.,/

 

I wouldn't want to remove the linkage; this would be a temporary use or 2 Low.
Parking my boat in tight spots would make this slick; 4 low causes lots of binding and tire skid.
A switch and a jumper, I like it.

TT

 

I remember way back when my Dad had a '92 F250 5.8l V8, 5 Speed, 4.56 diffs, with a quadruple speed 4x4 manual transfer case with manual locking hubs along with it's cool dual gas tanks. That thing was a freakin' beast.

It was setup like this:

4 Hi
4 Lo
2 Hi
N
2 Lo

 

The old *****'s Jeeps had twin sticks. You could choose 2WD Lo or Hi. There are some others around too. But, since it is Lo, you have to be prudent with the throttle. (Well, maybe not with the old Flathead engines.)

TT

 

Atlas II with twin sticks. Advance Adapters carries them.

JMC

 

I've never disconneced anything so far, but I did read some posts back in 2002 about doing it!!

I've still got Joe's sketch and still would like to make this 'mod'.... Since the road that I back my trailer on is still gravel, I've not bothered yet.... Well, it's gonna be paved soon, so I guess I better figure this deal out!!

Mitch

 

Does the added 12 volts supply to the solenoid cause a problem in the solenoid for the tranfer case Hi-Lo

Could a seprate vac pump on it's own switch T-d into the vac line for the hubs work. that way there would be no binding on pavment. you could still use lo range. The only question would be in the stock solenoid for the hubs.
(When the vac stops is the solenoid shut or open) I doubt it is open so this should work fine. There will be no possible problem with the stock electrical

My 2 cents

Now who works on these truck daily? Will this work?

 

The solenoids have constant vacuum going to them. They also have a constant 12v to them. The GEM completes the ground and energizes one all the while ungrounding the other. The GEM will never energize both of them at the same time. The GEM monitors the current draw of the solenoids and will set a GEM code if they short out or fail to disengage. If you cut the power to the engage solenoid to prevent it from sending vacuum to the shift motor the GEM will fail to complete the electrical circuit and set a code. The shift actuator motor has a double diaphragm working to pull the shift rod in and out. Applying vacuum to one side of the diaphragm will pull the actuator rod to that side.

When vacuum is applied to one side of the diaphragm the vacuum on the other side needs to be vented to allow the rod to move. The solenoids are designed to allow vacuum to pass through to go to the shift motor when they are energized. They are designed to shut off the vacuum source from the engine when deenergized and vent the vacuum in the line to the shift motor to allow the rod to move as previously stated. If you merely open the electrical circuit to the engage solenoid keeping the rod from moving you now have both sides of the diaphragm vented to atmosphere allowing the rod to move about freely. It potentially could partially engage and grind the front lock up collar splines. To be safe you need to apply current to the other solenoid to keep the front axle disengaged.

Sorry for the long post.

.

 

thanks, I was wrong in my thinking?

 

In the case of the 2008 all you need to do is reenergize the vacuum solenoid to disengage the front hubs. A lot easier than the 97 system.

.

 

Sorry to revive this thread, but this is something that I want to do on my 2010. I started a thread on another board asking about the feasibility of this mod. This is the most informative discussion on the topic that I have found.

So, has anyone been successful in implementing this mod to a late model ESOF F150?

 

Switch and a relay would do the trick.

 

I'm electrically challenged and need instructions. :o

What gets switched, etc.? Is there a detailed write-up anywhere.

Thanks

 

None that I know of but give me a day or two and I'll think of something.

 

That would be great - thank you. I can do most mods if I have a recipe.