Nice, haven't had to fool with mine yet luckily.

 

OK, went to Ford & bought the pinion seal and boy am I glad, this seal is awesome. I'm glad I listened to you all & not bought the AZone stuff etc.

1. I forgot to ask the pinion nut size? I know my Jeeps are 1 1/8". I bet Ford is 1 1/4" but not sure, most likely will have to buy a socket.
2. Also, mentioned here on this thread was the friction additive and it not needed so I didn't get any. Should I since I have a LSD?

BTW-the seal is already packed w/grease

Here U go:


Notice the grease & the "O" ring on the outer casing. Should seal nice w/some Super 300.


Part numbers for the '97, 8.8 rear, 2WD if needed.

 

P.S. Napa wanted 24 bucks a qt for the full synthetic, AZone 14 & change, Wally world 10 bucks & change. I usually get the high grade stuff but if memory serves only a few companies make the stuff etc.

 

That cheap stuff is not a Synthetic fluid!.....

 

I guess I either can't read or U know something I don't. Please enlighten me so I don't use this if it's garbage. This is what I bought from Wally-world.

 

If you have an LSD you DO need the friction modifier. I use Royal Purple exclusively throughout the 4WD drivetrain. It already has the FM in it. Taking that into consideration, the stuff isn't so bad. I think it's usually shelved at O'Reilly for around $12-14 / qt. Take that junk back and swap it toward a box of ammo.

 

Thanks,

Pinnion nut size & torque?

 

It's a little more involved than I thought. No worries about the nut size...you can stop by O'Reilly for the appropriate socket and RP diff. fluid on the way back from the dealership again. :o

Copy / Paste from Factory Service DVD for 2001 F-150 8.8: (I'm sure it's the same for 9.75)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Drive Pinion Flange

Special Tool(s) 2-Jaw Puller
205-D072 (D97L-4221-A) or equivalent
Holding Fixture, Drive Pinion Flange
205-126 (T78P-4851-A)
Installer, Drive Pinion Flange
205-002 (TOOL-4858-E) or equivalent

Material Item Specification
SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant
F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent WSL-M2C192-A

Removal

All vehicles


Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
NOTE: The rear wheels and brake drums/calipers must be removed to prevent brake drag during drive pinion bearing preload adjustment.

Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Vehicles with drum brakes


Remove the rear brake drums. For additional information, refer to Section 206-02 .
Vehicles with disc brakes


Remove the rear disc brake caliper. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
Wire the rear disc brake caliper aside.
Remove the rear brake disc.

Mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.

Remove the four driveshaft bolts.

CAUTION: The driveshaft centering socket yoke fits tightly on the rear axle pinion flange pilot. Never hammer on the driveshaft or any of its components to disconnect the yoke from the flange. Pry only in the area shown with a suitable tool to disconnect the yoke from the flange.

Using a suitable tool as shown, disconnect the driveshaft centering socket yoke from the rear axle pinion flange.
Position the driveshaft out of the way.

Install an inch-pound torque wrench on the pinion nut and record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.

CAUTION: After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.

Using the special tool, hold the pinion flange and remove the pinion nut.

Mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to make sure of correct alignment during installation.

Using the special tool, remove the pinion flange.

Installation

All vehicles


Lubricate the pinion flange splines with rear axle lubricant.
NOTE: Disregard the scribe marks if a new pinion flange is being installed.

Align the pinion flange with the drive pinion shaft.

With the drive pinion in place in the rear axle housing, install the pinion flange using the special tool.

Position the new pinion nut.

CAUTION: Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.

CAUTION: Remove the special tool while taking preload readings with the Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench.

Using the special tool hold the pinion flange, tighten the pinion nut.
Rotate the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating correctly.
Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut.
Rotating the pinion through several revolutions, take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained.
If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specifications for used bearings. If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded. For additional information, refer to Torque Specifications in this section.

Position the rear driveshaft and align the marks on the pinion flange.

CAUTION: The driveshaft centering socket yoke fits tightly on the rear axle pinion flange pilot. To make sure that the yoke seats squarely on the flange, tighten the bolts evenly in a cross pattern as shown.

Install the bolts.

Vehicles with drum brakes


Install the rear brake drums. For additional information, refer to Section 206-02 .
Vehicles with disc brakes


Install the rear brake disc.

Install the rear disc brake caliper. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .

 

Wow, I never took the brakes drums off for a seal. I guess I'll re-read it a little closer. Thank you,

 

I'm sure it's just to get accurate in/lb readings, but I'm sure if you paid attn., went by feel and used blue loc-tite on the old pinion nut, you'd be better off than most of the people on the road that took their truck to the dealership or mom & pop shop. I'd probably get the nut and crush sleeve though anyway.

Check this thread out:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...inion-nut.html

 

I agree, I'll get some friction additive etc. & try to take some pics of the install if I don't run out of batteries for the camera.

Thanks again,

 

What you've just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.

 

yeah,,,thats absolutley crazy..i noticed his account was suspended. Maybe he was refering to his riding lawn mower or the old banjo rearend in a 46 ford!!! For the folks buying $8 wallyworld gear oil,,,why? I'm trying royal purple for the first time, on the last one i did. it was around $16 ea. at o-riellys, and Napa had Valvoline at $18-19 bucks ea. I would not trust 8 $ oil for prob. a one time oil change! Does anyone know who makes their "Tech" branded oil? I realize part of it is your paying for name brand, what the heck , doing this one time? (probably) its not like changing your engine oil every 3-5000 miles or whatever. I'm a fanatic about name brands. Engines, trannys and rear ends cost too much to repair, to save a few bucks on oil. My .02....rossford

 

That is something I would like to find out.


I am also, all I use is Valvoline. Just thought I would give this a shot/look into it. I do not use Synthetic oils, I'm a dyno man so this might explain my ignorance. Yes, I've been around the block but have always stuck w/my dyno oils. Old dogs are hard to train so I'm really stepping out here w/my sons truck.
P.S. The tag says synthetic oil and I did add some dyno to it a while back & didn't even see the tag until Jr. pointed it out to me. OOPSsssssss.

 

Nice link, thanks.

I've had people tell me just to run it down a/impact air wrench & good to go since I wouldn't be changing anything. They stated, "all U R doing is re-tightening it" U aren't changing any specs cause U didn't remove any shims. (bang head against the wall)