Hi fellas. This has probably been asked and answered a dozen times already, but I'll shoot for #13.

I have a 2001 150 SuperCrew ESOF 4x4. Occasionally I would like to be able to use low range without having the front axle lock in. Anyone know how to do it?

On the older trucks with the manual hubs and transfer case, you just left the hubs unlocked and pulled the lever into 4X4 Low, and you had super slow "grandma gear". This is great for maneuvering into tight places, especially if you need to turn the front wheels to the locks.

I have a 2000 Super Duty 4x4, and by simply cutting one wire and adding a few feet of wire and a switch inside the cab, I can use Low range without the front hubs locking in.

I'm hoping it may be this simple to do to the 150 also. Anyone tried it yet, and if you have, do you have some instructions? I think the two elect. solenoids on the far right of the firewall with the pink and blue vacuum lines connected to them might be where I need to start looking??

Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer.

 

Anybody figure it out yet??

 

I'd advise against doing it. You're opening a can of worms when you get into the electrical system but I guess if you wanna do that to the truck.


On a side note, I don't know why you had to do that to your superduty to get it to work as they all have manual hubs which is just a standard Dana 50 axle.

 

powerstroke73, haven't you ever used low range without locking in the hubs? If the front hubs aren't locked, can take advantage of the gear reduction without having the binding in the drivetrain.

There are lots folks that use 4x4 low (especially with the manual hubs and 4x4 shift lever in the cab) when backing a trailer into a tight place. It is a lot easier on the auto tranny or clutch also.

There is the possibility of busting something if you don't use some common sense.

On the F-250 Super Duty cutting the wire and installing a switch simply keeps the vacuum from being allowed to lock in the hubs when you flip the ESOF switch.

 

Yes I use 2lo on my 86 ranger but thats cause it has manual hubs. I just use that when I'm offroad and don't need 4wd cause I'm running 34s with only 3.45 gears currently. I'm saying that on 97+ F150s its probably going to be a mess dealing with the wiring. Also like I said on your SD you shouldn't have to **** with any wiring as all you have to do is put it in low range and just leave the hubs unlocked.

I've also never had the need for 2lo backing any trailers up ever. You're going to more trouble than its worth since reverse should be low enough gears unless you're running big tires.

 

Maybe you missed the part about me having ESOF? When you move the switch on the dash into 4 high or 4 low the hubs automatically lock. The only way to prevent that is to kill the power to the electric solenoid that opens the vacuum port which in turn locks the hubs.

 

why would someone want 2lo?

 

Start at the beginning and read down. You'll find the answer.

 

I think MitchF150 (or another member who tows a big travel trailer) removes the vacuum solenoid and it gives him 2Low. Try searching.

 

Holy thread resurrection Batman!!

Since this was discussed, I have developed a simple switch that can make it happen without too much difficulty. I posted the schematic a while back... I'll see if I can still find it...

Bingo!



-Joe

 

Cool! I would use one. Any more details, can I buy the parts?

TT

 

Just remove the linkage on the front axle, works just fine.

 

But then you lose 4high.

 

well it would be just temporary... if thats what he wanted

 

If you don't lock the linkage in either the disengaged or engaged position you are allowing the lock collar to float between the two positions. The same thing occurs when you disconnect the engage solenoid to keep it in the disengaged position. There is no vacuum applied to keep the fork in that position. The floating fork allows the collar to float and grind against the splines in the axles.

JMC

PS I like Joe's switch idea.