help
my gas mileage is 10-12 no matter what i do.i have tried the following:new plugs,wires,cap,rotor,even an 02 sensor,cleaned throttle body& injectors.my drive to work is all highway 15mi. one way no stops. any suggestions??!!!! thanks
------------------
91 long box,302,auto,bosch plugs,accel wires,steelhorse steps,31x10.50 tires
------------------
91 long box,302,auto,bosch plugs,accel wires,steelhorse steps,31x10.50 tires
What gears does your 91 have? If you have really low gears you won't make great mileage. I have a 1993 F-150 equipped like yours and I get an avgerage of 20. I also have a 89 4x4 that gets an average of 14. How hard do you accelerate? I have proved that going over 70mph will cut your mileage. Not alot, but considerably. If you don't have a topper or a tonneau cover, I suggest driving with your tailgate down several times and seeing if it makes a difference. I get about 1 mpg better. also, what tranny do you have? The C-6, the AOD or the E40d. The c-6 has no OD, gear selections being d,2;1. This is a bulletproof tranny, but gets low mileage. The AOD has OD,d,1 and the OD gear is pretty high, most trucks with the AOD get .5-1 mpg lower than the E40d equipped truck. The E40d has OD,2,1 and the OD cancel on the dash. I've heard that the Standard 5.0 without any options will avg, around 16.
------------------
toydestroyer1@yahoo.com
"Sleeper"
1993 F-150 302/e4od/355 Limited slip. dual exhuast w/o mufflers, 2 1/4" pipes, Echo Tips, Summit Racing headers, accel plugs/wires(8.6mm)/rotor/cap, hypertech powermodule, 4 degree advance,Blaster Coil,MSd 6A Ignition, TPS Mod,hopefully roller rockers in the future,possible 4:10 gear swap 5% dark tint, Ford Bed mat, Bundy Chrome Drop bumper, Wrap-around bug deflector, 2-tone tan/brown. Alpine cd player and Pioneer speakers, with tweeters No room for anything else.
1989 F-150 XLT 4x4 Future 300hp engine build!
2000 Superduty CrewCab v-10, auto,2wd.
[This message has been edited by Pastmaster (edited 04-12-2000).]
------------------
toydestroyer1@yahoo.com
"Sleeper"
1993 F-150 302/e4od/355 Limited slip. dual exhuast w/o mufflers, 2 1/4" pipes, Echo Tips, Summit Racing headers, accel plugs/wires(8.6mm)/rotor/cap, hypertech powermodule, 4 degree advance,Blaster Coil,MSd 6A Ignition, TPS Mod,hopefully roller rockers in the future,possible 4:10 gear swap 5% dark tint, Ford Bed mat, Bundy Chrome Drop bumper, Wrap-around bug deflector, 2-tone tan/brown. Alpine cd player and Pioneer speakers, with tweeters No room for anything else.
1989 F-150 XLT 4x4 Future 300hp engine build!
2000 Superduty CrewCab v-10, auto,2wd.
[This message has been edited by Pastmaster (edited 04-12-2000).]
Pastmaster, 5.0L Std. getting 16 MPG?.........Like to see that, lol.
Best I ever got was 14.7 normal is around 10. Have a '93 150 SC 4X4 SB.
Suggestion for jim-nc, might want to swap fuel filter.
----nailer----
------------------
ON ORDER: 2000 F250 SD SC XLT V-10 SB With all the goodies! (Due Mid-April)
CURRENT: 1993 F150 SC XLT 5.0L V-8 with 165,000 miles, (a new x-mission), and lots of great memories!
Best I ever got was 14.7 normal is around 10. Have a '93 150 SC 4X4 SB.
Suggestion for jim-nc, might want to swap fuel filter.
----nailer----
------------------
ON ORDER: 2000 F250 SD SC XLT V-10 SB With all the goodies! (Due Mid-April)
CURRENT: 1993 F150 SC XLT 5.0L V-8 with 165,000 miles, (a new x-mission), and lots of great memories!
Jim-NC,
I have a 1996 F150 4x2 w/302, and like you I get 11-12 EVERYWHERE no matter what I am doing. In town, Hwy, Towing, or empty, it seems to make NO difference. I do drive fairly fast and I know that hurts some. I also have 31x10.50's and I know that throws the odometer off by about .1 of a mile. This will cause your mpg calculations to be off SLIGHTLY. You seem to have tried many of the things that I was thinking of. If you do find the magic cure would you please post it on this great site for all of us? Thanks -- Martin
PS I really don't think anything is wrong with this truck because I had a 1980 F150 w/302 and a 1981 F150 w/ I6-300 and they both consistently about the same as this one.
I have a 1996 F150 4x2 w/302, and like you I get 11-12 EVERYWHERE no matter what I am doing. In town, Hwy, Towing, or empty, it seems to make NO difference. I do drive fairly fast and I know that hurts some. I also have 31x10.50's and I know that throws the odometer off by about .1 of a mile. This will cause your mpg calculations to be off SLIGHTLY. You seem to have tried many of the things that I was thinking of. If you do find the magic cure would you please post it on this great site for all of us? Thanks -- Martin
PS I really don't think anything is wrong with this truck because I had a 1980 F150 w/302 and a 1981 F150 w/ I6-300 and they both consistently about the same as this one.
Obviously, a stock 5.0L 2wd gets around 12-16 mpg. My dad's lastest 5.0 was in a 1994 F-150 equipped identical to mine , and his was stock and it avged around 16 with Mass air. A powerchip must do its job if it increases mpg's by about 3-4. My 89 has 31's and true duals without cat convertors. Best I have gotten with it is around 16. Buddy of mine has a F-150 4x4 with a 351/E40d and 3.55 gears with stock tires and a tonneau covers and he claims 13-15mpg. His is stock.
I have a 96 F-150 with I-6 , standard, long bed and from day one it gets 15 to 18 mpg. This is about 99% arround town driving.
Do check your tire pressure at least once a month and make sure there at a minimum of whats posted on the door.
Also, when was the last time you greased the wheel bearings? Check for brakes dragging.
[This message has been edited by insect2 (edited 04-13-2000).]
Do check your tire pressure at least once a month and make sure there at a minimum of whats posted on the door.
Also, when was the last time you greased the wheel bearings? Check for brakes dragging.
[This message has been edited by insect2 (edited 04-13-2000).]
Trending Topics
I have a 5.0L 5-spd. 4x4 getting 17 MPG.
The truck is chipped (only run 87 octane) with dual's, 3:55 gears and 33's.
I do like to drive a little aggressive.
(I know you are supposed to run 97 octane but with gas prices......)
The truck is chipped (only run 87 octane) with dual's, 3:55 gears and 33's.
I do like to drive a little aggressive.
(I know you are supposed to run 97 octane but with gas prices......)
Pastmaster(or anyone who knows more than me)-
what is mass air? what are the other option that my truck may have? How can I tell? what's the difference? which is better? y'all don't have to answer all (or any of these), but I have heard this term repeatedly and am very curious. thanks in advance for your help. -- Martin
what is mass air? what are the other option that my truck may have? How can I tell? what's the difference? which is better? y'all don't have to answer all (or any of these), but I have heard this term repeatedly and am very curious. thanks in advance for your help. -- Martin
Per StrangeRanger...Speed density systems measure manifold absolute pressure (as in "MAP" sensor) or the pressure above perfect vacuum in the intake manifold. Because for a stock engine the volumetric efficiency of the engine is well known by the manufacturer at any given RPM and temperature, the processor looks up the values in a table and meters fuel accordingly. Anything which significantly affects volumetric efficiency, such changes in cam, compression ratio, or adding a blower will cause the computer to misread the charts and run poorly. Minor changes such as air cleaners and cat-backs do not create a problem. Speed density is not all bad. The older speed density Mustangs in stock form were actually quicker than the mass air controlled ones of the same era. The engineers were able to run the speed density controllers much closer to the perfect power producing lean without going over.
Mass air sensors use a hot-wire that is cooled at a known rate by a mass of air flowing over it to get a direct measurement of the air ingested by the engine. As a result they will allow virtually any modification (as long as you upsize the meter, fuel pump and injectors appropriately) without loss of control. Mass air chips may benefit from a little tweaking to maximize performance or resolve drivability issues, but a mass air vehicle will run quite well on the stock processor, meter, pump and injectors up to about 280 flywheel HP.
You can have a speed density controller reprogrammed to accomodate a new engine configuration, if you can find a dyno-tuner who is familiar enough with them. But if your engine is a work in progress, each significant change means a re-burn. At $250-300 or so per burn, it doesn't take long to pay for a do it yourself install of a mass air conversion ($600-650) which lets you piecemeal stuff as you go.
Also if the tree-huggers have instituted smog checks in your area, you're going to find a lot more smog-legal stuff that mates up to mass air and be much more likely to pass with a mass air control.
------------------
1993 F-150 4x4 5.0L EFI 5spd. Silver Shortbed..Kelly Safari AWR tires,K&N Air filter,Cat-Back Exhaust.
Mass air sensors use a hot-wire that is cooled at a known rate by a mass of air flowing over it to get a direct measurement of the air ingested by the engine. As a result they will allow virtually any modification (as long as you upsize the meter, fuel pump and injectors appropriately) without loss of control. Mass air chips may benefit from a little tweaking to maximize performance or resolve drivability issues, but a mass air vehicle will run quite well on the stock processor, meter, pump and injectors up to about 280 flywheel HP.
You can have a speed density controller reprogrammed to accomodate a new engine configuration, if you can find a dyno-tuner who is familiar enough with them. But if your engine is a work in progress, each significant change means a re-burn. At $250-300 or so per burn, it doesn't take long to pay for a do it yourself install of a mass air conversion ($600-650) which lets you piecemeal stuff as you go.
Also if the tree-huggers have instituted smog checks in your area, you're going to find a lot more smog-legal stuff that mates up to mass air and be much more likely to pass with a mass air control.
------------------
1993 F-150 4x4 5.0L EFI 5spd. Silver Shortbed..Kelly Safari AWR tires,K&N Air filter,Cat-Back Exhaust.
Just a thought here, but if Jim is running a 3.55 LS gear with 31 inch tires, wouldn't that put his gearing even higher which would burn more gas ???? Faster revolutions in tires means even faster in rear gear which transfers to transmission even faster yet ??? Wouldn't it be like driving a 460 motor with 4.10 gears, the motor would be screaming to keep the truck moving and that means major amounts of fuel ??? Not sure but no one mentioned the gears vs. tire size.
Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean
------------------
1994 F-150 XLT Supercab, Long Box, 302 EFI, Automatic, Royal Blue in and out, Captain Chairs. Chrome Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 105S 235/75R15 (Summer), OEM Aluminum Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 108S (Winter), Lightly Tinted, Soft Tonneau Cover, Ford Receiver Hitch Cover & Lock, Alpine CDM-7829 Head Unit, PPI 4800 Amplifier, Kicker 10" Solo Baric Sub with Custom Box and Kicker Impulse 6.5 Mid & Tweets.
Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean
------------------
1994 F-150 XLT Supercab, Long Box, 302 EFI, Automatic, Royal Blue in and out, Captain Chairs. Chrome Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 105S 235/75R15 (Summer), OEM Aluminum Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 108S (Winter), Lightly Tinted, Soft Tonneau Cover, Ford Receiver Hitch Cover & Lock, Alpine CDM-7829 Head Unit, PPI 4800 Amplifier, Kicker 10" Solo Baric Sub with Custom Box and Kicker Impulse 6.5 Mid & Tweets.
He would have a higher gear, like maybe 3.40 or something now. Thats just a estimate. It does take the engine more to spin, reducing mpgs. I wouldn't think by much though. I went from 30's to 31's and didn't tell a difference. There could be like a tenth. I think factory MA's sustems gained about 10 hp that year (1994). But my boss has a 96 EB with a 302/auto, his is stock and he gets about 16 avg. I'm guessing that the Speed Density system gets more mileage unloaded vs MA. But in stressful operation, the MA gets better mileage (more efficient).
[This message has been edited by Pastmaster (edited 04-14-2000).]
[This message has been edited by Pastmaster (edited 04-14-2000).]
Sorry, wrong direction with the numbers. I was getting 15.5 mpg with a cap and 420 lbs. of weight in the back for the winter months. Took the weight out at the first of April and mileage went up to 17.5 mpg. Last summer went up to Sudbury from Sarnia (cross the river from Port Huron) and averaged about 24 mpg. We were doing around 65-70 mph over an 8 hour cruise with my tonneau cover on and unloaded. Just me and my stereo system and two tanks of fuel. I will be adding a FIPK here in the next week so I will see if mpg will go up after I become use to the extra throttle response.
Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean
------------------
1994 F-150 XLT Supercab, Long Box, 302 EFI, Automatic, Royal Blue in and out, Captain Chairs. Chrome Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 105S 235/75R15 (Summer), OEM Aluminum Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 108S (Winter), Lightly Tinted, Soft Tonneau Cover, Ford Receiver Hitch Cover & Lock, Alpine CDM-7829 Head Unit, PPI 4800 Amplifier, Kicker 10" Solo Baric Sub with Custom Box and Kicker Impulse 6.5 Mid & Tweets.
Have Fun & Keep on Truckin'
Dean
------------------
1994 F-150 XLT Supercab, Long Box, 302 EFI, Automatic, Royal Blue in and out, Captain Chairs. Chrome Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 105S 235/75R15 (Summer), OEM Aluminum Rims 15x8's, Michelin LTX M/S 108S (Winter), Lightly Tinted, Soft Tonneau Cover, Ford Receiver Hitch Cover & Lock, Alpine CDM-7829 Head Unit, PPI 4800 Amplifier, Kicker 10" Solo Baric Sub with Custom Box and Kicker Impulse 6.5 Mid & Tweets.


