Whats the word on code "34"? What do I do now?

 

EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Voltage Above Closed Limit

 

Assuming that is a bad thing, how would one go about remedying such a thing? Fuel injector cleaner? Replace the EGR valve? Rev it up as far as it would go and drop it into reverse while holding the brakes?

 

So for the code 34.. What should I do about that?

 

Troubleshoot the EGR system.

 

Two things, your engine is not EFI, it has a carb. That it won't kick down is a carb issue, not anything electronic. Code 34 is for an EGR out of range. That can cause the surging you are getting and cause the engine to run rough. Skip the transmission stuff and replace the complete EGR. If you still have issues, the carb probably needs a rebuild. Most often when a carbed engine hesitates it's because the accelerator pump is worn.

 

But my truck is EFI. 100% sure. Does that change the procedure to repair?

 

Can I just bypass the EGR system to resolve this issue? I don't have to pass emissions where I live.

 

No, it won't run right. The computer is calibrated for the presence of EGR.

 

The first year for the 5.8 (351) engine to have EFI was 1990. Prior to that it had a carb. You either have a bastard engine or you have a 5.0 which was an EFI engine. So which is it? They are NOT the same engine. If it's a 5.0, the EGR replacement will probably fix the entire issue. If it's a 5.8/351 and EFI, who knows as it's a custom install. Maybe a good install and maybe a half wit install.

 

With all due respect, 1988 was the first year for EFI on the 351. Reference:

http://www.f150hub.com/specs/351w.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Windsor_engine

 

On the airbox housing there is a vacuum diagram sticker. On the sticker, it say that it is a 5.8 L

The engine looks like this pic I found on Google:

http://brembs.net/cars/engine.jpg

 

Pull the vacuum line off the EGR and plug it, see if it makes a difference.

 

I pulled the vacuum line off and plugged it per instructions. From the preliminary test, it seems to have solved the drivability issue. I will need to drive it more to be absolutely sure, but so far so good.

 

It's up to you - whether you drive it as is (it won't hurt anything but it won't perform right and will get lousy gas mileage) or spend the money to fix the EGR system properly. If it's idling smooth at least the EGR valve is closed all the way.