Best Body Cutting Tools?

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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 06:25 AM
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Best Body Cutting Tools?

What is the best tool to make precision cuts and straight lines on body panels (i.e. fenders, quarter panels, etc.).

This Dremel XPR looks to be a nice tool but I'm not sure if it would cut into that kind of material and I do not believe it would be very easy to keep it straight. Anybody have any ideas on good ways to cut into our vehicles metal, for instance, if you're trying to install speakers into the trucks doors and the holes need to be enlarged, what is a great tool to use? I really like the As Seen On TV products, I just bought the Cold Heat Soldering iron. Dammit, I see that I should have bought the "Pro" version...only 10 bucks more, doesn't say what makes it the next model up.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Josiah
What is the best tool to make precision cuts and straight lines on body panels (i.e. fenders, quarter panels, etc.).

This Dremel XPR looks to be a nice tool but I'm not sure if it would cut into that kind of material and I do not believe it would be very easy to keep it straight. Anybody have any ideas on good ways to cut into our vehicles metal, for instance, if you're trying to install speakers into the trucks doors and the holes need to be enlarged, what is a great tool to use? I really like the As Seen On TV products, I just bought the Cold Heat Soldering iron. Dammit, I see that I should have bought the "Pro" version...only 10 bucks more, doesn't say what makes it the next model up.
If you actually want to cut body steel you use a 'nibbler' cheap at discount tool places, runs off a compressor. It will cut body steel like a hot knife through butter, but your floor gets covered with little sharp bits. For speaker work, since it is just a small amount, avoid power tools. You can cut with a file, taking your time, the metal and plastic involved is very soft.

The little Colman soldering iron is cute, I have one, but it is not for serious soldering.
I have tried to use it on on several jobs and if the wire is 18 gauge or smaller it works OK, but anything thicker after a few minutes I give up and get out the gun.
It would be great for resistors, diodes on a circuit board. Not for serious soldering.
The solder that comes with it is the thinnest I have ever used outside of a lab.
Chris
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 04:40 PM
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A jig saw would work fine, nice precise cuts. I am pretty sure they make smaller bits to. Heck just pull out the PLasma cutter .

How does that Cold Heat Soldering Iron work?

Later
M V
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 05:21 PM
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A jig saw will distort the metal, that's why they developed the nibbler.

Totally cool thing to play with.

The 'cold heat' thing ain't really cold. It uses a couple AA batteries. Rather than heat up a tip, which you then apply to the wire till it gets hot enough to melt the solder as you apply it, the little tip has a gap in it, you put the gap on the wire and current flow heats up the wire at that point, and you feed the super thin solder into the hot spot. Makes a neat little blue spark on touching it. The conductors at the tip are some kind of material that conducts electricity, but not heat so the tip itself is not hot, just the metal it touches.

Chris
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 06:47 PM
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Can you find me a combination of an air compressor + a nibbler (doesn't have to be from the same vendor), for under $250. The cheaper the better. Does the nibbler "crush" the metal via a sharp tip and thats how it applicates a slice in the metal? If thats how it works, doesn't seem like it'd be very good rounding edges.

The reason I am asking for some help finding them is I don't know what compression ratio's, minimum cfm's, etc are good for a nibbler. If you can do this I'd appreciate it. I'm ordering all this before my truck comes in so I have some tools to start tearing up the truck as the mods come in.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 10:59 PM
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Nibblers cost very little,

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46061

some at 29 bucks.
They remove the metal in a strip as wide as the head of the nibbler. A quarter inch or wider. They don't distort, that is why they are used.
Slip with one and your fender can fall off... This is a powerful, serious tool, not a toy.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90234

Anyone working on trucks should have an air compressor.

These are just some, you can beat these prices locally in most big cities. Costco sells great aircompressors, a little more expensive but nice.
These are over kill for most home type work.
What are you planning to mod?
Speaker holes don't need this kind of power.
Chris
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 11:02 PM
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Re read your post, 'rounding edges'? Don't really know what you mean.
After you cut with any tool that does not distort the metal, you will have razor sharp edges.

Can't quite figure what you are working on?
Chris
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 06:43 AM
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Chris, I am speaking of shapes. In other words, if you're cutting a circle speaker hole, are the lines going to be smooth. I wish I could see a tip of these bastards, can you elaborate on how they work. My first understanding was they cut like our teeth do, they chomp down with sharp bits smoothly, kind of like the jaws of life...I think. Anyways, a better explanation would help. I am actually going to order that, thanks. This stuff is quite cheap, hoorah, it's not often I say that these days.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 11:26 AM
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It works by a small steel 'punch' or rod very small (1/8 inch or so) that punches in and out very fast. You can cut a round circle, or an S-shape. I've watched my body guy (old friend, uses my shop and tools on occasion) cut a round hole with it. Takes some practice. Makes a mess, this is a shop tool and clean-up after is a must, or you will have little metal pieces in everything you own.

You can practice on an old computer side panel if you don't have a car body part. This is not a tool you learn on the job, needs a little practice.

I will add a photo or two of the tip; my Photographer has finished her breakfast...
Chris


 

Last edited by ChrisAdams; Oct 24, 2005 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 02:56 PM
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Thanks Chris, I must be very stupid but where is the "bit" on that tip that actually cuts the material.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 03:33 PM
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You are looking at it. It's the shiny shaft in the tip. It pulls up and down very fast. The actual bit or shaft is about an 3/16th inch in diameter. It's all the way forward. Getting it to pull back and hold still while taking a picture is a chore.
So the shiny shaft yanks back into the head, then slams forward very fast. Over and over. It cuts through sheet metal at a good rate, and since you can swivel it around you can cut either towards you or away..

Chris
 

Last edited by ChrisAdams; Oct 24, 2005 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAdams
You are looking at it. It's the shiny shaft in the tip. It pulls up and down very fast. The actual bit or shaft is about an 3/16th inch in diameter. It's all the way forward. Getting it to pull back and hold still while taking a picture is a chore.
So the shiny shaft yanks back into the head, then slams forward very fast. Over and over. It cuts through sheet metal at a good rate, and since you can swivel it around you can cut either towards you or away..

Chris
Thats a clever tool, works like I thought. Grassyass Adams.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 04:34 PM
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Those nibblers are cool, they also make nibblers that has scissor action tips.

About the Jig saw, they make a fine tooth bit for tight radious cuts that work wonders, they fit the air driven saws(its nice to be able to adjust the speeds with air tools) not sure about the electric saws I would'nt doubt it though, they would more than likely distort the material though.

Later
M V
 
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