DRL Module
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From: Texas
DRL Module
Does anyone know the location of the DRL module on a '93 F150?? I have a problem with the running lights NOT staying on when the switch is pulled out in it's outmost position...only the headlights remain on. When the switch is postioned between the running lights mode & the headlights mode..only then will the running light illuminate. This is why I feel the DRL module is suspect. Pls advise....quickly. I have to get my truck inspected & cannot do so until I get this fixed...& I have to drive our back up CAR...a CHEVROLET...LUMNIA; I have to fall into it & crawl outta it!!!
Thx.
Thx.
Last edited by jz6459; Oct 27, 2010 at 08:11 PM. Reason: humor
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
A Texas truck shouldn't have a DRL module; just a jumper connector. Your problem sounds like a bad headlight switch or connector. The terminals are known to burn off. The top half of this diagram shows how to access it:
With the headlight **** pushed all the way in, do your headlights come on with the key in RUN?
With the headlight **** pushed all the way in, do your headlights come on with the key in RUN?
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No, they don't...the switch must activate the headlights; only of late do the running lights go out when the headlights come on. I tried a new switch, but it did the same thing so that isn't the answer. Upon returning the new switch I bought a chiltons manual for this model for the schematic drawings; they're useful to some extent, but limited.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
I'd return that Chilton's - they suck for these trucks. Haynes is vastly superior, if you get an OLD edition.
Have you checked the fuse for the parking lights?
Have you checked the fuse for the parking lights?
Last edited by Steve83; Nov 1, 2010 at 01:49 AM.
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From: Texas
Yeah, but it's not a fuse issue...those lights work, but only when the switch is positioned between the runniing lights position & the headlights position. There has to be a component in this circuit that isn't operating.
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,495
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
The only components between the battery & parking lights are the fuse, the wires, & the headlight switch. Pull the switch out of the dash, with the wiring still connected. Pull the **** out to the PARK position and test voltage on the park light power wire, & then on the park light output wire. If >10VDC on the power wire, it's in the wiring or fuse. If <10 on the output, the switch is bad. Recheck it in the HEADLIGHT position - same test, same results.
