I am looking for information on how to program my second keyless entry Fob. The one I use works fine, so I know I have keyless entry and it works. I have found “many” sites with instructions on programming these. Seems the only difference is the number of times you turn the key. I have never been able to get the system to go into programming mode. Here are some thoughts related to the many threads I have found… 1: the main theme is to go from ‘off’ to ‘on’ a number of times, with my truck (97 F250HD 7.5 Turbo) the switch has an extra position (?). [Accessory] < [OFF] > [?Unknown?] > [ON] > [Start], so what’s with the extra position? Does this extra position affect the order? 2: I have a high-end audio system, an Alpine. Could this affect the electronics? Seems to be a factor in several threads relating to things quitting. 3: The owners manual says “up to 4 Fobs can be programmed”. Could the chip think there are already 4 programmed in? Also saw a thread saying there was a connector under the dash that could be used to put the system in programming mode. Any help here? Any thoughts would be helpful.

 

the owners manual should have the procedure in it. unless it was a dealer installed option. which in 97 and a f-250 sd it very well could have been. some vehicles do use a 2 prong connector that you insert a jumper wire to and the locks will cycle then push button on each remote door locks should cycle each time you hit button. then remove jumper door lock might cycle again to show leaving program mode.

when you enter program mode it will erase all old transmitters and reprogram with the ones you push buttons on when programing so if its alread programmed for 4 that should matter once you get it in program mode.

being the 97 sd was the old body style i would think it uses the connector rather then the key cycle method.

 

Thanks but this doesn’t work. I found the connector, under the dash in the center next to the data connection. Checked it with the power on and off. One wire is ground and in both cases, the other had a voltage of .35 VDC. I would think that if this plug were functional there should be more voltage there. I tried shorting it with power on and off and even tried the switch trick with it shorted. It comes to mind that the connector has more purpose than a convenient point to short 2 wires. It could be possible that an external power source is required. In any case, it seems that the dealer has his hand in my back pocket once again. And, just an FYI, the owners manual states: “You can purchase additional transmitters (up to 4 transmitters can be used) from your dealer. You will need to take all your transmitters to the dealer so they can program them to the remote entry system all at the same time”. This is a direct quote from the manual. So, next question. Does anyone own a “Service Manual” for this truck? The service manual will have this procedure in detail. I would rather pay the dealer $25 than buy a manual for $40-$50 that I will only use once. One additional note on the ignition switch, after much thought it became apparent what the extra position is. This position unlocks the steering wheel and the gearshift lever without turning on any power. For maintenance, because it’s a Diesel? I don’t know why just that this is what it does.

 

did that connector you shorted have more then 2 wires going to it? from your discription it sounds like the brake controller connector right next to the obd-2 connector.

the unknown posistion is for what you said it does unlocks steering and brake shift interlock. almost every truck with brake shift interlock has this posistion.

looky what i found

NOTE: The remote entry receiver module erases all previous transmitters from memory when the transmitters are programmed or reprogrammed. The remote entry receiver module can store up to four transmitters in memory.

To program (or reprogram) transmitter(s) into the remote entry receiver module, perform the following steps:

Turn key to the ON or ON/ACCESSORY position and momentarily short the two terminals of the program connector (C4) (a two-pin connector taped to the wire assembly connected to the remote entry receiver module, approximately 6 inches from the remote entry receiver module). All doors should lock then unlock. Remove shorting pin.

Press any button on transmitter. All doors should lock then unlock to verify that the transmitter has been programmed. If door locks do not respond, press button again (up to three times maximum with the same transmitter).

Repeat Step 2 to program additional transmitters into the remote entry receiver module (up to four transmitters maximum).

Key off. All doors should lock then unlock.

Check operation.

 

and this is where the remote entry receiver module should be

The remote entry receiver module is located in the LH side of the lower instrument panel to the right of the steering column, just above the driver's right foot area

 

Yea! Works like a champ when you find the correct connector. It was where you said but on my truck, the connector is directly above the drivers right foot and only 2 inches from the module (the tape was the clincher).
Cheers and many thanks.

Rock on………

 

good deal

 

Hi guys .. wondering if you can help me out also. I have exactly the same problem, I do the key on/off thing eight times and nothing happens. I've done this many times and done many combinations, but have not gotten it to work. I've checked for this two pin connector, but can't find it above the gas pedal. Here's two pics:

https://www.f150online.com/galleries...9505&anum=6622


The first one is what I believe is the remote reciever module, but I'm not sure. Is it?

https://www.f150online.com/galleries...9506&anum=6622

The second is a straight shot up from the gas pedal. Which way should I go from here?

Thx!
Greg.

 

that white box is your ignition switch i beleive.

what year and model truck do you have?

and does it have power door locks?

if this is on your 99 f-150 the key cycle 8 times is the way to go. the method we used above was for a 97 F-250 superduty diesel.

 

Well that was dumb. I thought for sure I typed in my truck information, but I guess it was just for the autosig that I don't have setup right. It's a 1999 F150 XLT extended cab. It does have power locks and power windows. I stopped in at my local dealer, Leif Johnson ford here in Austin and talked to a guy at the parts counter. He was nice enough to come out and turned the key 8 times just like I did and nothing happened. We looked up the box on the computer and the Keyless Entry Module has part number 15K602. I don't see that box under my dash. I'm kind of confused why the truck doesn't have this since it has the power options and it also has the security chip in the keys.

I'm suspecting at this point that the module is just missing from my truck. I don't see a lot of empty connectors, so I don't exactly know how it plugs in. I have two friends with these trucks, so I will compare with what they have.

I'm considering two options:

1. buy this module from a wrecker and just plug it in (if possible). The remotes are $10 + shipping on ebay.

2. Buy an aftermarket remote starter / car alarm / keyless entry rig. I really like this option because I live in Texas and it's damn hot. My truck requires the keys with the chip in them. I need to research if this remote start will still work with those, or if they can be disabled.

Any insight or suggestions for other options are welcome.

Thank you for the reply and sorry the relevant info was in the first post. I thought I had that in there.

Greg.

 

It looks like the aftermarket keyless entry + remote start is the way to go. I found an anti-theft bypass module (reference number 555F) which allows remote start to work on vechicles which have the chips in the keys. I'm considering the Rattler 369D kit as my entry / starter kit of choice. It apparently is geared towards the do it yourselfer and comes with an installation help video. I haven't installed it yet, but will post on how it works out.

G.

 

that is odd for an xlt to have all those option but no keyless entry module. if you do have a keyless module there is something wrong if it wont go into program mode. but remote start sounds like you will get the best of both worlds. although this will complite key programming in the future if you ever need to get keys reprogrammed. the alarm instuctions should tell how to do this with the bypass which is ussually just another chip programed to the ICM and powered up by the remote start devise.

 

Hi, I'm having the same problem. Can you please describe what the 2 pin program connector looks like, colour etc, photo would be awesome? thanks John

 

well i added the keyless entry system on my truck 97 f150 and in order to program the remotes there was a 2 wire switch(emergency shut off) if you can find this turn the key on then hold that button (it will short the wires) until the locks cycle a few times and keep holding it and press the arm button (i think) or it mught be the disarm button on the remote. that should program it

 

Thank you for your help in doing this! I went to the Ford Dealership and they did not know how to program my truck! This worked in 30 seconds, you have saved me a ton of time, money and frustration! I was about to buy an aftermarket remote keyless entry for my 97 F-250 HD!