For now I'm just going to run my factory alternator. If I kill it in 6 months, fine, I'll get it rebuilt bigger and stronger... or else I'll just get a bigger, badder aftermarket alt.

But anyway, as for doing the Big 3 Upgrade {pos. cable from alt to batt, batt cable negative to chassis, and engine ground to chassis} what kind of cable connectors do I need ?
I know one guy over on a stereo forum I go to, was using 1/0 cable for this.... and I would do this too "IF" I thought it would make any measurable difference.... but I doubt if it would. I was thinking about stepping up to 4 gauge. What's the factory wiring ? 10 or 12 guage ?

Oh and BTW {I'm almost afraid to ask this} but my stock alternator does not have one of those stupid amperage limiters, does it ? Because I'm sure expecting / hoping for this thing to be putting out 100 plus amps on a regular basis ! Otherwise, I'd be looking at a different alternator from day 1, and however many more hundreds of dollars that would cost :-( Wouldn't surprise me though. I swear a high end stereo nowadays is a freaking bottomless money pit !

Anyone do the Big 3 on their F150 ?

Thanks much,
Fish

 

I have always been a fan of using the same size wire as you run for your amps. If that should be 1/0, use 1/0.

Yes, it does have an amperage limiter, its called the pulley size and RPM's.

It will not always have 100+A all the time, its not possible due to RPM's.

Yes, it is bottomless.

 

I was afraid you's say that :-) Yes, I'm using 1/0 for my amp. What the hey, it uses a 250 amp fuse !

About the limiter on the alt, that sounds good for our F150's.... But the reason I ask, is that apperently their are actually some new vehicles that include some high tech electronic sensors, which see the high amperage use, most especially, the high spikes, associated with high end car stereo, as "a problem" and they will force the alternator to cut way back, to just enough to run the car. Pretty stupid if you ask me. What, they didn't expect anybody to add a higher powered stereo or other electronics later ???

Oh hey.... with the connectors for 1/0 cable, do those need a special tool for attachment ? Or, are any solderable ? {because that would be easy}

Peace,
Fish

 

Well, the new bodies are PCM controlled... But it would only rev the truck a bit higher to meet draw demands...

Well, you do need to be able to crimp then solder the 1/0 connectors. ( soldering 1/0 via normal methods isnt really easy.... )

 

I like to call it the big 4 upgrade because you really should also upgrade the chassy to frame ground. It is located right behind the front passenger wheel well under the truck, only about an 8" run of 1/0 is needed (although it might be overkill, it cant hurt and wont cost much more at all).

Dont forget to fuse the alternator/pos. battery run.

 

low i believe he is refering to over amperage not under, as in this big 3 will allow all the amps to be transfered and the truck will shut down the alternator to reduce the amps

 

Hey AZ, lets say, "the vehicle".... because hopefully our F150's won't do that.

About the soldering.... Yea, I wouldn't use a solder iron. I've soldered fat cable several times, with a mini torch, and it always comes out so good, solid, and clean, that I actually enjoy doing this now :-)
Oh hey mSaLL Thank you. Will add that one to my list.

Peace,
Fish

 

Where is the location of the ground for a 2000 f150?
Should I use 4 gauge wire and does anyone have pictures of their own
grounding on our trucks?

 

Did you even read this thread?

 

he might be best off if he didn't read this thread. I posted this way back in Dec. of last year, and since then, I've learned a few things.

Yes. If I did it again, that's exactly what I'd use.

Peace,
Fish

 

If you are going to take the time to do the mod at least do it so you will never have to touch it again. What does it cost, an extra $10 to run 1/0?

 

have you priced 1/0 ? I bet with connectors and all, it might cost an extra $30 or $40.... But that's not so much the point.

1/0 gage is just so big and bulky, it's harder to use, and unless a person is ever planning to go with a 10Kw or bigger setup, with two or three high powered alternators, I don't think it would make any noticeable difference over 4 gage.

One thing though, I like how my mechanic left the factory wiring, and then added the 1/0 in addition to...

But yea' 4 gage would have been more.... no... "way more" than enough.

Peace,
Fish

PS, Again, as I have said before, the main power cable, especially if a medium to long run (mine is about 16 feet) should be 1/0 gage. No question about that.

 

You should always match your grounds to your power, so if you think you are running enough power you need 1/0 input, maybe you should think about running it on the output....

Nothing wrong with piggybacking the wires either. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance.

How do you know the 1/0 guage is so 'big and bulky' and 'harder to use'? It sounds like your mechanic did all the work.

 

I did, but all this electrical talk for a noob, doesn't even sound english to me..
and since this thread already had someone doing a big 3 upgrade, which I only plan to do the grounding... I Figured what the heck.
I just want to help find where's the grounding, I'm not sure if I found it already, but I want to perform this upgrade myself if possible to locate the right one.

 

Like zbornac said, match your power and ground sizes! Remember that you're working with a circuit here - there are 2 sides to it and the power flows through both of the sides. So what's the point of running a 1/0 positive when it's going to be flowing back through a 4ga ground?

I say if you're taking the time to do it, do it right. Sure 1/0 costs a little more, but if you're going to the trouble of buying 1/0 positive, main fuse, fused distro block, 4ga connections from the block, neg distro block with 4ga, etc, a couple extra bucks ain't gonna make that big of a dent.

For example using KnuKonceptz.com pricing on their website:
6' 1/0 + 6 1/0 ring terms = $30.90
6' 4ga + 6 4ga ring terms = $14.34

So about a $16 difference....