Wiring up amp, help. mSaLL, Low E and others?
yeah that ought gauge is hard stuff to bend. Kicker makes some stuff thats supposed to be pretty flexible...well, as flexible as 0 can get i supposed. It still looks really clean for what you did. Have you ever though about putting some spacers around the edge with another sheet of MDF with cutouts for the faces of the amps? I dont have a NBS, but I wouldnt think it would change the fit anymore then it is now since the top of the second sheet of mdf would be flush with the tops of the amps?
One of my original visions was to do a second layer of MDF wrapped in some material to show off just the amps and maybe the distro blocks. BUt that cannot happen because, while the MDF would be flush with the tops of the amps, the Audison amps have their inputs such that I am completely out of room!! The pesky seat support bars and latches are in the way too. I even had to move the Audison amps about one inch from the seat support bar because the power wire (4 ga.) would not by pass the release clip (which is welded to the seat support). See photo....this is a weird angle....I call it the worms eye view from the passengers side C pillar.

Notice that I have the black plastic release clip zip tied at the top. Also notice that the screw holding the black plastic release clip to the metal support bar is missing. The power wire was SO CLOSE to the support clip that I had to remove it....run the wire....then reinstall the black plastic release clip, almost by force. Not too much...just enough to nudge tit out of the way. THEN re-insert the missing screw.
Thats how tight this build was....literally millimeters!
Last edited by ARCuhTEK; Mar 28, 2009 at 05:49 PM.
You are correct. The black plastic piece is actually one piece but it is created in such a way that the portion of it that is closest to the front of the cab, is what you put the head of your screw driver onto....then push. This portion of the clip has an inverted hook at the top. As you push on it....it will release its grasp from the back of the seat. You will also need to simultaneously push down on the top of the seat to assist with this release.
Here is a slightly different view.
Here is a slightly different view.
Man, that back wall keeps getting more amazing! I wish the sun was out, so I could see what I was doing. When you take out the bottom of the back seat, do you have to take it off from the piece that goes into the truck. Like the literal piece that swivels the seat up and down, if that makes sense?
Its in four pieces. The back rest, the bench and the bench supports, which are attached to the truck floor and finally the structural support bar for the backrest. Yes you can take the bench out without removing the seat supports.
You take it out in this order:
1 Seatbelt tower and back rest
2.Bench seat
3.Structural back rest bar (as seen in the above photo)
4. Bench supports (attached to floor).
You take it out in this order:
1 Seatbelt tower and back rest
2.Bench seat
3.Structural back rest bar (as seen in the above photo)
4. Bench supports (attached to floor).
Its in four pieces. The back rest, the bench and the bench supports, which are attached to the truck floor and finally the structural support bar for the backrest. Yes you can take the bench out without removing the seat supports.
You take it out in this order:
1 Seatbelt tower and back rest
2.Bench seat
3.Structural back rest bar (as seen in the above photo)
4. Bench supports (attached to floor).
You take it out in this order:
1 Seatbelt tower and back rest
2.Bench seat
3.Structural back rest bar (as seen in the above photo)
4. Bench supports (attached to floor).
So, I can't take the bottom off without the top off first? What a PITA
I do believe you can take the bench seats out without removing anything else. The bench seats are not mounted to anything that must be removed first. I was just giving you the logical order of removal for all of it.
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Oh I thought you wanted to take it all out....ummm now I see your question. Let me think...
I do believe you can take the bench seats out without removing anything else. The bench seats are not mounted to anything that must be removed first. I was just giving you the logical order of removal for all of it.
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
I do believe you can take the bench seats out without removing anything else. The bench seats are not mounted to anything that must be removed first. I was just giving you the logical order of removal for all of it.
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
It is worth a try! It has been a while since I did it...and many tasks later. I cannot remember for certain.
I'll just undo every bolt I see, and see what gives. The backrest isn't connected to anything but that bar correct?
Well you have to take the seatbelt tower off first, the release the clips and the seat comes off by swinging the bottom outward and then up. The top of the back rest is connected to the rear wall with a couple of clamps. But they are just hook style...so when you slide the seat up, they pose no issue.
Last edited by ARCuhTEK; Mar 28, 2009 at 11:04 PM.
Well thank you. But the wires did not turn out according to my plan or vision. As you can see, I have overlapping power and audio cables. I have about 3/4" of space behind the amp board where the power wire (and ground) was supposed to run, but I forgot that the 1/0 ga. will not make tight turns, so drilling a hole through the MDF board just below my distribution blocks, and turning through the hole and then into the block, just would not work. I am not happy with that result, but I am not sure I have any choice. I am purchasing some shorter RCA cables so mine dont have to sit there all wound up near the red power wire!!
Thanks for the compliments.
Thanks for the compliments.
Well you have to take the seatbelt tower off first, the release the clips and the seat comes off by swinging the bottom outward and then up. The top of the back rest is connected to the rear wall with a couple of clamps. But they are just hook style...so when you slide the seat up, they pose no issue.
Im using two infinity amps, the 475a for my speakers and either a 1300 or 1600 for my sub (when the time comes). what sucks is that I want to mount both amps on the back wall in the little fold down doors that the 01-03 screws have. maybe do a little custom amp rack of some kind...I dunno. Anyway, there are blue LED's that light up on the top of the amps, so what im going to do is pull the top casing off, cut the wires an extend them so that i can flip the amp around so that both amps have their power inputs facing the inside of the truck and the RCA's and gains facing the outside of the truck. I think its going to make for a much cleaner look when I have to run wires...What I really want to do is make a custom rack so that all wires are hidden, maybe with some glass over the amps with a frosted logo on it or something cool. I kind of what to be able to show it off so that people can see that us big box boys have some skills too.
I know what you mean. My original vision was flush amps, custom covered, with glass over the amps and maybe some logos. Then I realized it was not possible, and combine that with the fact that no one will ever see it...I just decided to do what I could.
I just wanted to throw this out there. The service manual made reference to avoid driving the truck without the rear seat bolts in place. I presume the bolts are part of the cab mounting system.


