Sorry for the misunderstanding there DLF... I just assumed you were talking about geographical location.

As to putting it under the cowl, I'm not sure. I don't have any experience with that but, it certainly makes alot of sense.

RP

 

DLF, check out the SkyFi. I have a dedicated unit in my truck, and a SkiFi. If i had it to do again, i think i'd have a SkiFi over a dedicated unit. Then my wife and i would have our own SkyFi's to use wherever. I feel like a hog when i drive the truck to work and have the SkyFi with me to use at work. Before i got the SkyFi, my XM experience was limited to my truck. But sense, my experience is MUCH better because i have it with me everywhere. I have the boombox, one car kit, and a home kit.

The reciever and boombox go for around $200 depending on any current rebates. Start there, or with a home kit. You should get used to it before driving, and if your like me, you spend way more time at home than in the car. Then move on to a car kit.

Sirius is coming out with a SkyFi type reciever. I sure Sirius is great, but IMO, right now, their equipment sucks. I barely used XM until i got one. Then it was like opening a whole new world. Having it at camp, work, boat......anywhere. Epsecially at work.

FM becomes completly unaudible.

 

B-Man, that install idea might have just convinced me to take the plunge for XM. I am a "hidden mods" kind of person and hated the idea of the XM antenna on the roof (and the related running of said antenna wires to roof location ) but that looks real cool.

Do you have any pics of how you routed the wires from inside to that location? Also, I presume this same route could be used to get wires from the Battery to the stereo area?

Thanks!

 

pw1981 -

I will have to get back to you on the pics. A friend of mine dropped my digital camera so I am currently unable to post pics of my install.

With that said, I routed the 2 co-axial cables across the front of the firewall and down through the grommet in the firewall by the steering column.

I ran the heavy power cables for my amps through a grommet in the passenger-side door way.

I'll post some pics very soon.

XM rocks !!!

 

So B-Man, you never have any problems with reception? Where in Florida are you? I'm considering moving the antenna from the roof to under the wiper cowl, looks a lot cleaner, and it doesn't advertise my having of XM. Thanks.


Joe

 

KingRanchSC02 -

Doesn't matter where you are in Florida, it will work fine. I recently drove from Knoxville, TN to Boca Raton, FL without a single drop-out.

The only potential blockage to the "line of site" would be the roof of your truck. With the amount of rake to the windshield, the roof is far enough back that you would have to be very far in the northeast, with your truck facing in a strict NE angle, for the roof to block the signal.

If you go to the Club XM website and search around, I think you will find that reception is probably not going to be an issue.

Depending on where you are, there are possible ground repeaters for the XM signal as well. The web site does have some info on that as well. However, it is like this forum: you have to search for the info you want...

 

Now I'm thinking about doing it this way... I hate advertising that I have XM...

I'd love to see some pics of installs and such under the cowl...

Any suggestions? Problems?

I'm very interested in doing this... let me know...

RP

 

RP -

You installed that power rear slider, you can install anything...


Seriously, all you need to do is:

1. Follow this picture as a guideline.



The screws come out really easy; the metal clips pop straight out towards you with just a small flat screwdriver; the plastic retainer on the left side pops straight up with a pair of side cutters or pliers; the cowling will pry up on the left side with that same small screwdriver.

2. Set the antenna in the little depression under the cowling. There is plenty of metal under there, so the magnetic mount should have no problem securing it in place.

3. Route the cable out the end of the cowling, towards the fender. There should be a small piece of foam rubber that acts as a seal near the hood hinge. The co-axes will slide right in between and out, like this:





4. Re-install the plastic retainer, screws and clips.

5. Route the rest of the cable through the channel along the firewall, and then down through the rubber grommet by the steering column. Don't worry, I had plenty of cable left over...

Once I am finished with some other under-hood electrical wiring additions / changes, I'll secure the XM wiring with tie-wraps, etc.

Eventually, it will look much neater under there than it does now. Just been really pressed for mod time lately, you know??

That's it !!

 

Thanks B-Man... I might try to do it this weekend...

How difficult is it to fish something through the firewall? That's one thing I've never done before.

RP

 

RP -

The grommet in the firewall (if you haven't used it yet) will pop out into the engine compartment very easily. Just grab it and give it a little tug on one edge.

Take a sharp 1/4" drill bit and drill a hole right in the center of it. Use a drill, because if you just punch a hole through it, you'll have a heck of a time pushing anything through it. By the way, if you think you might need to run more wires or cables in the future, now would be a good time to drill 2 or 3 more holes in the grommet. After you route a wire through it, it is much harder to manipulate and alter for other wires, etc. (Speaking, of course, from my own personal DUMB experience )

Push the XM connectors through the grommet, 1 at a time, and pull some slack out to work with.

There is a thick layer of insulation on the inside of your firewall. You will find that there is a factory cut-out in this insulation, right where the grommet is. It's dark and cramped, but you can see it if you look. Mine was cut on 3 sides (like a squared off U), and it kinda folded down out of the way. Pull it down so you can see through it into the engine compartment.

Tape the 2 XM connectors together, and carefully push them into the hole the grommet goes into. Be sure to slip them through the insulation referenced above. Don't install the grommet yet.

Go back inside the truck and pull the wires through this cut-out, and gather as much slack as you can inside.

Push the remaining slack from under the hood through the hole and work the grommet back up to the firewall.

Push 1 edge of the grommet into the hole, and then kinda massage the rest of the edges until it pops into place.

Finish by putting the 1/4" loom over the wires, all the way up against the grommet, and you're ready to do the wire routing inside the cab.

After you finish securing the wires under the dash, you should be able to push the little U-shaped insulation piece back up and into place, with the cables just slipping through 1 side of the existing cuts.

Way easier than this write-up makes it sound, believe me.

 

Hey RP... be sure and report back on how that goes.

I am wondering if there isn't an easier routing method than all the way from the driver's side of the dash since all the XM crap would be mounted in the passenger kick panel for me.

Also, don't you have the older peel-n-stick XM antenna? How are you going to get it off to move it?

 

Thanks B-man...that's an EXCELLENT 'how-to'. I think I'll have some time to do it this weekend... well.. maybe. We're in the middle of packing for our upcoming move.

pw... yeah, I have the stick on type. I figure I'll try the ole' fishing line trick along with some moderate heat from a hair dryer. The antenna MUST have a high tolerance for heat considering that the recommended mounting spot is on the roof in direct sunlight. I don't think the hair dryer will hurt it.

My XM stuff is also behind the passenger kick panel thus, I'm going to need to measure it out slightly pre-wiring to ensure that I have the length of wire needed. If not, I may be drilling a hole or figuring something else out. We'll see...

I think KingRanchSC02 (Joe) drilled a hole through his which, obviously, made it CONSIDERABLY shorter to run the cable. I'd prefer not to drill the firewall but, if necessary, I guess I can. *sighs* decisions... decisions...

RP

 

RP,

Rumor has it that there is a gromet or wiring pass thru in the passenger kick panel area also, though I have never found it.

A little searching might yeild something.

Keep us posted and take pics!

 

Well, why couldn't I install it on the driver's side instead of the pass side beneath the cowl?

RP

 

RP -

I don't think there is a spot under the driver's side of the cowl like there is on the passenger's side. The windshield wiper motor and linkage takes up a lot of space on the driver's side.

But, now that you guys mention it, there is a grommet over behind the passenger kick panel. If you open the passenger door and look near the hinge area, you will see a grommet.

I used this grommet to pass the power cables from my battery to the amplifiers for my stereo.

You will have to pop it out, but I wouldn't drill that one. It is not in a protected area like the firewall grommet.

Pop it out, bend it in half, and cut a small (1/8") slice in the center. Push each of the XM co-ax connectors through (1 at a time) and it will "seal" around the co-ax cables pretty tight. This will help keep moisture out.

Be sure to loop down towards the ground a little bit with the cable before bringing it back up to go into the engine compartment. This will allow moisture to run down and drip off instead of following the co-ax into the truck.

When you have the cowling up, you will be able to see straight down to where this grommet is.

Make sure you use the 1/4" loom for the whole run between the cowl and the grommet to prevent abrasion problems on the co-ax cables.

That should make your install a no-brainer for sure...