Big audio upgrade HELP
#1
Big audio upgrade
Hey guys new to the ford community , recently purchased a 2012 f150 platinum supercrew. I absolutely love the truck but the sound system is terrible. I decided to do a full on upgrade minus the head unit as i have NAV and sync (didnt want to lose these features) so heres what im working with
Amps
JL audio 600/4 HD for the components
JL audio 750/1 HD for the sub
Focal KR2 165 Components up front
Focal KR2 coaxials in rear
JL audio 13TW5v2 subwoofer
Audison bit one processor
Full dynamat , 0 gauge wiring
Ok so questions
Do you suggest running new speaker wire or using the factory wires already ran
Is the audison processor something i can handle on my own. Ive installed several audio systems before but always with aftermarket head units , i consider myself pretty tech savvy but a bit nervous about this one.
Any suggestions /feedback /negative or positive is much appreciated.
Thanks for viewing my thread.
Amps
JL audio 600/4 HD for the components
JL audio 750/1 HD for the sub
Focal KR2 165 Components up front
Focal KR2 coaxials in rear
JL audio 13TW5v2 subwoofer
Audison bit one processor
Full dynamat , 0 gauge wiring
Ok so questions
Do you suggest running new speaker wire or using the factory wires already ran
Is the audison processor something i can handle on my own. Ive installed several audio systems before but always with aftermarket head units , i consider myself pretty tech savvy but a bit nervous about this one.
Any suggestions /feedback /negative or positive is much appreciated.
Thanks for viewing my thread.
Last edited by Danny Medeiros; 02-14-2017 at 08:48 PM.
#5
Speaker wires should all be reran with 16 gauge audio oxygen free wire. Depending on power output of the amp 16 gauge can usually handle anything on the mids and highs. The lower the resistance of the wire the more efficient and clean you amp will run. Factory wire is usually around 22 gauge because the receiver's amplifier is no more than 20 watts. Your JL audio 600/4 HD will put out 150 watts @ 4 ohms rms. From what I read on the Audison bit one processor it shouldn't be to crazy if you know how to set an EQ and a few other things. Youtube videos are your friend on that one. To bad it doesn't have a mic like a high end yamaha receiver in your house. It sets the parameters for the listening position. The delay on the sub is usually 0 because the cab is not that big. Don't forget to fuse that 0 gauge within 18 inches of the battery and both amps too. Sounds like it's going to be a nice set up when your done.
#6
Thanks for the advice , i ended up keeping the factory wiring unfortunately.. my instinct said to run new wires but few audio shops around my area said i should be fine and that sony 700watt system uses 18g.
ive completed the install to an extent , i attempted to wire in the audison bit one processor but was beyond confused , i wasnt sure when to grab the signal givin from the factory headunit , i tried before the stock 700 watt amp, no sound , so i intergrated the stock amp into the loop and my sound was the same as stock. Im done with it.. shouldnt of attempted the install myself to be honest. Simple speakers and a sub or amp is my limits , processors and anything more advanced is just not for me. Im beyond depressed and upset with myself , 30+ hours and back to factory amp... Focal speakers are installed however and do sound better . Saturday the truck is going to a bad-*** shop to complete the install with the bit one intergrated and tuned. Im sure it will cost me a **** ton but hopefully the end result is worth it.
here are some more pictures of what i did acomplish
ive completed the install to an extent , i attempted to wire in the audison bit one processor but was beyond confused , i wasnt sure when to grab the signal givin from the factory headunit , i tried before the stock 700 watt amp, no sound , so i intergrated the stock amp into the loop and my sound was the same as stock. Im done with it.. shouldnt of attempted the install myself to be honest. Simple speakers and a sub or amp is my limits , processors and anything more advanced is just not for me. Im beyond depressed and upset with myself , 30+ hours and back to factory amp... Focal speakers are installed however and do sound better . Saturday the truck is going to a bad-*** shop to complete the install with the bit one intergrated and tuned. Im sure it will cost me a **** ton but hopefully the end result is worth it.
here are some more pictures of what i did acomplish
#7
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#10
#12
Everything looks great except the ground in the first picture. You need something better then a few tech screws into the sheet metal. The big stud to the left of it would of been a better choice. They did what appears to be a really nice job then go cheesy on the ground. Did they do the big 3 upgrade. If you have a 0 gauge power cable and your factory grounds are 6 gauge tops then that is a problem. The factory grounds should be bumped up to the same gauge as your power cable going to the distribution block. Beefing up the alternator wire should also be done. A larger alt wire will reduce attenuation/ resistance and make the charging system more efficient. The 2 amps you are running pull at least 110 amps combined continuous. Watts divided by volts = amps. The 0 gauge power is a bit oversized but that is good and gives you future room to expand or upgrade. My recommendation would be to have the ground done better off the distribution block and also upgrade the big 3 to the same gauge as your power wire going to the distribution block. Hopefully they put a fuse within 18 inches of the battery on your power cable too. 0 gauge 1/0 same thing. I'm just saying that the effort to put in quality power cable should be matched in a equal quality ground and big 3.
Heres a great site to help with calculations for those that are lurking and not posting.
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Heres a great site to help with calculations for those that are lurking and not posting.
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Last edited by 01 gt f150; 03-03-2017 at 08:03 PM.
#13
They did not upgrade the factory grounds , i was already into the install for 1500+ and i told him that was my cap . He did mention how my grounds need to be upgraded for sure because the power didn't match the ground and would mean the 0 gauge was pointless.. i will be doing some more work in the near future .
#14
I still think the ground in the first pic is shady at best. I professional shop should of known better. But hey, it's under the carpet where no one can see it unless it gets over heated or comes loose in which case when it starts to spark everyone will know cause your truck will be on fire with all the flammable padding and carpet over it. I know it's unlikely but I've seen it happen all because someone skimped on a $5.00 connector and 5 minutes of time. Anyone on here that has done high end car audio can chime in.
Here's a pic of a simple ground or power lug with gel seal heat shrink.
Here's a pic of a simple ground or power lug with gel seal heat shrink.
#15