The cruise control is totally inop. Fuses all seem OK. The Chiltons I have doesn't show the cruise control wiring so I have no where to start to test the switches and such. It's my understanding that the servo seldom fails so I'm thinking either switches or speed sensor?

 

That was the first year of the faulty deactivation switches. Check your VIN with a dealer to see if you fall under the recall. The deactivation switch is screwed into the master cylinder - check that for evidence of fluid leakage. If the recall has been done, it will have a bundled harness attached to it with a blue (?) tag on it. There's a fuse inside that harness. If it's blown, DO NOT replace it, replace the switch (about 30 bucks) and get a new harness.

 

Checked the recall notices last week and it needed the new harness. Had it replaced the next day. I'll get a new switch today and see if that helps. Thanks for the info!

 

Check your harness and see if the fuse is blown!

 

Does your horn work?
Is your airbag light on?

 

Horn works, no airbag light on, checked the speed control/horn fuse and both fuses in the new harness, and replaced the speed control deactivation switch. No luck.

 

Well - at least you know that you won't start a fire with a new switch and a harness.

 

does your speedometer bounce or move sporadically ever? Check your codes. If it is the speed sensor, it should show up in your codes. Also like others said check your brake lights make sure they are operating properly. Then of course as mentioned, the recall. Any of these can cause problems. good luck

 

'93 had the SCDS on a brass block on the frame - not on the MC; '94 was the first year for that.

Read this & follow the links in the caption:

 

Exactly what I was looking for! Many thanks.

 

Thanks to Steve83's troubleshooting chart I've troubleshot this down to the clock spring in the steering column. The switch resistances are all over the place when the steering wheel is turned. You can find a sweet spot in several places where the readings are steady but obviously that's not going to work. I'm off to hunt a new one down.

 

This happened to my 92 last year, What happened is that there is a hose connected to an air activated switch. This hose often pops off, or pop out if the set screw to hold it in has vibrated lose. I would check this, the switch is white as well.

 

Click my tan CV in my sig & read the captions in the Steering Column album.That's a totally different system. Yours uses the vacuum servo & underdash module; the one in this thread ('93-04) uses the electronic servo.

 

Additional question on this. I see that I should only have a clock spring assy if I have an airbag. This vehicle has no airbag so where are the rotary contacts for the switches? I attempted to pull the steering wheel but, unfortunately, the puller bolts pulled out before the steering wheel had a chance to budge. I'll be drilling and tapping them before I attempt that again! I did spray some lubricating contact cleaner similar to what we use on the aircraft at work and the readings seem more normal now. Still no cruise though. I'll check the servo today and make sure the cable is good.

 

OK, the cable is good. Pulled apart the servo/amplifier assy and it's spotless. Is there a way to apply a 12v signal to the servo at the input from the amplifier to test that the servo motor is good? I'd like to make sure the servo is good before going any further. The servo motor seemed to be frozen so I "helped" it a bit and it broke free and I can spin the motor and gears by hand. The actuator for the gear that drives the cable assy works when a 12v signal is applied. I'm just hoping I didn't break a stop of some sort when I manually twisted the motor shaft. Tried out the system and when I press the set switch while driving I can hear something try to work now (kinda like a motor spinning up) but I'm thinking I might have broken something.