Here we go center console sub enclosure build

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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:13 AM
  #91  
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i hope you did some surface prep on the doors before you put that deadener on. In my experience it will be peeling off once you go through a hot summer....
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:18 AM
  #92  
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They are mounted straight to the sheet metal back wall. I used 62 sq ft, for the front two doors the 3 layers on the back wall, and 2 layers on the transmission hum on the floor. I will be buying another 62 sq ft to cover the entire floor, the two rear doors and the roof. I just wanted to get the critical areas immediately and pick up some more here in another month or so and continue the process.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
i hope you did some surface prep on the doors before you put that deadener on. In my experience it will be peeling off once you go through a hot summer....
Ya I had an eager friend who started putting that on the door before I could stop him, but we went through with 60 grit sanded it up and then used rubbing alcohol to clean up the doors.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:07 AM
  #94  
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nice install thus far!

*subscribed*
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:16 AM
  #95  
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just didnt look like it in the picture, just wanted to make sure :o
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:20 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
just didnt look like it in the picture, just wanted to make sure :o
Your right in those pics it did not show because I did not get it done before my friend had started I was still running wires so you were right nothing done at that point. :o
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:57 AM
  #97  
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were you using like 1/2'' self apping screws to secure the amps to the back wall? Awesome job so far by the way!!
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #98  
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I am getting ready to put sound mat on my doors....what prep should be done to the doors?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 05:43 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK
I am getting ready to put sound mat on my doors....what prep should be done to the doors?
With Damplifier Pro, you really just need to peel off the stock crap and clean with acetone/alcohol. Even at temperatures more then three times what your truck will see, the Damp Pro wont move. See here:

http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/heat/
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 05:43 PM
  #100  
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I used 3/4" self tapper screws.

Arcuhtek:
I sanded the surfaces that I was applying to with some 60 grit and washed the door panel down with rubbing alcohol to make sure the adhesive would stick. Then I just went about laying down the sound dampener. I don't think you will have any issues with it sticking, the stuff I used once it grabbed I had a heck of time trying to move the stuff if I had placed it wrong.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 06:31 PM
  #101  
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It's getting there! Nice work!
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 08:05 PM
  #102  
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where can you find damplifier msall?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 08:31 PM
  #103  
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http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:19 PM
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in my experience with fiberglass and body filler, let it dry well and prime it...
then let is sit out in the hot sun for at least a day. I would recommend two. Once its sat that long, sand your initial coat of primer and do a second and let it thoroughly dry over night. The next day you can apply paint.

Priming and painting before a substrate is complely dry will result in low and high spots later down the road on the finished surface. It will look great at first but in six months youll be kicking yourself for not letting it dry trust me! lol

Now if your not gonna see much of the body work/paint then you can probably just let the primer sit overnight and shoot the next day.

Everything looks great thus far. keep us posted!
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Fabian06SC
in my experience with fiberglass and body filler, let it dry well and prime it...
then let is sit out in the hot sun for at least a day. I would recommend two. Once its sat that long, sand your initial coat of primer and do a second and let it thoroughly dry over night. The next day you can apply paint.

Priming and painting before a substrate is complely dry will result in low and high spots later down the road on the finished surface. It will look great at first but in six months youll be kicking yourself for not letting it dry trust me! lol

Now if your not gonna see much of the body work/paint then you can probably just let the primer sit overnight and shoot the next day.

Everything looks great thus far. keep us posted!

Thanks for the tips, and that is exactly what I am doing. I built the box up pretty quick so I will probably be painting on friday that will be almost a full week it has been curing.


Last night I just did some minor sanding on the box getting it ready for paint. Tonight I will actually be working inside the cab to secure all my wires and start getting all that squared away for the initial power up.
 
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