JL Cleansweep in '10 SCREW?
#1
JL Cleansweep in '10 SCREW?
I want to keep the stock headunit, I don't want to mess with sync and I like the looks. This is the base system, no navigation or Sony garbage. I am replacing the door speakers with coaxials and a 4 channel amp, I will also be adding a sub with a mono 500w amp.
Here comes the part with the problem, where to get the signal from? Sure, a simple pac high-low connector would do the job, but that doesn't take care of the crappy signal being sent from the OEM HU. Even the base unit has built in EQ, it cuts the bass at higher volumes. A JL cleansweep looks to be the perfect component to take care of this. But I have two questions:
1: Is it possible to add this without cutting ANY wires? Does someone out there make an adapter? Even if I have to run speakerwire from each door pigtail to the unit, then from the amp back to the door speakers.....that's fine. Might be alot of work, but cutting wires is NOT an option.
2: The cleansweep only has two output channels. Front and rear......why they didn't make a sub-out is beyond me, but what is the common practice here for adding a sub? Just splicing the rear output channel with a "y" connector?
The only component I have so far is a JL 500/1 Slash amp I will reuse from a previous vehicle. I'm open to suggestions for everything else.
Here comes the part with the problem, where to get the signal from? Sure, a simple pac high-low connector would do the job, but that doesn't take care of the crappy signal being sent from the OEM HU. Even the base unit has built in EQ, it cuts the bass at higher volumes. A JL cleansweep looks to be the perfect component to take care of this. But I have two questions:
1: Is it possible to add this without cutting ANY wires? Does someone out there make an adapter? Even if I have to run speakerwire from each door pigtail to the unit, then from the amp back to the door speakers.....that's fine. Might be alot of work, but cutting wires is NOT an option.
2: The cleansweep only has two output channels. Front and rear......why they didn't make a sub-out is beyond me, but what is the common practice here for adding a sub? Just splicing the rear output channel with a "y" connector?
The only component I have so far is a JL 500/1 Slash amp I will reuse from a previous vehicle. I'm open to suggestions for everything else.
#2
Grab yourself a Metra BT-5520 harness from Sonics. It comes with an extra blue tooth adaptor that you can cut out or leave, but has direct connections between your HU and truck wiring adaptor. All the splicing can be done on this harness outside of the truck and run your wires to your hi-lo converter.
I think you will find that once you put in a decent sub and amp, the high volume bass cut-off becomes less of an issue. I used a Maxxsonics unit which comes with some low frequency adjustments. I looked into the Cleansweep, heard there are some noise issues and for the price, didn't seem worth it. If I went active, would have been my first choice. The MX-1 unit has front/rear and sub outputs.
I think you will find that once you put in a decent sub and amp, the high volume bass cut-off becomes less of an issue. I used a Maxxsonics unit which comes with some low frequency adjustments. I looked into the Cleansweep, heard there are some noise issues and for the price, didn't seem worth it. If I went active, would have been my first choice. The MX-1 unit has front/rear and sub outputs.
#3
While any of the high end sound processors are nice, I used a 4 channel converter with adjustable gains from Best Buy (I think its was a PAC) and a Metra 5520 harness and a Kappa Four amp. I havn't added a sub yet but plan to in the future, and with the gains set right or maybe a little on the high side, I can't get to the bass clipping part of the volume with out possible ear damage!
I am pushing a set of Kappa Components in the front and Coax in the rears at 125 x 4 RMS. All the part numbers are in my signature.
Their are a few threads of what people have done with pictures. I followed them for the most part and did the install myself. I think it took me about 15 hours to do start to finish, but I was also doing it in different stages over 3 weekends. So I lost a lot of time getting tools out and putting them away each time and buttoninh up the truck when I was finished working each time aswell.
I am pushing a set of Kappa Components in the front and Coax in the rears at 125 x 4 RMS. All the part numbers are in my signature.
Their are a few threads of what people have done with pictures. I followed them for the most part and did the install myself. I think it took me about 15 hours to do start to finish, but I was also doing it in different stages over 3 weekends. So I lost a lot of time getting tools out and putting them away each time and buttoninh up the truck when I was finished working each time aswell.
#4
Cool. Thanks fellas. If both of you say it works for you, then I'll try going the cheaper route first. I looked up that harness and some of the nicer converters......but, wouldn't this accomplish the same thing for $45? I have a line driver that I can use after this to boost the signal(can't remember how many outputs it has though), and if it comes down to it, just "y" off the rear channel. yes-no-maybe?
Then if I don't like the results, cut off the converter part, and splice in the Cleansweep.
Then if I don't like the results, cut off the converter part, and splice in the Cleansweep.
#5
I looked at the same LOC but was concerned with getting my amped signal back to the speakers. I used the factory speaker wire and made my connection behind the head unit. I didn't want to cut any factory wires, the extra $30 was worth the trouble in my mind.
Now if you were going to go through the extra effort of drilling out the Molex connectors in the door to run new speaker wire then the above LOC will work great.
For what its worth, my LOC is almost identical except that it has pigtail connections on each end instead of all the connections.
Now if you were going to go through the extra effort of drilling out the Molex connectors in the door to run new speaker wire then the above LOC will work great.
For what its worth, my LOC is almost identical except that it has pigtail connections on each end instead of all the connections.
#6