Has anyone tried using a free air sub in a 1999 F-150 extended cab? I have a 10 inch free air sub that was mounted on a baffle board behind the seat of my regular cab, and was wondering how it would work in the extended cab. It fits easily under the back seat facing up or down. Which way would work best for bass and sound quality? Any help appreciated.

 

I didn't even know a free air would work in a truck.
How would the front be isolated from the back of the woofer?

 

54regcab... That's why they are called free air, they don't need enclosures. any old piece of wood with a round hole in it, nounted anywhere is the way free air's get mounted.

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Silver 99 F150 XLT 4x2 Sport Extended Cab with Flare Sides...
Mods: K&N Air Filter, Tinted Side Windows, Reese Class 3, Airbox Mod's, Fiberglass Tonneau Cover, Alpine Deck & Subwoofer Processor, Zapco AG350 Amp, JL 10W0 (times 3) & 1 Farad Cap
Coming soon: Flowmaster 40 Series Catback System (Orderred), Spray-On Bed Liner

 

I always thought the freeairs worked on the infinite baffle principle.
Wouldn't the deep bass cancel out if the baffle was too small?

 

Free air subs do need to have the front separated from the rear of the speaker.

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stock 98 XL, Reg. cab,4.6, Auto, Tow package, 255/70R16 on styled steel wheels,3.55LS, Black with chrome grille and bumpers! MODS: custom stereo by me, building speaker box was a !@#$%. K&N air filter w/ airbox mod.

 

Technically speaking, they don't need to be separted, and you could use a free-air sub and mount it to a board and throw it in the truck. However, for a free-air sub to sound best, it is suppose to be sealed. If you ever look at free-airs that are in a truck, you will notice (most of the time) that the trunk had to be completely sealed. Otherwise air "leaks" and it just doesn't sound as good. Take a look at some of the recent Car Audio mags, quite a few people have been using free-airs and it says how the trunk had to be sealed.

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98 XLT, 4.6L V8, Reg. Cab, S/S, Dark tinted windows, Ranch Hard Tonneau Cover, Better Built Bed Rails, Lund Lunar Visor, Smitty Bilt Sure Step Bars, Headlight/Tailight Covers, Deflecta-shield window guards and bug shield, Duraliner Bed Liner, Alpine CDA-7832 CD player, Kicker Resolution 5.2 component set in front, 2 12" Kicker Solobaric Subs, 2 Kicker ZR240's for subs, Kicker ZX460 for components and rear, Alumapro 15 farad the CAP

 

infinite baffle subs(free air) still need the "infinite" separation between the front and the back of the cone, if you don't do this you have cancellation of the sound waves. So the whole idea is to have the front and back of the sub in seperate air spaces. In theory you could mount the speaker in the back wall of the cab and have the back of the speaker out in the open, obviously not practical.

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1999 F250 SuperDuty, XLT, PSD, supercab, shortbox, 4X4offroad, 3.73 limitedslip, 4R100 with PTO, Grey Rhino-liner, Retrax retractible hardtop, GVW=8800, TC=14300, Lariat wheels, 295/75/16 BFG AT, power TT mirrors, Clarion CD/DSP, soundstream/PPI amps, JL/Boston speakers, and...

 

I agree with SDF

 

SDF250_mn,

You are right, that is definetly not feasible, but boy did it work wonders hanging out of those old Fiats!

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1999 F-150 Supercab Flareside Sport Package
Oxford White Full tint Bug shield CD player, 17" wheels, K&N
Ford Soft Tonneau cover
Gibson Super Truck Looking for more!

 

hate to revive such an old topic, but i thought the previous post to be pertinent. what would it sound like if i mounted some kicker 6 1/2 freeair woofers in my rear doors with baffles seperating the front of the speaker from the back..????? would that work ??? or is that still considered the same airspace.just kicking around thought..

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99 f-150 xlt,black,s/c flareside,4.6 v8,5-speed manuel,3.55,17" sport rims w/bfg 275/60's,k&n gen II fipk,flowmaster 2-chamber 40 dual exhaust, kenwood kdc-s5009 cd player,mtx blue thunder 75x4 amp,boston acoustic rally rc61 comps front ,kenwood excelon x576c speakers rear ,viper 800 alarm,mobil 1 user, superchip wont work (houston,texas): wish list:8" woofs in the rear doors,snuglid hard tonneau,bedrug,belltech 2/3 drop
email: fdelgado@hypercon.com

 

Just to reiterate an old topic, SPF and others here are right. A free air woofer NEEDS the front seperate from the back, it does not need to be enclosed however. They are best mounted on the rear deck, or back seat of a car where the sound waves from the back are in the trunk and cannot cancel the
sound waves from the front of the speaker which are in the cab of the car.

Spydog -- I had Kicker 6x9 free air subwoofers in the rear deck of my cougar and they are now in a sealed box behind the seat of my truck and they sound great there too. I have found that these Kickers are at there best with rock and country (not as deep for rap) More to the point, I have Blaupunkt 6 1/2 seperates in the doors and they rock! I sprayed undercoating on the inside of the door cavity to reduce resonance and vibration rattles(covering all working parts with aluminum foil to keep them clean). I then filled the inside of the door with polyester batting like your grandmother would use to stuff pillows. This should NOT be packed tightly, you can get it at wal mart much cheaper than the stuff from stereo stores and it is the same thing. This helps to reduce "boomyness" in boxes and help the enclosure "act" larger than it is. Finally it is very important to cover all of the holes in the door to keep the sound waves from the front and back seperate (as previously mentioned whether free air or not). I did this with duct tape and more batting, you might come up with a better idea. I was and am EXTREMELY pleased with the sound of these speakers. I never thought that that much BASS and CLEAN sound could be achieved with door speakers. I'm sorry that this is so long. Hope this helps -- Martin