2010 fans and spal
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 2
From: Maine
I looked at the 2010 setup today at the dealership...not to impressed with the fans or the wiring nightmare..a quick look looks like a 6 prong plug goes to one fan and god knows where the other one gets its power from. Although the Rad is a different style it looks like the shroud would bolt on, however, looks like we might loose the upper shroud over the Rad. the one I looked at the upper Rad is exposed and now has a Rad cap on one side. I'm thinking I'll keep my Mark VIII w/the DC Controller for a while longer at this point. Looks like this unit could be a wiring nightmare though ?? Stupid me, almost ordered one though, would of had it on Thu. $200.00 
Last edited by sam1947; Jul 19, 2010 at 10:03 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 2
From: Maine
The 2010 setup works fine with a DC Controls fan controller. Each fan has a ground and a positive connection, just wire those in like you would with any other fan setup. There are not 6 prongs, just 2 for each fan. With a 50 amp DC you can wire them in parallel but connect the A/C input to the underdrive water pump connector instead of the A/C input connector. This way the both fans don't run at 100% when the A/C kicks in. They will both run at about 10-20% when connected to the water pump connector --- nice cold A/C without the loudness of both fans running 50% (when the temp probe hasn't reached the trigger point) or 100% (when it has).
The 2010 fan setup fits perfectly over the 2004-2008 radiator. The bottom of shroud has two connection points for the 2010 radiator. These will bump up against the transmission cooler line on the driver's side and does not line up with the passenger side connecting point on the 2004-2008 radiator. These two points need very minor cutting with a Dremal, but the top fittings are spot on. Then, secure the bottom using the exact same clips the Troyer setup has, or fabricate your own. An optional addition is running weather stripping down both sides of the 2010 shroud. The shroud has about a 1/2 centimeter gab between it and the radiator (it does on the 2010 F150 as well). I added the weather stripping for a perfect seal.
The 2010 fan/shroud is large and will require some moving around diagonally to get it in, but it does fit!
Do not use the 2010 fans with a simple on/off controller. At 100% duty cycle they move more air than any setup I've ever seen including the Mark III fan. At 100% they will be loud as hell. With a variable speed controller they are nice and quiet and I've never had them run more than about 50% speed even on the hottest days. The upper OEM radiator cover fits perfectly over the 2010 fan/shroud and the final install looks OEM. Go for it.
Put the temperature probe on the bottom outlet side of the radiator, I found it works best there.
The Troyer fans are great and worked well for me for over 2 years. I got a 2010 fan for free so decided to make a project of this and it was well worth it. Its nice to know I have an OEM quality fan setup now that looks stock (a big plus since I take my truck to shows).
The 2010 fan setup fits perfectly over the 2004-2008 radiator. The bottom of shroud has two connection points for the 2010 radiator. These will bump up against the transmission cooler line on the driver's side and does not line up with the passenger side connecting point on the 2004-2008 radiator. These two points need very minor cutting with a Dremal, but the top fittings are spot on. Then, secure the bottom using the exact same clips the Troyer setup has, or fabricate your own. An optional addition is running weather stripping down both sides of the 2010 shroud. The shroud has about a 1/2 centimeter gab between it and the radiator (it does on the 2010 F150 as well). I added the weather stripping for a perfect seal.
The 2010 fan/shroud is large and will require some moving around diagonally to get it in, but it does fit!
Do not use the 2010 fans with a simple on/off controller. At 100% duty cycle they move more air than any setup I've ever seen including the Mark III fan. At 100% they will be loud as hell. With a variable speed controller they are nice and quiet and I've never had them run more than about 50% speed even on the hottest days. The upper OEM radiator cover fits perfectly over the 2010 fan/shroud and the final install looks OEM. Go for it.
Put the temperature probe on the bottom outlet side of the radiator, I found it works best there.
The Troyer fans are great and worked well for me for over 2 years. I got a 2010 fan for free so decided to make a project of this and it was well worth it. Its nice to know I have an OEM quality fan setup now that looks stock (a big plus since I take my truck to shows).
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 2
From: Maine
I'm using the FK50P. Anything less than 50 amps is not going to control them both at 100% without blowing fuses or the older 35 amp controller. Previous to this I ran a 35 amp version of the DC Controller. The DC unit drove the main fan. The second fan was controlled with a Troyer controller (the better, new style). It was set to 10 degrees higher than the DC Controls fan and turned the 2nd fan on at 100% but only if the primary fan couldn't keep up (never happened). It also turned the 2nd fan on at 100% when the AC came on. I didn't like the sound at 100% so I purchased the newer 50 amp DC Controller. I don't believe DC Controls sells the 35 amp version any longer so you'll be fine ordering their new 50 amp controller and driving both fans on it.
FYI... use a large 50 amp fuse and heavy wiring. At 100% duty cycles it is possible to hit 50 amps (at startup only). I learned the hard way that 30 amps works great 95% of the time. However, if you park the truck and it heat soaks, and you start the engine with the A/C turned on its possible for both fans to immediately hit 100% duty cycle and blow a 30 amp fuse about half the time.
As to the AC wire....
When connected to the AC wire the fans will turn at 50% (both of them). Now that's if the fans haven't been triggered by heat at the temp sensor. If the temps are high enough to trigger the fans, the fans operate at 50% plus whatever speed is added by thermostatic control. Basically, if the fans would run at 10, 20, 30, or whatever percent because of engine heat, they will run at 50% plus that added percent.
Now, the controller has a jumper for underdrive pulleys which always keeps the fans at 10%. Instead of putting jumper on this connect it to the AC (use a 1 amp diode to clamp down on voltage surge when the A/C engages). With this setup the fans will run at 10% when the A/C kicks in plus whatever added speed the thermostatic control would add based on the temp probe. With this setup the fans run 40% less duty cycle with the A/C on.
I installed only the 2010 fans (with the integral shroud). No air damn unless you're talking about the one in front of the radiator which stays in place. The shroud covers the 2004-2008 radiator completely (100% of it with no overlap).
You secure the fans on the bottom with 2 clips like Troyers, shaped like this:
|
|
| _______
| |
| |
|_|
The horizontal part of the clip should have a hole drilled through it large enough to put a bolt through it. Secure the bolt to the radiator shroud. I can get photos tomorrow if you want. I made my clips from 1/2 inch wide flat metal bar I bought I ACE hardware for about $5 (I still have 4 feet of the bar left). I would have used the Troyer clips but I sold those when I sold my Troyer fan kit so I duplicated them myself.
You don't have to connect to the underdrive pulley jumper. Its purely optional. The A/C connection will work fine with the normal A/C connection... just a matter of whether you want to have a little extra noise. At 100% duty cycle (rare) the fans can be heard inside the cab with the windows up and the A/C fan turned up to max if that gives you an indication of how loud they get. Under normal operation when they are just barely turning you can't really hear them.
I've considered selling kits since I already know how and where to cut the 2010 fan shroud, have pictures of my setup, wrote down all my install procedures and I have a wholesale account with Ford so I can actually resell a kit for less than most people can buy them (even online). I don't think you're going to find any aftermarket fan rated to last as long as the Ford OEM fans do (they are rated for the life of the vehicle). The Ford fan setup is much stouter, with large blades which don't flex unlike the aftermarket fans plus the shroud gives better cooling with less operation time since it draws air through 100% of the radiator instead of just the portion covered by aftermarket fans. Plus the Ford fans pull more air than any aftermarket fan could ever hope to pull. Based purely on my estimates (feeling the hot air flow with my hands) I'd say a single OEM fan pulls as much air at 100% as two Troyer fans do at 100%.
FYI... use a large 50 amp fuse and heavy wiring. At 100% duty cycles it is possible to hit 50 amps (at startup only). I learned the hard way that 30 amps works great 95% of the time. However, if you park the truck and it heat soaks, and you start the engine with the A/C turned on its possible for both fans to immediately hit 100% duty cycle and blow a 30 amp fuse about half the time.
As to the AC wire....
When connected to the AC wire the fans will turn at 50% (both of them). Now that's if the fans haven't been triggered by heat at the temp sensor. If the temps are high enough to trigger the fans, the fans operate at 50% plus whatever speed is added by thermostatic control. Basically, if the fans would run at 10, 20, 30, or whatever percent because of engine heat, they will run at 50% plus that added percent.
Now, the controller has a jumper for underdrive pulleys which always keeps the fans at 10%. Instead of putting jumper on this connect it to the AC (use a 1 amp diode to clamp down on voltage surge when the A/C engages). With this setup the fans will run at 10% when the A/C kicks in plus whatever added speed the thermostatic control would add based on the temp probe. With this setup the fans run 40% less duty cycle with the A/C on.
I installed only the 2010 fans (with the integral shroud). No air damn unless you're talking about the one in front of the radiator which stays in place. The shroud covers the 2004-2008 radiator completely (100% of it with no overlap).
You secure the fans on the bottom with 2 clips like Troyers, shaped like this:
|
|
| _______
| |
| |
|_|
The horizontal part of the clip should have a hole drilled through it large enough to put a bolt through it. Secure the bolt to the radiator shroud. I can get photos tomorrow if you want. I made my clips from 1/2 inch wide flat metal bar I bought I ACE hardware for about $5 (I still have 4 feet of the bar left). I would have used the Troyer clips but I sold those when I sold my Troyer fan kit so I duplicated them myself.
You don't have to connect to the underdrive pulley jumper. Its purely optional. The A/C connection will work fine with the normal A/C connection... just a matter of whether you want to have a little extra noise. At 100% duty cycle (rare) the fans can be heard inside the cab with the windows up and the A/C fan turned up to max if that gives you an indication of how loud they get. Under normal operation when they are just barely turning you can't really hear them.
I've considered selling kits since I already know how and where to cut the 2010 fan shroud, have pictures of my setup, wrote down all my install procedures and I have a wholesale account with Ford so I can actually resell a kit for less than most people can buy them (even online). I don't think you're going to find any aftermarket fan rated to last as long as the Ford OEM fans do (they are rated for the life of the vehicle). The Ford fan setup is much stouter, with large blades which don't flex unlike the aftermarket fans plus the shroud gives better cooling with less operation time since it draws air through 100% of the radiator instead of just the portion covered by aftermarket fans. Plus the Ford fans pull more air than any aftermarket fan could ever hope to pull. Based purely on my estimates (feeling the hot air flow with my hands) I'd say a single OEM fan pulls as much air at 100% as two Troyer fans do at 100%.
. Also I take it you are not using the fuseable link that comes with the controller ? I already have the Troyer fan setup with the clamps as the crap up here on the Maine roads was rapidly destroying the fan motors from 'splash-up' from the rear, so I am all set there. Guess I'll take a bite out of this and give it a try, any more info on the cutting or the connections would be very much appreciated, you can PM me if you want THANKS AGAIN !!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 2
From: Maine
I'll have to take a look at the truck in the morning to let you know on the AC part. As to the fuseable link, I still have that but I don't like the idea of relying on it. I'd rather have a replaceable fuse in line blow (it will before the link does) than the link because fuses are quick to replace whereas the link requires cutting the wiring. I'd hate to have some unforeseen event blow the link in the middle of nowhere. With the fuse, I just carry a couple of spare fuses in the ashtray. My setup has as fuseable link and a fuse. The fuse is a fast blow, the fuseable link is a slow blow.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 2
From: Maine
I'll have to take a look at the truck in the morning to let you know on the AC part. As to the fuseable link, I still have that but I don't like the idea of relying on it. I'd rather have a replaceable fuse in line blow (it will before the link does) than the link because fuses are quick to replace whereas the link requires cutting the wiring. I'd hate to have some unforeseen event blow the link in the middle of nowhere. With the fuse, I just carry a couple of spare fuses in the ashtray. My setup has as fuseable link and a fuse. The fuse is a fast blow, the fuseable link is a slow blow.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 2
From: Maine
I'll have to wait until Tuesday, or Wednesday depending on when I get back. On a road trip. You can connect the normal way the DC Control instructions say until then. As to the 1 amp diode, I believe Ford Muscle has an online article explaining it. I also put clamp down diodes on the fan lines to keep current from coming back into the controller at high speeds when the wind blows the fan and generates current. They explain that as well.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 0
From: Olive Branch, MS
I've considered selling kits since I already know how and where to cut the 2010 fan shroud, have pictures of my setup, wrote down all my install procedures and I have a wholesale account with Ford so I can actually resell a kit for less than most people can buy them (even online).
I still have not pulled the trigger on the Mark VIII set up I had been talking about. Now I am curious about these. If you think you want to try to put a kit together and sell shoot me a PM and let me know.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 646
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From: Las Vegas
I am too impatient to go the mark viii/dc controls route but may have to just wait the 4 weeks to get the controller
