Thunder- my hats off to you for wanting to get down and dirty! You will find wrenching on your truck fun and invoking a real sense of pride. Nothing feels better than “A job well done.” I’m no expert at wrenching so I purchased a Maintenance Manual at AutoZone or Checker, can’t remember which one for around $16. They have good visual aids and are comprehensive. I read mine front to back in a week or so. I use it every time I work on Hoss. It is one of the most important tools in my toolbox. You will also find good advice on this web site; most of these guys know their stuff.

Good luck little lady, and here’s a beer for you!

 

That's exactly what I need, a good manual in full detail including pictures. Thanks for the advice. I can't wait to learn enough stuff to tackle my truck myself. I've done a few things myself and you're right, it feels great!

 

ThunderCat,

Don't do ANYTHING that piperc has posted!!


Max,

I'm glad you responded to piperc and said what you did..... I went through the same 'bad advice' he was dishing out in that oil viscosity thread......... I've also seen some of his other posts and I just don't get where the guy is coming from..... He has come on here, giving bad advice and at the same time offended a large number of long time members at the same time!

I tried to give him a break and was willing to "overlook" my initial thoughts, but this last one has done it for me...... The guy just does not have a clue..... I would have at least thought he'd use 20w50 in the rear diff!!!

I'm glad he is saving ninety cents on 3 qts of MOTOR OIL to put in his diff when it'll cost him hundreds to replace the thing sooner or later....... "should the oil be black when it drains out?"..... Classic......

Mitch

 

Yes, it should be very black, smell burnt and be the consistency of molasses.... that way you know you're getting your 90 cents worth!!!

 

Max

You wouldn't happen to know the torque specs on the rear cover bolts would you??

 

TPC - I checked in the Ford factory manual - it's 33 lbs/ft for the cover bolts and 22 lbs/ft for the filler plug....

 

Mike you are the man!! I need to finish this little project this weekend. I already changed the front differential gear oil and transfer case fluid. We are supposed to get some snow tomorrow night (northwest PA) so I need to get this done.

Thanks again.

 

TPC11, make sure you are able to get the fill plug out first before you remove the cover.Believe it or not I have seen these plugs not want to come out!

BTW,I cant believe someone would be so ignorant as to post about putting 10W40 oil in a differential! I only pray he was just kidding and actually did not do that! If so,his differential is toast by now!

 

GGEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZZZ!!! sorry every one, just trying to put a little laugh into this page. sorry, DONT USE 10W40 IN THE REAR DIFF!!!! forgive me for that one. by the way, i never meaned to "offend" any long time members on this page. i apologize

 

Good tip Blueovalfitter. I made sure I removed the fill plugs on the front differential and the transfer case first. Wouldn't that suck not being able to get those out with the case already empty. Just another tip, make sure you clean the fill and drain plugs very well. My front differential drain plug was nasty. Also use a spot of silicone or thread tape before re-installing.

I liked the comment about the 10w-40. I worked with a girl a couple of years ago who never changed the oil in her car that her mom and dad got for her brand new for college. 64,000 miles later her new boyfriend went to change it for her and it came out like toothpaste. No offense to the women on this board. Men can be a little retarded as well.

 

Good Day, I am going to change out my diff fluid today (1997 F-150, 250K, LS, 2wd) cause it's making some noise. I'm glad I read about Wally worlds prices. I am also going to change out the rear pinion seal (starting to leak) and I have just a few questions.

1. Do I need three or two qts. I do like an extra but I'm use to smaller diffs.
2. What is the ft.lb of torque on the pinion nut for the re-install of it due to replacing the seal?

Thanks,
Jim

 

Believe it's 3 qts. Seems like 3 + change but it's been a while. My spider gears had some badly chipped / missing teeth at 75k mi. so I wouldn't be surprised if that's the noise you're hearing. It's easy to spend someone else's money, but honestly I would invest in Ford Racing gears and a Cobra LS (if 8.8"). That way all the bearings / seals are replaced all for about $300 labor. The gears and LS can be found pretty cheap and nothing beats the performance they offer cept maybe a pos. dis. blower.

 

Thank a lot, I'll get four qts.

#2 ?

 

Dunno on #2 because I let the shop do it. ...however I used the Ford Racing pinion seal which turned out to be a National Seal brand and it leaked almost immediately. Had to swap it out with a Motorcraft seal. What I'm getting at is you'd be better off ordering an OEM from the parts counter. ...no O'Reilly / Advance Auto junk.

I can check my factory service DVD when I get home if you haven't figured it out by then.

ALSO...on the rear diff. cover, now I only use the Motorcraft silicone sealant that's like $20 per tube...not cheap, but supposedly nothing tops it. First time I changed the fluid though I used Permatex gray for Acura's I think...no problems. (was suppose to be far better than the other Permatex stuff) Either way I'd let it setup overnight before driving, but this isn't necessary with the Motorcraft goo.

 

Thanks, I also use "Super 300 black" when I install my seals. It helps a ton, especially on the rear mains, keeps'em from leaking & the stuff never dries.

Got to run out for a while, I'll checkback, thanks.

Here is an example of the stuff on the T-case.