Hey guys, I have been following all the threads as I put together my Christmas list for my new system, and here's what I'm asking Santa for (at least for parts, and the rest is on me). I'm new, but I've been reading and researching before I made my first post.

Let me know if you think this will work well together. I don't want ridiculous, I just want a nice sound with some kick.

HU - Alpine CDA 9857 with iPod control wire
Front - Polk MMC 5250 5 1/4" components
Rear - Polk db 570 5x7
Amp - Alpine MRP F450 70Wx4 or 200Wx2 @ 4 ohms. (I am going to run 70W to the components up front, and 200W bridged to the sub, leaving the rears unpowered)
Sub - RF punch stage 2 10" 4 ohm
Sub box - musicmoose audio single enclosure.

I am going to run 8 gauge wire from the battery to the amp - do you think I need to go 4 guage? Going to put the amp behind the back seat so I can keep the jack where it is.

Let me know if you think I'm going to run into any problems. Otherwise, I'm gonna start spending that tax return early.

Thanks.

 

Fore warning on that P2, I bought one and had it for about 2 months it busted... this happened three times I had to send it back to the factory and pay shipping every time. I finally on the last return took the factory sealed sub and sold it, I am currently in the process of revamping my system after that. I tried the SI BM 10" and was not impressed...

 

I would consider running 4 awg wire. The amp you plan on using might not need it but, if you ever want more power, you will already have the cable run.

 

I agree with the previous statement. If your looking for a full amp kit go to KnuKonceptz.com and get the 4g wiring kit, it will come with everything you need, even 10g speaker wire! They have great shipping and complete products. I orgered a 4 gauge wiring kit and compared it to a rockford 4 guage wiring kit that i have laying around and knukonceptz kit looks like a 0/1 guage kit.

 

Thanks for the advice on the amp install kit. I will check that out.

As far as your experience with the P2, I have read in one other spot people weren't too happy. My backup plan is the JBL Grand Touring Series GTO 1004D.

I am also pretty sure I won't be needing a capacitor running only a 400W total amp, you agree?

 

I am running over 1,500 watts with no cap. I do get a little bit of dimming at night if I get totally crazy with the volume. But you should not have to worry about it.

 

I wouldnt worry about the cap either if you dont mind a little bit of dimming of the lights. I've heard good things about the polk momo 10" sub, might be something to check into as an alternative to the punch P2

 

Are your subs DVC ? Because if the they are not , when you bridge two 4ohm channels to mono , that is 2 ohm . Then when you wire 2 four ohm subs in parallel , your amp will see a 1 ohm load . Your amp will shut down after a while , unless it is 1 ohm stable . If your subs were DVC , you could wire the coils in Series , then both subs in parallel .

 

I am actually only going to run one sub, so that shouldn't be an issue correct?

 

Correct.

 

Either way, I forgot to mention in my last post that the sub I am looking at using isn't DVC.

BestNTx suggested the Polk momo 10" - that has a mounting depth of 5.75" the musicmoose box I was going to pick up quotes a depth of 5.5". I called them and asked if there was an exta 1/4" clearance and they tell me no -
Anyone using that particular box and a sub that requires more than 5.5"?

 

I am a little confused on what you are saying here. Your amp has nothing to do with the ohms load. It only provides power to a certain load rating. The subs wiring will effect the ohm load the amp sees. If he bridges two channels of the amp, then the amp is rated at 200 watts at 4 ohm, then he wants his sub or subs to be wired at a final load of 4 ohm. I am not sure where you get the 1 ohm at.

Its kinda moot because he has a single 4 ohm sub but, please clarify.