More 1/4 times!!!
More 1/4 times!!!
Well I'm am hooked on the track and I can't stop going...but I am gettign better and better at it and so is the truck. Well I went out last night and made 3 passes. The first one was right off the interstate and I ran a 16.6xx and then I hot lapped it and ran a 16.7xx so I let it cool down and on my last run I went:
60 - 2.270
330 - 6.777
1/8 - 10.526
MPH - 65.66
1000 - 13.793
1/4 - 16.601
MPH - 80.08
I was so close to a 16.5xx...but I guess thats for another day lol. I was really happy with the 16.6 and the 80mph...but especially the 2.2 60ft!!!! I ran a Stang GT on that ru nand while he ran a 14.558 I was .01 faster at the 60ft mark!
The truck does so well in 1st gear and pretty good through 2nd, but its all over once I hit 3rd, the rpms stay at 3800 and I just cruise down the rest of the track...I might have a mod that will fix that problem
but I'll talk about that another day. I have to say that I could have pulled a 16.5xx if I would have run again because I shifted out of 2nd to early on the last run but I was still happy! So the headers made a huge difference...I cut my first 2.2 60ft and I did that twice and I dropped my ET by .2 and almost 2mph....SO the long tubes kick a$$! Well I really want to run in the winter...but I will have more mods when that comes around, but I want to make a 15.9xx and I will be so happy lol. So what do yall think?
60 - 2.270
330 - 6.777
1/8 - 10.526
MPH - 65.66
1000 - 13.793
1/4 - 16.601
MPH - 80.08
I was so close to a 16.5xx...but I guess thats for another day lol. I was really happy with the 16.6 and the 80mph...but especially the 2.2 60ft!!!! I ran a Stang GT on that ru nand while he ran a 14.558 I was .01 faster at the 60ft mark!
The truck does so well in 1st gear and pretty good through 2nd, but its all over once I hit 3rd, the rpms stay at 3800 and I just cruise down the rest of the track...I might have a mod that will fix that problem
but I'll talk about that another day. I have to say that I could have pulled a 16.5xx if I would have run again because I shifted out of 2nd to early on the last run but I was still happy! So the headers made a huge difference...I cut my first 2.2 60ft and I did that twice and I dropped my ET by .2 and almost 2mph....SO the long tubes kick a$$! Well I really want to run in the winter...but I will have more mods when that comes around, but I want to make a 15.9xx and I will be so happy lol. So what do yall think?
I think you're in Tundra territory now. That's pretty cool considering one of their selling points was that it was the "fastest full size pickup with the small V8". Now go kick some full size rice ***!!!
Cool. You're getting there. That 2.2 short time is an improvement but it's still not real good. You need to get into the 2.0 second range. ("Perfect" is 1.9 on street tires.) The first time you hit a 2.0, you will be amazed at how much harder a launch it really is. Slow launches are due to a lack of power, a lack of traction, poor technique or a combination of all three. If it's lack of power, you'll solve that on your own
How's your traction? Are you getting any wheelspin or is the truck pretty much planting and launching? You can't always tell from the inside; have one of your friends watch your launch, especially the right rear wheel (limited slips only carry about 30% bias) and tell you if you're spinning. If you are then you need to improve either your tires or your weight transfer. Have you tried airing your rears down to 30 PSI like I suggested? You really don't want to take radials a lot lower than that but it will give you just a little more bite. Traction bars are possibly the next step.
What about technique? Are you staging consistently. It doesn't matter whether you go deep or shallow (Deep will produce better short times, shallow will produce better ETs) just so you do it the same every time. You have to have a baseline to work from. With an automatic and a slightly hotter converter, you're probably not bogging off the line. Have you tried both torque-braking and flashing the converter on launch? Is there any difference in short times?
How's your traction? Are you getting any wheelspin or is the truck pretty much planting and launching? You can't always tell from the inside; have one of your friends watch your launch, especially the right rear wheel (limited slips only carry about 30% bias) and tell you if you're spinning. If you are then you need to improve either your tires or your weight transfer. Have you tried airing your rears down to 30 PSI like I suggested? You really don't want to take radials a lot lower than that but it will give you just a little more bite. Traction bars are possibly the next step.
What about technique? Are you staging consistently. It doesn't matter whether you go deep or shallow (Deep will produce better short times, shallow will produce better ETs) just so you do it the same every time. You have to have a baseline to work from. With an automatic and a slightly hotter converter, you're probably not bogging off the line. Have you tried both torque-braking and flashing the converter on launch? Is there any difference in short times?
Re: More 1/4 times!!!
Originally posted by beastie
Well I really want to run in the winter...but I will have more mods when that comes around, but I want to make a 15.9xx and I will be so happy lol. So what do yall think?
Well I really want to run in the winter...but I will have more mods when that comes around, but I want to make a 15.9xx and I will be so happy lol. So what do yall think?
Good Job- and i'm sure you'll get there.
Trending Topics
Thanks for the responses guys! It is a work in progress.
Strange....
Traction was good. I cant be certain but I think I was hooking and going with no tire spin...but it is hard to tell, I will get a friend to watch next time. I forgot to let the air out of the tires, but they probably only have a around 32psi in them anyways...but I will take your advice next time. I try to stage consistantly...shallow if I can. And I have tried both torque-braking and flashing the converter, and flashing is better...if I torque brake no matter what rpms between 800-1800 I get 2.4 60ft. SO flashing it has always worked best for me. but its hard for me to get a good r/t when I flash it, because it does take the engine soem time to rev to 2200 and go...so I think i will start going on the 2nd yellow. We have the LED staging tree at the track so a .000 is perfect.
Strange....
Traction was good. I cant be certain but I think I was hooking and going with no tire spin...but it is hard to tell, I will get a friend to watch next time. I forgot to let the air out of the tires, but they probably only have a around 32psi in them anyways...but I will take your advice next time. I try to stage consistantly...shallow if I can. And I have tried both torque-braking and flashing the converter, and flashing is better...if I torque brake no matter what rpms between 800-1800 I get 2.4 60ft. SO flashing it has always worked best for me. but its hard for me to get a good r/t when I flash it, because it does take the engine soem time to rev to 2200 and go...so I think i will start going on the 2nd yellow. We have the LED staging tree at the track so a .000 is perfect.
Flashing is MUCH less abusive on the tranny than torque-braking so if it works, by all means, use it. Shallow is also good. Once you work out when to leave and can do it consistently you'll cut better ETs, it just takes a little more practice on the start line.
Sounds like all yo really need is more power
Sounds like all yo really need is more power
Torque Braking is when you hold down the brake pedal and push on the accelerator and make the engine rev to a certain rpm...the torque converter is just slipping during this time....its just power braking...just not getting the rpms up high enough to spin the tires.
Flashing the converter is when you mash the gas off the line and the engine revs up and takes off. Like I have a 2200 stall converter so if I do like I said above, the engine revs to 2200 and then it takes off. It only does this at WOT. I think the stall on a stock converter is 1800 or so...so yours will flash at 1800 and go.
Flashing the converter is when you mash the gas off the line and the engine revs up and takes off. Like I have a 2200 stall converter so if I do like I said above, the engine revs to 2200 and then it takes off. It only does this at WOT. I think the stall on a stock converter is 1800 or so...so yours will flash at 1800 and go.
Generally, manual trannies are a hair quicker but they are also far less consistent. Once you get your launch worked out with an automatic, you'll run the same ET lap after lap. If you're bracket racing, it doesn't matter if you're turning an 18.3 or an 11.7. all that matters is that you run your dial-in every time. That's much more easily done with an automatic.
A fully race-built automatic is usually as quick as or even quicker than a manual, but you'd never want to attempt to drive one on the street. The part-throttle shifts would loosen the fillings in your teeth.
A fully race-built automatic is usually as quick as or even quicker than a manual, but you'd never want to attempt to drive one on the street. The part-throttle shifts would loosen the fillings in your teeth.


