Help with the truck:
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 153
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Help with the truck:
I need help guys. Today my truck started to stutter when I accelerate. it happens in first, and drive gears. I noticed a loss in power also.
I also hear a squeak noise from under the truck when it moves slowly.
The engine doesn't stutter when it is in neutral. it stutters only in drive.
gear changes are smooth and are normal. the truck sounds fine and it isn't idling rough.
I'm thinking it is something to do with the drive shaft. It is something that moves....thats for sure...
It is a 95 2 wheel drive ext cab long box with a tow package.
Thanks,
Pete
I also hear a squeak noise from under the truck when it moves slowly.
The engine doesn't stutter when it is in neutral. it stutters only in drive.
gear changes are smooth and are normal. the truck sounds fine and it isn't idling rough.
I'm thinking it is something to do with the drive shaft. It is something that moves....thats for sure...
It is a 95 2 wheel drive ext cab long box with a tow package.
Thanks,
Pete
Senior Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Pete,
Check out your driveline and rear brakes. You can kill two birds with one stone by simply blocking the front wheels good, then jacking up the rears and spinning them one at a time.
I just tracked down a crappy rear drum causing a problem. On the drum there is more or less a "U" that overlaps the backing plate. That area had all kinds of rust, and the two overlapping surfaces were binding. In the case of my it was also warped.
I cleaned mine up and loosened the adjustor to make sure that was the problem side. I picked up another drum, just have to stick it on over the weekend.
The "stutter" may in fact be the brakes grabbing, and not the engine misfiring. If you have any steep hills that would maintain speed well, put the truck in neutral and see if you get the stutter while coasting.
If the brakes are good but the u-joints bad, it should bind when turning either wheel when jacked up. U joints are usually easy... if they are going you can almost always feel the play in them.
Check out your driveline and rear brakes. You can kill two birds with one stone by simply blocking the front wheels good, then jacking up the rears and spinning them one at a time.
I just tracked down a crappy rear drum causing a problem. On the drum there is more or less a "U" that overlaps the backing plate. That area had all kinds of rust, and the two overlapping surfaces were binding. In the case of my it was also warped.
I cleaned mine up and loosened the adjustor to make sure that was the problem side. I picked up another drum, just have to stick it on over the weekend.
The "stutter" may in fact be the brakes grabbing, and not the engine misfiring. If you have any steep hills that would maintain speed well, put the truck in neutral and see if you get the stutter while coasting.
If the brakes are good but the u-joints bad, it should bind when turning either wheel when jacked up. U joints are usually easy... if they are going you can almost always feel the play in them.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 153
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Originally posted by signmaster
Pete,
Check out your driveline and rear brakes. You can kill two birds with one stone by simply blocking the front wheels good, then jacking up the rears and spinning them one at a time.
I just tracked down a crappy rear drum causing a problem. On the drum there is more or less a "U" that overlaps the backing plate. That area had all kinds of rust, and the two overlapping surfaces were binding. In the case of my it was also warped.
I cleaned mine up and loosened the adjustor to make sure that was the problem side. I picked up another drum, just have to stick it on over the weekend.
The "stutter" may in fact be the brakes grabbing, and not the engine misfiring. If you have any steep hills that would maintain speed well, put the truck in neutral and see if you get the stutter while coasting.
If the brakes are good but the u-joints bad, it should bind when turning either wheel when jacked up. U joints are usually easy... if they are going you can almost always feel the play in them.
Pete,
Check out your driveline and rear brakes. You can kill two birds with one stone by simply blocking the front wheels good, then jacking up the rears and spinning them one at a time.
I just tracked down a crappy rear drum causing a problem. On the drum there is more or less a "U" that overlaps the backing plate. That area had all kinds of rust, and the two overlapping surfaces were binding. In the case of my it was also warped.
I cleaned mine up and loosened the adjustor to make sure that was the problem side. I picked up another drum, just have to stick it on over the weekend.
The "stutter" may in fact be the brakes grabbing, and not the engine misfiring. If you have any steep hills that would maintain speed well, put the truck in neutral and see if you get the stutter while coasting.
If the brakes are good but the u-joints bad, it should bind when turning either wheel when jacked up. U joints are usually easy... if they are going you can almost always feel the play in them.
Pete
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 153
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Originally posted by ccnseven
Do you still feel a power loss?
Do you still feel a power loss?
Pete
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Joined: May 2000
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Pete,
At least U joints are fairly quick and easy to do. I've been wanting to replace mine.
I've found in the past the u joints will sometimes loose all their grease and/or bearings and still not clunk and make a lot of noise. Sometimes you can tell they are bad, sometimes not.
I have a friend that had one go not to long ago on his F-150. When doing something else, he noticed the grease had all thrown out on the underside of the body. With the wheels jacked up they turned without much resistance. The joints passed the wiggle test.
When he replaced them the forward one was shot. I guess the leverage and weight of the wheel and tire can be deceiving.
At least U joints are fairly quick and easy to do. I've been wanting to replace mine.
I've found in the past the u joints will sometimes loose all their grease and/or bearings and still not clunk and make a lot of noise. Sometimes you can tell they are bad, sometimes not.
I have a friend that had one go not to long ago on his F-150. When doing something else, he noticed the grease had all thrown out on the underside of the body. With the wheels jacked up they turned without much resistance. The joints passed the wiggle test.
When he replaced them the forward one was shot. I guess the leverage and weight of the wheel and tire can be deceiving.