Pre-1997 Models

No Power, Horrible Surging

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Old 01-18-2016, 10:24 PM
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No Power, Horrible Surging

Good Evening. I have been having a problem where the truck just does not have any power and surges bad. This issue would last for a few minutes and go away until the truck was shut off. Now it occurs all the time no matter what. Just trying to get to highway speed is pitiful. The engine will surge from 1000 to 1500 and just bounce between these numbers until it just sticks at 1000 and im trying to build speed. It only settles out once i get to speed. So driving around the city with stoplights is pretty bad to say the least. I have used both the EEC Ford Manual that i have and the haynes manual to test the TPS, IAC, plug wires. The only thing new on the truck is a new alternator and TPS. Still the problem persists. Everything that i have checked so far comes out with no problems. I have no codes stored in memory. I did the KOER test with no codes except system pass. I tried to use the fuel pressure gage i have but the fitting that connects the hose to the fuel rail has broken. So i plan on getting a new tester. I have no idea what else to try other than the MAP, Ignition Control Module ECT and the fuel pressure regulator. Doing searches i am not so sure about the ICM. As i understand it i should have an erratic or no tach. It is the grey module and i need to find someone who can test it. I have included a video of the truck running. This is trying to get onto the highway. Pretty sure a geo metro could run me down right now. I have other videos but my phone is archaic by todays standards and will not download them to the email. Go figure. Regardless i have no power at all now. the only time the symptoms stop is finally getting to a cruising speed. Around the city from stop light to stop light i get the surging thing. The other thing i did is check for vacuum leaks. I couldnt find any. As soon as i can get the FP tester i hope to find a surging fuel pressure but i am not counting on it. I do not understand why i have no codes. I have even put on a new IAC from autozone which didnt change a thing. Fortunately i was able to replace it. I also put on a new pcv, rotor cap and button. The plugs looked a bit white but no other weird indication. I rechecked the gap at .44. The only thing i can guess is the exhaust. I have noticed a leak somewhere up towards the front of the truck. From the last cat back is new with a flowmaster 44. I did hollow out the second cat. I am not sure if this may be an issue but i did this all after the symptoms first started.

I would appreciate any feedback as i am not sure what else to check besides the items i listed
 

Last edited by Ol Blue 2; 01-18-2016 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Weird hyperlink stuff.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:17 PM
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https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/h/x...ile0&safe=1&zw

trying to get this video uploaded and this computer is giving me fits.
ok I hope that this works for yall. It works on my end. It is the video i took this morning of the surging issue i have while driving. I apologize now for the crappiness of it as my phone is ancient compared to todays standards.
Thanks for looking.
 

Last edited by Ol Blue 2; 01-18-2016 at 11:29 PM.
  #3  
Old 01-19-2016, 12:14 AM
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Upload is not valid, it points to your email account which we don't have access to. Upload it to your Google Drive and make it public. Also need details on your truck, which engine and is it MAF or speed density?
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:54 PM
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I'd suggest the same thing I told unclepie - get a fuel pressure gauge on it. It would be particularly good if you could watch the pressure when it starts surging, that would tell you pretty quick if it's related to the fuel pressure. Would need some info about your truck to tell you what it should be at though.
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:21 PM
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Sorry about that. I thought I included the information. My brain has been fried over this issue.
1995 F150 5.8, E4OD. 4"lift, 33"s, Flowmaster 40 with one cat hollowed out. Speed density. Engine stock other than new alternator, Ford Motorsport plug wires (the blue ones), new rotor cap and button, autolite plugs set at .44. new TPS, IAC and TB cleaned with MAF cleaner.

I will try to get the video to work. Im not the most computer savvy person. Would it work if i posted it to Facebook?
Thanks.
Also I cant seem to find much help in testing out the MAP sensor. I will have to dig into the EEC manual some more.
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:25 PM
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I plan on putting a FP gage on the rail and making sure it is leak tight and carefully drive around so that the truck goes under a load. If I could get the dumb video to work you would see the surge. With dual exhaust it sounds like it is a pitiful chevy or something. I dont know if anyone hears it or not when i get the video uploaded but it sounds like a couple of the cylinders run out of gas at the low end of the tach needle bounce. For example if you ran out of gas (no more in the gas tank) that last little bit of chugging from the engine trying to run is what it sounds like. Today i will pull off the vacuum hose from the regulator to see if it wet with fuel as my searches have told me. Beyond that it is the gage and perhaps the MAP sensor. Searching leads me to think the ICM is not at fault. I do need to double check myself on the color of the module though.
Thanks.
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:34 PM
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Considering how cheap they are, I'd replace the MAP sensor.
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 06:19 PM
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F/P gauge costs about $50. You will use it again and again (ask me how I know).
I think you need to know if you have enough pressure before you spend a nickel throwing parts at it. IMHO.
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1995XLT
F/P gauge costs about $50. You will use it again and again (ask me how I know).
I think you need to know if you have enough pressure before you spend a nickel throwing parts at it. IMHO.
How do you know?
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:35 PM
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Why buy a FP gauge when you can borrow one from a parts store?
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
Why buy a FP gauge when you can borrow one from a parts store?
Good question. Since I bought one, I've had use for it several times. Probably would have spent more on gas to go get it and take it back than it cost me, so I figure I'm ahead.
Really anyone with a 20 year old fuel injected vehicle should have one in their toolbox.
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:55 PM
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I have one in my toolbox however the piece that connects the gage to the shrader valve on the fuel rail split. I used it quite a bit on the last vehicle I had. I checked autozone and they wanted 163$ to rent their test kit. Oriellys didn't have one.




So I have it uploaded to Youtube. The video was shot in the morning so it is dark.
I hope it works.
Thanks.
 

Last edited by Ol Blue 2; 01-20-2016 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:21 PM
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Yeah, but you get the $163 back when you bring it back.

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?
 
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Old 01-20-2016, 03:05 PM
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the fuel filter was changed at the beginning of last year (2015).
 
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Old 01-20-2016, 03:33 PM
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It would not hurt to replace it again.
 


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