I replaced the pinion gears just over a year ago. I am getting loud pounding out of the rear again. I am assuming that since I did not replace the clutches before, this is the cause of the new failure. 135K miles

How hard is it to replace the clutches? Any special tools required? Thanks

 

Trac-loc? If so, that is an easy job. Basic hand tools is all you really need. Fairly straightforward job.

 

What do I need to do? I was hearing something about needing special tools to check the pressure on the clutches and needing to soak them in anti-friction.

Do you know of any diagrams or step-by-step with pictures? Thanks, Mike

 

I have seen the procedure written up in service manuals. Checking the pressure is done to determine if they need replacing. Just soak them in gear lube for about a half hour or so. As long as you replace all the clutches and the tension spring, you will be fine and you won't need to measure anything.

 

Thanks 2001Screw4x4. I will be cracking the cover today with spider gears and clutches in hand. It looks like there are discs and spacers. Do they go in any particular order?

If it looks like metal chunks have damaged the ring and pinion, I will consider replacing the unit with a Auburn LS.

Any suggestions on what I will need in a rebuild kit? I saw a couple of different kinds of shims, one interlocking (?). Any preference with bearings? And what about gears? Who makes the best and what should I be looking for?

Am I going to need and special tools? I know about the magnetic base and dial indicator. Anything else? Do I need to press bearings on the pinion shaft? Anywhere else? I thought I saw a Yukon manual for replacing ring/pinions, but can't seem to find it anymore. Any help is appreciated. Thanks again, Mike

 

I replaced the clutch packs this w/e. Fairly uneventful, except for chasing parts. The Ford house set me up with the clutches and a non-locking set of spider (they call them pinion) gears. The spider gears should have a set of teeth opposite of the gears for the steel to engage.

I soaked the clutches. Then I removed the gears. I kept them assembled as a model. I removed the space and measured it with calipers. I replaced the spacer with the new ones supplied. The I stacked them pad, steel, steel, pad, steel, steel, pad, gear. I found out that Ford Racing has a more aggressive clutch, using carbod fiber. May try that next time.

The spider gears have a couple of copper rings. I finally found out that these are used a temporary retainers, fitting in the slot where the C clip goes. Good luck to all who venture here.

 

I'm probably going to be doing the same to my truck and was just wondering what you had in the whole project time and cost wise? Any advice would be appreciated.--DIY

 

Be sure you get spider gears (Ford calls these Pinion Gears) that are for a LS differential, if yours is LS. I think the difference is in the last letters, GA instead of FA.

I also found a Ford dealer that was willing to sell to me 40% over cost. When I told the dealer closest to me about this, they said, "The best we can do is 25% off list." I didn't know that dealers discounted, but I do now.

I think I was just above $200 on this project, but didn't keep close tabs. Time should be a couple of hours if you know what you are doing. This is the second time I have done this, so it went faster this time.

As far as procedure goes, start soaking your clutches in friction modifier. Next, I removed the cover and drained. With the truck fully secured, I put it in neutral so that I could rotate the carrier to access the parts inside. Then I took the C Clips off, pushed the axles back so the S Spring would clear. Then you have to wrangle the s spring out. No tricks that I could find, just pry, pull, and tug. Next remove the pinion shaft bolt, and slide the pinion shaft out. If you are going to replace the gears, keep the pinion shaft not the bolt. There should be a new one in the kit.

Next, rotate an axle so that the side gears kick out the spider gears. There should be a washer/race for each of the spiders. If you are going to reuse these gears, mark them for placement, right/left, top/bottom. I would replace them in the same order. May not be necessary, but why not take the extra time just in case.

With the gears out, you should be able to see the clutch packs. Pull them out and keep them in order. I put mine back in the same order, but there is some talk about using a different order. But you will see steel and clutch pieces, and towards the outermost part of the carrier, there will be a shim. Take a caliper and measure it. My clutch pack had 3 sets of shims. I used the same size that came out.

Now get your clutches and steel and start putting them on the side gears. There are teeth on the outside of the gear and these parts will engage these teeth. After your clutches are on, put the appropriate sized spacer on. Then put these in the carrier. The tabs fit in the slot for in the carrier. This will make more sense when you see the clutches coming out of the carrier. Just rotate them until they it. Make sure to slide the axles in place, too.

When both sides are in, you will need to put the spider gears on the top and bottom. One will go on the front of the carrier, the other will go on the back of the carrier. Just the reverse order they came out when you spun the axle. One you get these in place, spin a wheel. The need to be where you can get the pinion shaft to slide through. Once you have the pinion shaft in, bolt it back in place.

Now you are going to have to deal with the s spring. Again, no fancy tricks. Make sure the axles are not protruding past the gears, and bang it into place. I talked to the dealer's axle guy and he said this is how it is done. It works. Once the spring is in place, put the c clips back on and put the cover back on. Filler up and go. Good luck, Mike

 

Thanks a ton. Doesn't sound too bad. I'll let you know how it goes. Thatnks again for the advice.--DIY