My fan controllers bit the dust shortly after installing my fans years ago. I want to install new controller.

I have the Troyer fan kit, wanting to use the Delta Current controler, but not sure which one to use.

Can anyone make a recomendation?

Thanks

 

Try Troyer again. He is using a new ground switched controller.

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Troyer should replace your controller for free. Since he has know of the problem for years.

Personally I would go with either the Delta controller or the Flex-a-lite controller.

 

The Troyer eFan kit comes with a 1 year warranty.. granted he knew there were problems, but unless you come back within that first year, he has no obligation to exchange/fix for free.

Regardless, the new eFan controller is only about 9 months new, so maybe it would be worth look at his controllers again. If you explain that you had the previous controllers, maybe they would be willing to cut the price for you a bit.

 

If you're looking for more options;

Take a look at the Spal Programmable Fan Controller (PWM-V3) . I bought mine from a group in California, a1electric.com. It does have to have an additional Fan Relay Harness(FRH) if you have double 16's.

The tech guys were also very helpful. Good luck.

 

i have a Hayden-Imperial. very nice controller

 

I use the FK-50P love the results. You can get the 35 amp version, but I feel you're pushing it. I've had a 30 amp fuse on the 50 amp unit blow when both Troyer fans are running at 100%, so the 35 amp unit might be pushing it. With a 40 amp fuse on the 50 amp unit I've had no problems. My Troyer controllers are going to be used for intercooler and tranny cooler fans so they aren't going to waste. I love the level of control the DC unit gives. Because of the BTUs these engines put out, I recommend you set the fans to come on about 5 degrees before the thermostat "on temp." If you run a 180 stat, set it around 175, 187 for a 192 thermostat, etc.

Runs quieter because the fans only run at the speed needed. Downside is AC wasn't quite as cold as the Troyer setup (though still colder than stock). I found a way around that, I put a 10K pot on the underdrive pulley jump and have it wired in the cab. Its an on-off rotary switch. DC Controls recommended this setup to me. During normal driving I leave it turned off. If I'm getting into the throttle I a lot I turn it on and can dial the fans from 10-50% constant operation to keep the intercooler temps down (it runs 51-100% when the thermostat opens and triggers the temp probe).

Hayden, Derale, Troyer, etc., all those relay controllers basically work exactly the same, and the circuit diagrams look identical --- the difference is the quality of the components used. Nothing wrong with that style controller, but in the long run a full on/off unit just wasn't for me... too much noise so I'm very happy with the DC unit. YMMV

 

Also... one of the things you can do to increase the reliability of any fan controller setup is the addition of 3 clamp down diodes. You put one on each fan, and one on the A/C relay line to the controller. This prevents a voltage spike from the AC relay from hitting the controller, and also prevents power generated from wind turning the fans from being fed into the controllers. Three diodes will run you about $3-$4 at Radio Shack (I can get the part number if needed). Although the controllers have clamp down diodes internally, they are in a package that can get very hot, and the reliability can go down with heat, and AFAIK they only use one diode per controller. In addition to the heat benefits, you can package much larger diodes externally. Would you rather have a $1 diode blow (which shouldn't happen with the correct diode) or a $45 controller?

I ran my Troyer controllers, and now the DC unit, with clamp down diodes... highly recommended.

 

I've been using the Spal with the FRH for two years, and like it.