Sub woes... Seat lift?
Originally Posted by Bartak1
Haha, shorty.
Good thing ya got steps on your truck, huh.
Im sorry, I like to make fun of short people. My best friend is like 5' 8" and we usually just refer to him as "the midget"
Good thing ya got steps on your truck, huh.

Im sorry, I like to make fun of short people. My best friend is like 5' 8" and we usually just refer to him as "the midget"
But your right, I'm glad I got those steps!
Originally Posted by brypink2
It would be less than $20 (I think), not positive...I'm in San Diego, so I would think less than $20. I just shipped my other one to Colorado (that needs a seat lift) for $20.
I'm at work and will be home Wed. night to find out exact shipping cost.
I'm at work and will be home Wed. night to find out exact shipping cost.
Originally Posted by brypink2
Dude, you don't need a seat lift to fit the older W6s! The have a mounting depth of just under 5".
Originally Posted by twstd02
do you still have the box?
Originally Posted by RkyMtnFordFan
It's not a matter of just fitting them. The reason no main stream manufacture makes a dual 10" box for the 97 - 99 is due to the impossibility of providing enough space even with a lift kit to not only get the sub to sound it's best but that also it will eventually cause the sub to degrade. I do think it's the best choice and with a good sub will sound good even still. But almost all mfg r's end up with about .65 in the end. I'm going to start a build this weekend and will let you know the dim. and such if I end up with something worth duplicating. My truck is a 99 w/first gen seat that folds over forward and rests on floor
Originally Posted by brypink2
Yes.
The original poster has a 2005 F150 Supercrew, not a 1999. Getting the air space needed for his older version 10W6 will be no problem. Trust me, I've built a couple different boxes for mine over the last 8 months. The older 10W6's call for .625 ft^3, if he were to get a prefab box...it would work fine.
The original poster has a 2005 F150 Supercrew, not a 1999. Getting the air space needed for his older version 10W6 will be no problem. Trust me, I've built a couple different boxes for mine over the last 8 months. The older 10W6's call for .625 ft^3, if he were to get a prefab box...it would work fine.
I'd rather build one, then buy one..
Originally Posted by brypink2
Yes.
The original poster has a 2005 F150 Supercrew, not a 1999. Getting the air space needed for his older version 10W6 will be no problem. Trust me, I've built a couple different boxes for mine over the last 8 months. The older 10W6's call for .625 ft^3, if he were to get a prefab box...it would work fine.
The original poster has a 2005 F150 Supercrew, not a 1999. Getting the air space needed for his older version 10W6 will be no problem. Trust me, I've built a couple different boxes for mine over the last 8 months. The older 10W6's call for .625 ft^3, if he were to get a prefab box...it would work fine.
Originally Posted by SSpiro
I'm anxious to get a box.
I must have 3/4 mdf and most boxes out there are 5/8". I have 2-JL 10w3v2-D4's in a sealed and partioned box w/320 RMS ea right now and they drive hard as nails.
Originally Posted by brypink2
LOL Shorty? I'm average height, dangit!
But your right, I'm glad I got those steps!
But your right, I'm glad I got those steps!
JK of course..my best riding buddy is giant and after the ride people move out the way as we enter the watering hole.
You guys who are wanting dimensions; make a cardboard mock-up(a roll of wide scotch tape is almost mandatory). It's so easy to do and it's almost foolproof. Do some reasonably good measuring of the space, make the mock-up box, and see if it fits. Go from there. If you need to make adjustments, it's a lot easier to trim the cardboard than it is to make a box that doesn't fit and try to modify it. When doing your calculations, make allowances for thickness of the MDF or whatever you're using. Be certain to allow for proper clearances where they need to be, and don't forget to make sure your outside dimensions stay where they need to be. Check and double check BEFORE glueing and screwing. It's a variation of the old adage, "measure twice, cut once". Above all, be patient. Cutting corners(no pun intended) during an installation, hurrying, and those kinds of things, you will regret later on. Any compromises you make during any kind of installation, box building, whatever, will affect the performance of your finished product to a degree, depending on the degree of your impatience. You can take perfectly good equipment with perfectly good capabilities, muck up your installation and make it sound very ordinary, or worse.
Originally Posted by SSpiro
You don't have any dimensions for the boxes you've built, do you?
I'd rather build one, then buy one..
I'd rather build one, then buy one..
Anyway, with a seat lift....8" up front, 6" back side, 16"-18" from front to back, 5.5" - 6" for the bracket cut out, 13" long for the short side and 32" long for the long side. Those are the basic for a down firing type box. These are not exact...you MUST double check to see if they will work for you.
Just a heads up....I might be selling my current box. The one that has 2 JL 10W7's. The subs too.
I don't need to/want to do the seat lift anyway.. I'm trying to keep it stock.
I'll follow 97F250's suggestions with cardboard. Sounds like a good idea. I'm anxious, I want to get these subs installed.
I'll follow 97F250's suggestions with cardboard. Sounds like a good idea. I'm anxious, I want to get these subs installed.
Originally Posted by 97f250
You guys who are wanting dimensions; make a cardboard mock-up(a roll of wide scotch tape is almost mandatory). It's so easy to do and it's almost foolproof. Do some reasonably good measuring of the space, make the mock-up box, and see if it fits. Go from there. If you need to make adjustments, it's a lot easier to trim the cardboard than it is to make a box that doesn't fit and try to modify it. When doing your calculations, make allowances for thickness of the MDF or whatever you're using. Be certain to allow for proper clearances where they need to be, and don't forget to make sure your outside dimensions stay where they need to be. Check and double check BEFORE glueing and screwing. It's a variation of the old adage, "measure twice, cut once". Above all, be patient. Cutting corners(no pun intended) during an installation, hurrying, and those kinds of things, you will regret later on. Any compromises you make during any kind of installation, box building, whatever, will affect the performance of your finished product to a degree, depending on the degree of your impatience. You can take perfectly good equipment with perfectly good capabilities, muck up your installation and make it sound very ordinary, or worse.
Back to the laboratory for some MDF cutting.....Peace Out!
Originally Posted by RkyMtnFordFan
Perfect info! Thank you for at least the validation that what I have been doing today is on track. After my last post this morning I went out to start the project and did just that. I bring home from work these 4' x 4' pcs of card board that get stapled to the top of a shrink wrapped pallet of cardboard boxes. We get a ton in and I keep them around the garage for ever thing from oil changes to Jr painting a model car body. Yep..took me about 90 seconds to decide a mock up would be the best route. And you know, no matter what someone has in their truck that may be like yours, its always best to control your destiny just as you said and brypink2 eluded to as well. Perfect post though 97F250...very nice!
Back to the laboratory for some MDF cutting.....Peace Out!
Back to the laboratory for some MDF cutting.....Peace Out!
By the way, you guys start making fun of short people, I'm gonna be on you like stink on a skunk's ***. Make fun of old short people and it's gonna get really ugly. Make fun of pudgy old short people and it's all over. HA HA......


