I was checking the maint schedule for my new Expy and noticed it doesn't say anything about repacking the front wheel bearings (2WD) until 60k miles. My other vehicles require this nasty job every 30k. Am I missing something?

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2000 Expedition XLT, 5.4, 3.31 Rear axle, 4R100, no other mods

 

Good Question. That does seem strange. I always have done it at 30k on all non-FWD. Repacking wheel bearings and replacing grease seals on 2WD is pretty easy. 4WD is more work, with hubs to disassemble. I've taught a bunch of people how to re-pack bearings by hand. With a bit of instruction, they get the hang of it on the second one. On the new 2WD trucks, the bearing pre-load and set procedure is getting a bit long (while spinning clockwise, torque to xx, then CCW to yy, then CW to zz, etc. More like opening a safe).
"ahh... I love the smell of fresh grease in the morning"

 

Just did mine last weekend at 32,945. I had never done the job so I had two friends that said they knew how. One had me taking off the wrong bolts on the caliper and then they both drank my beer while I did the work.

On my 97 F-150 2WD I needed an 18 mm socket to get the brakes out of the way. Most socket sets go from 15, 17 & 19 mm. One friend did have an 18. I will buy one soon.

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97 F-150, 2WD, Reg Cab,Flareside,Dk Toreador Red, Windsor 4.6, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Bosch Plat +4s, 3.55 LS, EGR Bug Deflector, ******* Bed Cover, Bed Liner, XL Full Length Running Boards, Air Aid Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back, Superchips, TransGo Shift Kit, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs

 

I personally repacked my wheel bearings every 20,000 mi.. Something to be aware of, the outer wheel bearing race is made of teflon. Now I am sure that the Ford engineers are completely confident in the product material, however I have replaced both the outer bearings with Timken units that use no synthetic materials. Just my 2¢

Jeff

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Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II


[This message has been edited by beechkid (edited 02-15-2000).]

 

Beechkid - Ford has been using wheel bearings with a teflon roller-spacer for the last ten years or so on many of its products. The spacer (sometimes called a "cage") just keeps the rollers apart, and doesn't really carry load. But I know what you mean, the first time I saw them I was a bit leery. Seem to be OK, though. But for replacements, I use Timkin that are all-metal too.
Tenderpaw - We used the "feel" technique for years. But then mfgrs. becan to specify a pre-load to "set" the bearing first (while turning wheel, tighten to xx ft/lbs, then back off y part of a turn, then tighten to z in/lbs., or hand tighten to next available spot, flipping locking sheet metal lock both ways for closest cotter pin location). But the new Fords have another step in there, with rotating wheel this way and that. I had to write it down, no way I could remember! I'll look it up later and post back.

 

Granpa-
You've probably seen this, but Lisle makes a handy bearing packing tool that has a grease zerk. I want to say it's something like $6 or $7, it's a little more thorough than what most can do by hand and a lot less messy.

Beechkid-
Did you order this truck? I'd be interested to see the window sticker.

Quote:

Ok guys, here it is......
Engine trans package code is 99L, then order with the deletion of optional payload package #2 (standard with 99L) and that allows the auto trans to be deleted..

Ah Ha...I am the salesguy's worst nightmare!!!

Goodluck everyone with ordering it!


Jeff

[This message has been edited by Ford man (edited 02-20-2000).]

 

hey granpa did you get that torque recipe yet i'd like to print it out ......thanks

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pacific green 97 f150 4.6l..reg cab flareside 150XLT ,ROUSH suspention down 3 fr and3.5rear with BILSTIEN shocks,3.55LS,snug lid,carpeted bed, painted tailight accents,4x4 grill &bumper,k&n,SUPERCHIP(THANX MIKE),poweraid,ram air kit,valvoline synthetic,accel super stock wires,platinum plus4 plugs,flow master muff,blue halogen bulbs, speed-glo dash,carbon fiber gauge accent,..."#6 sticker!!!!"
STEREO:eclipse head unit ,boston seperates ,orion amp, pioneer amp,2-orion 12's,custom box by me!,sony adjustable crossover,1 farad cap&way to many cd's



[This message has been edited by ROUSHFAN-1 (edited 02-15-2000).]

 

How about a comment from a one-time brake mechanic. Re-pack the front bearings at every front brake job. This usually comes close to about 30 - 40K and represents a convenient way to remember.

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BLK 2000 F150 XLT 4X4 SuperCab SB, Shift-on-the-fly, 5.4L, 4R70W, 3.55 LS, 4-Wheel disc/ABS, ORP, Keyless, PWR Seat, Slider, Soft tonneau, Cab steps.
MODS: Rhino, Molded flaps, Mobil1 0W-30

 

Hey Granpa, tell me more about the bearing preload procedure. I usually just tighten the nut snug, then loosen, and torque to specs. Before I had a torque wrench, I just used the "feel" technique.

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2000 Expedition XLT, 5.4, 3.31 Rear axle, 4R100, no other mods

 

Front Wheel Bearing Adj. Procedure for 4x2 97-on F-150:

1.) While rotating rotor Clock Wise, tighten nut to 40 NM (30 Ft/lbs).

2.) While rot. CW, loosen 2 turns.

3.) While rot. CCW, tighten to 23-40 NM (17-24 Ft/lbs).

4.) While rot. CW, loosen 1/2 turn.

5.) While rot. CW, tighten to 2 Nm (17 INCH/lbs, NOT foot/lbs!).

6.) Install nut retainer & cotter pin.

My Inch/lb torque wrench won't go down to 17, so I tighten by fingers there. Look's like they seat the bearing both rotating CW, then do it again rot. CCW. This is the most complicated procedure I have seen for adj. wheel bearings! But, since I've got it, I'll do it.

[This message has been edited by Granpa (edited 02-16-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Granpa (edited 02-16-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Granpa (edited 02-16-2000).]

 

Ford man - Thanks, I've seen the grease packer cones. But I hate grease guns, and I'd have to load the grease of my choice into one each time. I also like the fact that when doing it by hand, that I can see the new grease extrude out the small side of the bearing between each roller, so I know it got through each opening before I turn the inner bearing part to spread the grease.
Thanks anyway.

 

Grampa,

does this proceedure, also apply for the 1998 F-150 2WD?

Thanks F&B's

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98 F-150 XLT, SC, SWB, 2WD, Pac. Grn., 4.2L auto, 4.10 gears w/ LS, Tow Pkg., BFG AT's 265/75/16, K&N air filter, Dynomax muffler, Superchip, Edelbrock shocks, Hellwig sway bar, 3" body lift, signal mirrors, ...tons of cosmetic products

 

I've got one of the little gease "cones", they work great. You can see the grease coming out of all the openings in the cage.

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1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B. 5.4L, 3.55 LS
and everything but the leaky slider window.
Bright red w/ gold 2-tone, Leather Captain's Chairs
Mods: Duraliner bedliner, Bugflector II, Hide-a-hooks.
& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.

 

Where can I find one of these "handy" bearing packing tools?

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2000 F-150 XLT Sport
Silver
4 door Supercab, Short Bed (Only way to fit in the garage)
17" Sport Wheels with BFG tires
4.6l V8, Auto Transmission (First one in 20 years)
In-Dash Single CD Player

Hopes and Dreams:
K&N Filter
WMS Velocity Tube
FlowMaster Exhaust
Nerf Bars




[This message has been edited by Y2kXLTSport (edited 02-17-2000).]

 

Any auto parts store or tool dealer who carries Lisle Tools will have one of the cone tools; i.e., Pep Boys, O'Reilly Auto Parts, Cornwell Tools, Sears, etc.