I have the below truck and it has a Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Ratio (GCVWR) of 11,500 lbs. My truck, me in it and one tank of gas weighs 5000 lbs. Put my front tank worth of gas weigh on and I am probably pushing 5500 lbs (worst case scenerio). Now, I may be pulling a car trailer (not a dolly) that I am not sure on it's weight but I would guess it shouldn't weigh anymore than 1500 lbs. On that car trailer will be a pickup that weighs in at 4100 lbs with the driver.

So here are the weights over again ...

My truck and I with full tanks of gas - 5500 lbs.
The car trailer - 1500 lbs.
The truck and passenger - 4100 lbs.

Total weight is 11,100 lbs.

Here is the question, I have a class III hitch attached to the frame on my truck. I am not concerned with the truck being able to pull it because I am pretty damn sure that it will. My concerns is, can a pull this much weight on the hitch ????

I read somewhere on here that I have to take 10% of total trailer weight and that is my tongue weight ... is this correct ???? That would be around 560 lbs., what are class III hitch listed for ???? Any information on this would be greatly appreciated. Oh, I am estimating by the time comes around to do this travelling, I should have around 240 - 250 HP on the truck.

Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean

 

A class III hitch is rated at 500/5000

 

with that kind of weight you might want to look into a weight distribution hitch . which would make your class III a class V hitch . (if you get a 1000# hitch) they also make a 1200# w/d hitch . if this is a F150 then i would suggest one

 

I've always wondered about this....

My bumper is rated at 500 lbs/5000 lbs. I find it hard to understand why a Class III hitch that is held on my 8 large bolts is rated at the same...???

 

well your bumper maybe rated at that . but if it isn't installed well doesn't mean it will hold that . normally a class III hitch has at least 6 grade 5 bolts and is bolted directly to the frame making it (in theory) stronger than any bumper cause the bumper even tho it is bolted to the frame also protrudes out the rear or the frame making a stress point on the bracketry at it's weakest point . it is only as strong as that bracket . and the way the weight is porportioned on it unless it is a several bracket mounting system no bumper could ever hold the weight a class III hitch can (at least i wouldn't trust it to ) . not to say that yours won't or can't . but i've twisted many a bumper by thinking the same thing . if i am going to tow anything more then a small utility trailer or tow dolly it is going on a frame mounted hitch , not a bumper. i tow a freinds boat around some times and my butt is dragging when i do . i have plenty of power to pull it tho . this is one of the reasons i am getting the overloads and that is really the only complaint i have with this truck , the suspension sux !!....lol

 

I was just checking so I don't end up getting into trouble in some of the states that pull people over to make sure that they are not haulling more than they are suppose to. I should be able to balance the truck over top of the tandem axle on the trailer so it doesn't put my rear down to the ground so much.

Any other concerns that I might have over looked ?????

Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean

 

Beer?

 

Of all people that I thought would have given me a well layed out descriptive explanation of what to look for, you give me that answer !!! Well, of course I could take beer from Canada but you Americans might get drunk quicker !!! LOL !!!!!

Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean

 

Cold Beer?

 

7&7 for me please

 

I'm not saying I would tow large loads with the bumper, but it seems that the Class III receiver rating is on the low side. Mine was held on my 8 bolts, and looks like a fairly solid setup.

One of these days I'll get around to putting it back on. I had to pull it off to replace the rear tank. The hitch protruded just enough to the inside of the frame rails to keep the new tank from going in. I wanted to clean it up good while it was off as it had some rust. Every time I go down near my local sandblasting place I forget to take it.

Want a thrill. Try removing those bolts after exposure to northern roads. One of eight came off without shearing. I had to use 'ol trusty (a piece of three foot pipe) as my breaker bar!

 

lol that when i would just get out the cut off wheel ...

 

So what you guys are saying is that I shouldn't do this haulling. I would be using the Class III hitch and I don't know how many bolts are holding it on. Also, I will have to make a call to the local car trailer rental shop to see if they have the weight on the trailer. They said that I could haul a pre '94 mustang as long as it isn't a cobra GT. I would be over their specs for safety, yeah whatever, my Ford book says otherwise depending upon what the weights are. Anyhow, I will have to do some more investigating on this topic, might have to dolly the truck down instead which is not what the owner wished to do but we will have to see.

PKRWUD - Thanks for that very descriptive explanation !!! LOL !!!

Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean

 

How old is the class III that you have? These days there are a couple levels of class III, a 500/5000 and a 600/6000 weight carrying. I'm not to sure what the difference is, but I just got off the phone yesterday with three different places and they all had the same ones. I had a class III (500/5000) from 1995 on mine, but my needs have changed and yesterday I just bought a class IV 1000/10,000 weight carrying 1200/12,000 weight distributing. My towed load is increasing to about 6500-7000lbs. So I really didn't need something quite that heavy duty, but there was nothing in between. It is a Hidden Hitch brand and cost $140 brand new.

 

let me reinterate . the only difference there might be in a class III to class IV to class V is how many bolts and the grade of those bolts that hold it to the frame . a class III hitch with the proper W/D hitch setup is a Class IV or class V depending on the W/D hitch . class III to IV difference is the bolts grade . (grade 5 vs. Grade 8 bolts) and the class V has grade 8 bolts and more bolts and added gussets . same hitch all in all. they have done this classing (other then the difference between a class I ,II and III ) to bring in extra revenue by making the consumer believe they are getting a better hitch . in some cases you maybe but not likely . i install these all the time ( i haven't counted but in 18 yrs close to an estimated 500+ hitches )
save some money buy a class III hitch and a 1000/10,000 W/D hitch and you'll be fine with almost "ANY" application !! unless your hauling a 4+ horse trailer @1200# per horse you'd need the 1200/12,000 W/D hitch . but if you are driving an F150 you have no bussiness pulling that kind of weight anyhow !!!