Rear Anitlock
Rear Anitlock
Does anyone else have this problem, I have an 87 F150 XLT Lariat with roughly 86xxx miles on it. Just bought it from of my buddies about 2 weeks ago, and we had to replace the ECU because after after it wormed up it just shut off and the #2 injector stayed open, in turn flooding out the engine.
Anyways, long story short, about 3 days later, this light pops up in my dash screaming "REAR ANTILOCK" does anyone else have this problem on their F150??? I fckin hate having lights on in my dash that don't need to be on.
Anyways, long story short, about 3 days later, this light pops up in my dash screaming "REAR ANTILOCK" does anyone else have this problem on their F150??? I fckin hate having lights on in my dash that don't need to be on.
If your getting the ABS light, it's low fluid, A bad VSS sensor on the Differential, or bad ABS valve. Only the actual brakes if the pads &/or shoes where completely gone. There is a method to test the brake system. the terminal is under the drivers side dash. I think you jumper connections &/or ground one & count ABS light flashes. I think the procedure is in the Haynes manual. Did it on my 87' 4-5 yrs ago. The ABS valve is rebuildable except the internal electrical switches aren't available to the public. as to weather it's the valve or sensor......50/50. Sensor = +-$50. Valve = +-$250. NAPA had the best price/warranty. My valve went at 84K. If you remove the valve , crack the case & if the switches are saturated, it's pooched. After replacing & completely bleeding the system, the light will probably still be on, because the internal plunger is making contact w/ one of the internal switches. That's why there are bleeder valves on each end. So you get to d*ck around w/ them till the plunger is between them. Each time, running the stupid test, till you don't see the code anymore which resets the light. Sound like fun yet?
Last edited by ymeski; Feb 14, 2010 at 05:42 PM.
Wow, that actually seems like a lot of unessesary work. I think I'll just black it out and act likes it's not there. F it, the brakes are working fine anyways, so just whatever with I guess.
Really now. I think that sounds like a much cheaper solution. About where do I need to search for this around the diff. ? I'm asking because I don't really know a lot about domestic vehicles, I'm more of an import guy, Ford just happens to be my favorite domestic brand.
Trending Topics
Sensor is located on the upper part of the front of the differential housing. It has a plastic sheathed two conductor wire going to it. If it has metal particles on it (magnetic) wipe them off and see if light goes out. Mine didn't, so I replaced sensor and everything has been working fine since. If the sensor ring is bad inside the differential then you have a lot more work to do. Simple first is the way I approach everything.


