Cut red wire going to the solenoid. Using a 30 amp relay. Pin 30 connects to red wire coming from solenoid. Pin 87a connects to red wire going to PCM. Pin 86 and 87 go to ground. Pin 85 comes from a switch that has 12v. Switch off system works like it should. Switch on, grounds the solenoid completing the circuit and keeps vacuum going to the IWEs. With the transfercase in 4x4 with the switch on will keep the wheel hubs unlocked.

 

Thank you! You are my hero.

I will be doing this mod and will post up results.

 

I've done it on my 2006, All you do is pull the top Vacuum line off the shift solenoid on the firewall. Works like a charm, I use it sometimes to back in my trailer in 2lo. No grinding, the hubs have never tried to engage.

 

Would it be possible for you to post up a picture of that? Once I know what I am looking for, I bet I could wire in a vacuum switch to control it from inside the cab.

 

I just had time to look at this. The IWE solenoid on the 2010's only have two wires going to it - one is constant power (GY/RD) and the other goes to the TCCM (BN/BU). I think I need to switch the BN/BU wire to ground/TCCM to achieve hub engage/disengage. I shouldn't need a relay??? Do you agree with my thinking?

BTW, I installed a Raptor TCCM and 4x4 switch to allow turning on the e-locker in 2wd.

Here's a diagram thanks to a member of another forum:



Here's a pic of the IWE solenoid:

 

You are correct the 2010 do not have a red wire. So in my instructions substitute red for BN/BU. I always use a relay as it makes trouble shooting a lot easier and you can use a switch with a built in light to remind you that the circuit is active. If the switch or relay fails or something shorts out the affected truck circuit is short and is not rerouted through the firewall. In a pinch you short the terminals of the relay harness and you are back to stock. Try that with a length of wire that goes through the fire wall and under the dash.....

 

Thanks for explaining the relay - it makes sense.

I appreciate the help.