with clamps while it dries, or do as most people and use screws. I find it a lot easier to use screws than clamps. Make sure you predrill your holes or you WILL split the wood.
For the corners I run a bead of silicone along every bit of every corner, and smooth it down to make sure its a good seal with my finger.