So over the course of this winter I will be tearing my 550 pound sub-box out of my back seat, removing my back seat, and glassing in a new box, to the floor, and done properly. I have 4x jl 10w7's running off two mobile audio 1000/1's atm, but am sitting on 4x jl hd750/1s when I'm doing this changeover I'm planning on running the battery into my cab in the back, so I can split 4x 0 guage welding cable off the positive to the amps via two distro-blocks.. the reason for this is this summer I have had alot of issues with fuseboxes melting, due to ****ty stinger wires, as well as too small of wires for the application.

At the same time I'm planning to upgrade my alternator to 0 guage, since although I get very small light dimming now, I'm assuming I'll be getting a lot more once it's all complete.

I've heard rumors that just relocating my battery and just running a new set of lines up to my existing harness may cause issues with the ecu, dunno if it's just people messing with me.. am I better off getting a splitter, and a second battery?


Please no JL hating in this thread.. I don't buy JL because I think I'm hot **** rocking jl badges, I buy jl because I got a good deal on a set of 10w0's years ago, and fell in love with them, and since then have never had an issue with jl products. Everybody has a preferred brand, listen to what you love.

 

If the wires are sized properly, and are quality copper wires (not many of the "amp installation kits" or super duper audio wires are worth much) and connections are made properly I can't see where the battery location matters. Use commercial welding cable. It's voltage and current for crying out loud.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/am...uge-d_730.html

Not sure what you are running for a battery, but I would not be fond of mounting a conventional lead acid (juice) battery in the cab. Sealed battery I could probably live with.

If the battery is in the cab, you would need a long alternator and starter wire, in the OEM location you will need long amp wires. It's all what you want to do...

 

i keep my stalk battery under the hood then in the back seat i have a kinetik hc3800 with 1 0 gauge wire running from the stock to the back then from the back battery i have 0 gauge going to 3 amps. also when you upgrade your alternator wiring do the 2 grounds too. also if you want good 0 gauge you can use knukoncepts its what i got and its oversized

 

Yea planning on going welding cable this time around, had some people tell me it's crap because it's not tinned, so it could oxidize... I'm a commercial plumber/pipefitter so I've dealt with my fair share of welders, and those cables are old, out in snow/rain/mud whatever and seem to do fine.. so, i trust it.

I'm just running an energizer atm, had a optima yellow top crap out on my a year or so ago and they didn't have any redtop/yellowtops to repace it... will be switching when i put it in my cab. Though i've never heard of kinetics before might look into them.

Hoe did you run your battery isolator/where did you get it? Calgary doesn't have a huge car audio scene, everything I know I've learned through trial and error.

 

I work on a lot of different stuff, but make my living working on airplanes. Last install I did was on my son's car. 2 amps (800 rms total) under the front seats. Did the math and used #4 welding cable for all the runs (alternator too). The runs were short so I only used one #4 feed and a terminal block to split it for the amps.

Hardest part of that install was finding a quality high-output alternator. The amps were pulling what the oem alternator was rated at...

I looked at Kinetic batteries then-they are just a smaller sealed battery you put closer to where the juice is needed. Typically they don't run an isolator, just a fuse close to the main battery in the feed wire (just like what you should do on your amp feeds, or on your alternator if you run the remote battery in the cab). If you went that route (and any sealed battery would work for your remote) you could leave your main battery where it sits...

You just need to know what the actual amp draw is going to be and the length of the runs to determine wire (and fuse) size. Anything else is just a waste. Remember the fuse is there to protect the wire.

I use commercial terminals and terminal blocks/fuseholders. Look at a DC tow motor-big amp draws and they need to work all the time. You don't see fancy colored wire and gold-plated distro blocks. If there is a commercial truck/auto electric place you can check out, see how they do it.

Ran out of time, materials, and patience at the same time, so the battery + cable in the picture is an auto big box store cheapie. The rest are commercial solder-type terminals. If you can sweat copper you can torch solder big wires, trust me. Little heat shrink and you are done (takes care of the oxidation argument too).

One fuse is for the alternator, other is the amp feed.

 

I have done a few of these, currently running kinetic batteries front and rear in my expo. 0 gauge OFC power and ground wire run from front to back with quality terminals.

It wasnt mentioned but I have to say it. Do not put an OPEN CELL battery inside the cab of your truck.

I know of 3 good shop in and around Calgary that could help you out if you have more questions: Mobile sounds, ARA Auto and just outside Calgary is Airdrie Auto trends. (I have heard Airdrie's pretty cool)

 

Thanks alot guys, got a lot to work on