I've been collecting components for around 6 months for the install, and finally am getting the free time to do it!

Components include:
* Scanspeak 18w Revelator Mids
* Scanspeak D3004 Illuminator Tweeters
* Zuki Eleet 4 Channel(roughly 175x4@4ohms
* Massive Audio N3 (1400wRMS@1ohm)
* Audison Bitone.1
* Audison SFC41D Distribution Block

Install "Stuff":
* 100 feet Belden 1505f Coax
* 75 feet of 3/4" Carbon Techflex
* 125 feet 3/8" Carbon Techflex
* 100 feet 1/4" Carbon Techflex
* 20 feet 1/0 blue Knuconceptz(positive)
* 10 feet 1/0 black Knuconceptz(negative)
* 10 feet 4ga Blue Knuconceptz
* 10 feet 4 ga Black Knuconceptz
* 100 feet Knuconcepts 12ga Karma Speaker Wire
* 10 5/8" Fastenal Snap Bushings
* 20 1/2" Fastenal Snap Bushings
* 36.5sqft Damplifier Pro(just doing the doors at this point)
* 20sqft 3M Carbon Fiber Vinyl

Whew, quite a list of install stuff.. I've got the amp board and most of the RCA's completed at this time, and will be posting pictures later today. At this point I haven't exactly settled on a sub stage. I was originally going to go with 2 BM's, then I was thinking 2 Alpine SWR-T12's, and then 4 SWR-843D's.. We'll see when the time comes to finally cut the baffles in the sub box.


Zuki, 18w, and D3004


Side shot of the 18w


Amp board in the process of being covered


Amp board completely covered


Completed Amp Board


4 channel RCA's half done


Sub RCA just waiting to for the last 2 RCA's to be soldered on

 

Very nice choices in equipment.

 

I got alittle lazy on Easter Sunday, but I'm back at it today. Plans are to get the amp board wiring completed, and start working on the door baffles, and a couple steel backing plates. The JL ANL fuse holder is going to be mounted on the plastic battery cover, with a backup plate to sandwich the plastic, and act as a nut for the machine screws used to attach the holder. Also on the tweeters, I'm going to cut another steel backing plate to sandwich the plastic in the front window sail panels. All 3 panels will get some black powdercoat for some corrosion protection. Probably also going to give the baffles a bit of black paint as well, after I give them some fiberglass resin to seal them up. I'll post up pics later tonight of the progress.

BTW: I LOVE the Photobucket app for Droid phones, makes this stuff sooo much easier, since I'm using my phone for the pics.. Also using the phone as an RTA, we'll see how that works tho.

 

Ended up being alot more work that I thought... Covering the SFD-41C with the carbon fiber ended up being an experience...lol... But it looks a ton better than the clear bluish color it was before. And yes, I techflex'd the USB cable for the bitone... =)



That's the factory color of the Distro block cover... It would have definitely clashed with all the black.

 

WOW! beautiful job. You've got a great taste for equipment, and trust me you will LOVE the Scans. I still can't get over how good my d3004s sound, you wouldn't ever believe they were a dome tweeter in a blind test.

Now, important question. Where do you plan on installing the speakers, and what direction do you plan to aim them? The scans are great off-axis, but I really recommend NOT putting the tweeters in the factory spot. The stage will have a rainbow effect. I found up on the dash to be best for my tastes.

 

Tweeters will be installed in the front sail panels, like Langlowe did. While probably not optimum, I didn't want to make a pod, since I'm trying to stay "somewhat" stealth.

Today I'm going to start on the doors, and hopefully not get too high from the resin and paint..lol...

Oh, mSall, what are you crossing your D3004's at? I'm going to try starting at 2.25k@24db and work down. With their super low Fs, they should be happy being crossed a bit lower than that.

 

Got the tweeters mounted, and started on the mid baffle, then decided to look at how to run the wire... I'm alittle stumped on how to get two runs of 12ga speaker wire thru that darn connector...

ETA: Well it looks like I won't really be using any of that Karma speaker wire... With the twisted sheathing the stuff is as large as 4 gauge on the OD. I guess I could cut the sheathing to run it thru the door though. Lunch and back to work I go, I guess...lol

 

I started with the d3004s crossed at 2.5k, played around with different setting, moved the xover around a bit. Right now I have them at 4k/12dB and it sounds more natural to me. The mids I use have a very warm, detailed midrange and I like them crossed higher around 3.15k/12dB.

Pics of the tweeters? I'm thinking of putting them in the sails as well to keep a more "stock" look but still better performance than the horrible factory location.

 

I'll get some pics of the tweets when I go back out.. Just reading and looking at some of the molex solutions. Getting 4 12ga wires thru that connector might be a lost cause, so I might do what Arc did, and drill another hole... Hate to do it, but it's probably a better solution that drilling out the molex, and finding out I still don't have enough room

 

 

Here's the tweeter mounted. It's as close to the defroster vent work, as I could get it, but it's actually in almost a perfect spot... Gotta win sometimes!!


Here's the connector from hell:


I'm thinking I'm going to attempt to repin it to get a bit more room, and try drilling it out.

 

Looks good. I think I'm going to put my tweeters there this weekend. I have nightmares about my pods being easily spotted and stolen.

 

Same here. Everything I've put in would be a pita to get out without alot of work.

 

Made some good progress this evening.. I'll let the pictures tell the story..


Here's the molex on the door side taken apart. This is taken apart by releasing the "latch" on the outer black cage, pulling out the front pin keeper, then sliding the rubber boot back. The easiest way to take the individual pins out, is with a dental pick to release the plastic "tab" on the pin, and pulling back on the wire. To insert into the new "pocket" just press the pin in till it "snaps"



A pic of how it all sort of goes together.


This is how the cab side molex looks after 2 pins have been moved to free up a bunch of room...



Here's the door side molex after the hole has been made. I started with a countersinking bit, basically to get a "point" so the drill bit didn't wander nearly as bad. Then I took a 1/4" bit to bore the hole, and afterwards used a small carbide burr with a dremel to finish up the hole.


Here's the truck side molex with the 4 12ga wires fished thru them.


Door side molex.. NOTE: The cam lever is upside down... Found this out after about 10min of swearing, wrestling, sweating, and more swearing..


All buttoned up! You wouldn't know there's a bunch of 12ga wire fished in the boot.


Outer door skin with 3 sheets of damplifier pro in there.. Made quite a bit of difference, especially on the lower part of the door skin.. No more tinging!


Pic of the aluminum flashing that I covered the grand canyon in the door with. NOTE: The wiring harness for the door locks was unsheathed, and attached on the BACKSIDE of the inner door skin, so it was out of the way of the flashing. Made quite a bit of difference


Inner door skin with damplifier. It needs about another half a sheet of mat. The flashing sounds VERY solid after being deadened. I don't believe I'm going to double up or anything, as nothing "tings" it all "thuds".. All told there will be roughly 6.5-7 sheets of mat on each door, which should leave me enough of my 36.5sqft pack to get most of, if not all of the back wall.

Tommorow morning I'll finish the sound deadening, and get the baffle done, then unfortunantly I need to head back down "home" to work for the weekend, before I get another week and a half off...

 

looks very good. i love the "stealth" look im thinking of redoing my system and looking at these pictures just makes me want to do it already! thanks for the motivation!