Are you kidding me? You can see the metal child safety seat latches from 6 feet away....from outside the truck? And why do you need to get your hand back "there"? You can use a screw driver and it will not matter how big your hand is (or isnt).

Here is my article (also referenced above in this thread).
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...08-my-way.html

See the photograph of the interior of the truck. Look at "Step 2". See the metal child safety seat latches peeking out from the crack between the seat bench and the back rest?? Are you telling me you cannot see those when in your truck? You can also see the naked child safety seat latch in photos above in this thread. Given that...you can see the black plastic release clips adjacent to the child safety seat latches and therefore should be able to tell where to insert you screwdriver and released the back rest quickly.

It took me longer to write this thread than it would to take the seat out.

I think I will make a video.

Since it is midnight...I will resort to one last photograph on how to remove the seat.

This photograph (the best one i could find to demonstrate) DOOEEEEESSSSS NOOTTTTTTTTTTTT have the seat bench or the seat back rest shown. Everything has been removed but the structural bar itself. Here you can see where to insert the screw driver. You MUST press down on the back rest while pressing on the release clip SIMULTANEOUSLY. Use this photograph in conjunction with the instruction sheet (posted at my link "How to Remove the Seat MY WAY thread shown above).

 

Unless you are competing...they are...

 

I have one ten...and it will "slap" your head off. If I had the room (which I ""kinda do") I would go with two of my Sound Splinter 10i-Rl's. But there are plenty of subs out there for cheaper that sound just as good. As great example is the one 10" Image Dynamics IDQ-10 series (single voice coils or dual voice coil...your pick depending on your intentions with wiring). The IDQ is more of a budget sub than the IDMAX series...but let me tell you. My best friend has a single sealed enclosure with the IDQ-10-D4 (I bought this for him for $89) which is powered by only 100 watts......and WOW it sound unbelievable. It literally shakes the truck and sounds great. Proper tuning and xo's have taken his sub to the limit and its is nice! No....it is not the same as four 18s.

As far as wiring and such.....

Click here:
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/vol...oughsystem.swf

You will need Adobe Flash Player to view the above link. Adobe Flash is free ...and takes one second to intall....from here
http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/

(if you dont want adobe flash, and the above link does not work, here is the website that has the calculator
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm)

Plug in your systems specs and the calculator tool will do the rest.

The best, basic, car audio site in the world...to answer any question you can think of (so we dont have to).....



http://www.bcae1.com/

 

I agree with ARC, the IDQv.2s are excellent drivers. My friend has 2 in his chevy pickup and they are so damn clean. Kicker, Pioneer arent even in the same league. I have 2 JL W1s that are decent (MUCH better sounding than my other friend's Pioneer shallow), but the IDQv.2s poo all over the JLs. I'm replacing them soon though, going with 2 12s.

If you want a little more *bump* then also look at the IDv.3s. A little less expensive than the IDQv.2s and a little more output with a small SQ sacrifice.

 

they were about 100 each. the local shop matched internet price. this years model are diff than previous, they are totally diff than previous models. online car stereo, dealercostcaraudio

 

So basically, everyone agrees that Cap's aren't totally neccesary?

I wish it wasn't raining. I guess the clip you have to unlatch is further back than I thought it was, that's all.

I'm going to look at those IDv.3s anywhere online that sells them?